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It's official now! Another "LAWL WHAT SHUD MY FIRST BIKE BE?!?!" THREAD

9K views 61 replies 32 participants last post by  Joem 
#1 ·
Went to the DMV today and got my license updated to Class M.

So, now I'm seriously looking at getting a bike. Suggestions, recommendations, leads, etc.

Ideally I'd like to keep costs under 4k.

Obviously I want a sportbike of some sort.

Thnaks in advance!
 
#2 ·
um ok

welcome and i get a 250 ....get a cheap one and spend the rest on gear.
 
#12 ·
08/09 Ninja 250's can be had in the $3K range easy. Check craigslist plus here.

You can save money by going a little older, but they're fugly in my opinion.
 
#13 ·
Tell the group what you're planning on doing with this bike. We talked at CIP a few weeks back and you mentioned that you'll be putting a lot of miles on driving around the area for work, mostly interstate, correct? In all honesty, you'll get annoyed with a 250 within a few weeks riding around at 8K rpms in 5th looking for another gear. If you can force yourself to be smart with a throttle, then look at something bigger than a 250, maybe a 500, 650 or a 600 if you feel comfortable. I started on a 600 myself and I was fine, just a matter of keeping yourself aware of what that right grip can do.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Eventually I'll be doing a lot of interstate traveling with it. First and foremost I want to build the skills necessary to operate a bike in traffic.

I've found that operating a bike is easy, I used my bosses old R6 in an empty parking lot without doing anything to cause worry to him or myself. (If nothing else because I was overly cautious.)

Operating a bike in traffic is merely an issue of confidence, which I don't have yet. If I stick with a 250cc for the summer to gain that confidence, so be it. But I would be willing to say that if you stick me on a closed course, I wouldn't have an issue operating bikes more powerful than I've used before.

So, any leads on cheap 250s?
 
#15 ·
My vote goes toward an older bike that needs a battery and carb service.Maybe some tires and such.

With this plan you can find a bike that will have much lower insurance (big difference)and your first bike will have a minimum buy in price that will let you decide whether or not you like riding on these Chicago streets with all the cagers.

Truth is riding on the street is not for everyone.
 
#16 ·
im sure you already kno the answer to your own question but i dig the new rider enthusiasm so....

im not going to recommend anything specific. imo a 250 is a turd. but some people need to ride a turd. when i was a newbie i skipped the kiddie pool and went strait to the deep end. just be honest with yourself. if you are a spastic idiot or if you are a responsible adult person who stays calm, can respect your machine, and understand the serious dangers associated with the sport. also get insurance quotes ahead of time. being a young rider u may be shocked at the rates and that may be the deciding factor of what u can afford.

be safe, always follow the speed limit and obey the rules of the road :)
 
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#17 ·
Gear wise I would look at some hockey shin/knee guards.:lmao: I hear there is a couple people sporting that look on this board due to its trendy look
 
#29 ·
I'll take back my recommendation for a 250 + gear (only since you say you want to {even eventually} do interstate traveling with it.... {kind of}

I'll say this.. a 250 can travel the interstate... but you won't be able to do the standard sport-bike weaving in out of and passing willy-nilly traffic with it. That can be seen as both a good thing and a bad thing. The good thing is it can keep you in check to know what your bike can and can not do... even if it's considered 'underpowered' to do what normal sport bikes can do on the interstate. Once you merge and find your groove, you are where you are on that type of road. It's the surface streets that make/break you. How many times have you heard about a motorcycle fatality on the interstate versus a 'surface street' ? Most are surface streets. Sad fact of life. Reaction time is KEY and so is 'closing speed'. It's not 'uncool' to drive like grandma on a bike when you are learning.... learning that cages do not look out for you and you will encounter many times when you need to stop quickly or have incredible nimble maneuverability. You CAN do that on a 250 especially since you can not be going 80+ MPH off from a light in 5 seconds. If you feel you think you need to jump up into the 500+cc range right out of the gate, keep in mind that you are venturing into the territory that can take you to 'excessive speeds' in a matter of a few seconds... and when the shit hits the fan, would you want to be going slower or faster when a potential impact arrives?
 
#30 ·
From a cost standpoint. I'm a 19 year old male getting a bike.

Part of the goal in this would be to reduce having to spend $150/week in gas (in my fucking Ford Focus that gets 30mpg net average). I know that usually insurance on a bike in cheaper than on a car, but realistically what could I expect to pay for insurance for a 600cc given my age bracket? (No prior tickets or accidents)
 
#37 ·
thanks but i dont need to take advise from a spode. ive tried to help u but u are too ignorant and lazy. i dont care how much u drive and actually im going to stop right there because u are sucking the life force out of my soul with ur nitwittedness
 
#39 ·
c'mon guys you need to lighten the fuck up.... you guys were once noobs before looking for advice....now you guys are expert cockdouchebagsuckers. you guys need to suck a big dick and chill.

hey, new guy, if you need help or any advice on riding here, feel free to use the info in my signature to get ahold of me directly. id be more than happy to help ya out.

whats your name and sign? are you a scorpio?.....you got picts?...lol!


there, i had to get that off my tittie....
 
#42 ·
oh i see how it is vern. from now on im wearing a parka over my leathers to hide my breasts! :lmao:


what does people spouting off random numbers at this dude help him any? insurance rates are completly unique and individual. so how does me telling him that the cheapest rates i got when i was his age was over $3000 w/com and coll?? and that varied to 5 or even 6K with other companies! he said he drives a car so im guessing he has auto insurance?? why not call ur company and say hey im thinking off buying a fucking bike! im so stoked!! can u quote my fucking ass?!?! tell me how much it would be for a girls bike, a semi girls bike, a 600, and a real bike?? comp collision, different ded? 100k liablity, 200k??

fucking agent goes to town and gives u something to work with not a bunch of wothless hearsay. shit would have taken a 5 min phone call. i was younger than him when i started riding. this is not hard. this is all comon sense it has nothing to do with riding experience. its just a phone call.

if this kid had a bike and needed questions answered im in the nw burbs too. id have no problem meeting up and answering questions about riding and anything else related to riding to the best of my ability till he is blue in the face.
 
#43 ·
Steve Your right.

If insurance cost is an issue CALL for the facts.

My bet is any 80's 90's UJM will be his best bet.
 
#44 ·
First off - I believe a 250 gets around 74mpg, so you aren't gonna beat that for lowest cost for gas.

For interstate, well, if it is windy, you are gonna get blown around a little in traffic, not fun.

For insurance, and older Katana 600 is a low cost bike, has enough weight behind it to be fine on the interstate, and is a relatively docile bike, so hard to hurt yourself with the mellow throttle it has. PLENTY of get up and go for a noob.

I'd get REAL quotes, and go from there. You are young, inexperienced and single. Spend GOOD money on GOOD gear and wear it all the time.

Rule #1 - If you get on a motorcycle, you will fall down (crash)
Rule #2 - Even if you have already crashed, refer to rule #1

Good luck and be safe out there.
 
#47 ·
It's the surface streets that make/break you. How many times have you heard about a motorcycle fatality on the interstate versus a 'surface street' ? Most are surface streets. Sad fact of life.
This ^

And

Get a bike that is easy to work on yourself. I have a 650cc KLR that is a single cylinder, gets 50mpg mixed city/interstate and is a breeze to work on.

One of the best parts of owning a bike is working on it yourself... that is what truely makes it "yours". This past weekend I spent 8 hours taking apart my BMW and doing a 12k maintenance on it, putting in a HID, and swapping dash bulbs for LEDs. A KLR (or similar) can be stripped in about 20 min to nothing so keep that in mind.

Also consider riding position. For me I like upright "chair" position when riding long distances. YMMV but sitting in a crotch-rocket "tuck" for an hour is not enjoyable for me so make sure the bike "fits" your size and your riding style.

Finally get a light bike, nothing over 650 imo. A 650 will give you good speed on the highway and light enough to dodge cars on the street. It also will not pucker your asshole if you hamfist the throttle. To give you perspective I have a K1200GT that i ride once a week and the KLR 650 I ride every day.

Also don't buy German/Italian unless you either love doing your own work or you got cash. A brake flush on my K1200 cost me $450 and the only thing I have done in the KLR is change oil, adjust/lube chain.

Finally buy good gear. Get a full-faced helmet (DOT+Snell) HJC is a good affordable brand (I'm partial to Shoei myself), a real riding jacket, over ankle shoes (ankles are complex things, when they go they never heal right), and some riding pants (which are nice to have even if you don't plan on using them often).

Above all take it easy and get used to riding defensively, unlike car accidents: with a motorcycle you always lose.

Peas,

Spork
 
#51 ·
If you can control your right hand, I wouldn't see a problem with getting something that you probably wanted in the 1st place. Just go in with the understanding that a bigger bike is probably going to be more to handle than a smaller one, but can ultimately be controlled if you use your judgement.

That being said, for the type of riding you plan to do, get something with bars instead of clip ons (an older FZ6/FZ1 or a 1st or 2nd gen b12 came to mind 1st after reading your posts)

Just an opinion of course.
 
#52 ·
FYI a 600 Katana is probably one of the hardest bikes to work on short of a honda,I have worked at more than one suzuki dealer and wouldnt own one if it were free, if you get one in really good condition it wont be cheap and a cheap one , especially an older one , is usually a shit bike !!!!! usually owned by poor folk who do no maintenance,, i have seen more clapped out katanas than i can tell you about, its a joe dirt bike for sure, the 87 monte carlo of bikes, show the world you have some intellegence and buy a SV650 for the same $$$
 
#53 ·
FYI a 600 Katana is probably one of the hardest bikes to work on short of a honda,I have worked at more than one suzuki dealer and wouldnt own one if it were free, if you get one in really good condition it wont be cheap and a cheap one , especially an older one , is usually a shit bike !!!!! usually owned by poor folk who do no maintenance,, i have seen more clapped out katanas than i can tell you about, its a joe dirt bike for sure, the 87 monte carlo of bikes, show the world you have some intellegence and buy a SV650 for the same $$$
You obviously never owned a BMW
 
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