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Old 09-19-2009, 11:39 AM   #1
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How Really do you test a Rectifier/Stator

Hello,

If any of you remember back when I had my 01 CBR F4i I had posted this:

http://www.chicagolandsportbikes.com...tteries+stator

Turns out my battery was old and bunk which saved me from really having to dig into my bike. Well now I have an 07 675 and with it, a real problem beyond my skills...so far. That's where I appeal to you CLSB pros:

I noticed when riding the bike on Tuesday that the electrical juice was getting lower and lower as I was riding it. Eventually it died out as the engine putt putted to a stop at a light. When riding it seemed to just drain the battery slowly. So...

I pushed it home, over night I charged my battery. 12.95v tested with multimeter at DCV setting 20
I put it in the bike, and turned on the ignition and I had 12.09v steady
I started the bike up, and I got 11.85v. I revved it to 5000rpm, and it stayed at 11.8v steady. It did not rise to around to 14v as planned.

I turned off the bike, and battery started rising back up to 12.45v. I think for the most part I can conclude it isn't the battery. It's in decent shape.

So this could mean 1 of 2 things based on what I do know:
1) My stator is bad
2) My R/R is bad.

I'm betting my money on the R/R, as this bike is in fairly new condition (about 6k miles on it now)

So after all that. Here are my questions which the internet has largely failed me on answering:

1) On the Triumph 675, one must remove the fuel tank to get to the wiring for the R/R. This means the bike cannot be started up and idled. Does the bike have to be "on" when testing the rectifier plugs? Does the engine have to be idling while testing the R/R? It may seem stupid, but I have no clue because it's a detail no one ever clarifies in their guides as they forget it.

2) What the hell does the multimeter have to be set at to actually test the R/R? There are so many settings. I'm looking for detail as in "it has to be set to ACV xyz number setting", or something like that.

3) I opened it up and I have a 4 pin plug from the R/R and a 3 pin plug from the R/R. What the shit is what here? Is one input one output? The Triumph manual has nothing to clarify the plugs themselves except archane and impossible to understand wiring diagrams

4) When I finally figure out the multimeter settings, should the bike be on or off, etc. What are the tests for the stator? What do those plugs look like? Is there color coding to them? Have I already encountered them and I just don't know it yet? The manual is unclear on this so far as I can tell.

If you can help me, (and hopefully it helps others in the future) that'd be great, because as I understand it, the R/R on this year of this bike poops out all the time, but I want to make sure I know if that's the case or not.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-19-2009, 12:16 PM   #2
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I just went through all this on my Honda. Your Trumpet may be somewhat different but here's how I diagnosed my issue.

Voltage at battery with bike off was 12.6 with an overnight charge. Voltage at battery with bike running at idle was 11.82. It would climb slightly to 11.9 at 5k rpm.

On my bike, the regulator/rectifier can fail open or closed. To determine my stator was really dead, the next move was to measure AC voltage at the 3 pin connector coming from the stator. On my bike, it's a 3 phase, 3 pin plug, so measuring AC output across any 2 connectors would tell me what's up. AC voltage on my bike should be around 20 volts at idle & closer to 60 volts at higher rpms. I had zero & my stator was dead.

If you know you have output at the stator, but low voltage at the battery, it's got to be the reg/rect or a bad connection.
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Old 09-19-2009, 12:47 PM   #3
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On the Ducati, the plug with the yellow wires are from the stator, I had 3 wires (3 phases) (the 4 wire s/b RR output - 2 red 2 green), and they should all have the same reading (while running) of between 40 - 50 V AC (note I said AC, not DC). If they do not have the same reading, probably a bad stator.

If the same, I would just replace the RR, I went thru the same thing this week, and I was convinced it was the RR, but was talked into testing the stator, should have gone with my gut, I always look for the easy fix first.

As soon as I plugged in the new RR and fired the bike, I was at 13.2 v (DC) at idle and 14.2 at 2,500. Bike fixed.

The multi meter has to be on AC with a range of up to 60 V (opr higher) for the stator

The mulit meter has to be set to DC 20V range for the Battery - RR.
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Last edited by tripod; 09-19-2009 at 12:50 PM..
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Old 09-19-2009, 01:52 PM   #4
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So from what I gather the bike has to be running (engine idle) in order to test this? How do I manage to run the thing if the fuel take has to be taken off to get to it...
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Old 09-19-2009, 02:08 PM   #5
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alternative test for stator - engine NOT running

http://cbrforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92758

"To check the stator, take your multimeter, set it to ohms. Measure across all 3 leads of the stator. measure 1and2, 2and3, 1and3. They should all measure the same. It should be somewhere around .6 or .7 ohms. It may be different on that bike, but they should all be the same. If you have one or two of them out from the other, then the stator is probably bad. If they all measure good, your stator is fine and look into replacing the rectifier."
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Old 09-19-2009, 02:15 PM   #6
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Actually - here is a very good write up

http://www.sportbikez.net/forum/f8/h...-system-11591/

Personally, I would just change out the RR and be donw with it.
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Old 09-22-2009, 04:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tripod View Post
"To check the stator, take your multimeter, set it to ohms. Measure across all 3 leads of the stator. measure 1and2, 2and3, 1and3. They should all measure the same. It should be somewhere around .6 or .7 ohms. It may be different on that bike, but they should all be the same. If you have one or two of them out from the other, then the stator is probably bad. If they all measure good, your stator is fine and look into replacing the rectifier."
OK as far as it goes. From the sound of it, you probably have zero output from the charging system, and this test should catch anything dramatic in the stator that could cause that.

But, in general, it's no substitute for a running test.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:20 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by GreenDraggin' View Post
So from what I gather the bike has to be running (engine idle) in order to test this? How do I manage to run the thing if the fuel take has to be taken off to get to it...
You can just move the fuel tank off to the side, prop it up on a high chair or something.
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:14 PM   #9
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It was the R/R btw. Replaced, fixed. Win! The damn thing was a pain in the ass to screw and unscrew, but managed it with the fingers.

Thanks for the guides and help
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:17 PM   #10
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this is a noob question....but does a regulator rectifier generate heat. im asking because i was considering a different mount area...
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:20 PM   #11
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:30 PM   #12
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The different mount area is a good idea. Not sure for your bike, but the R/R get's hit with a lot of heat from where it is placed on the Daytona currently. Over time that heat more or less fries it into crapland.

There is an awesome post (which I am going to do now that I know a bit more about this replacement history crap on the Daytona, when I have the time/materials/cash)
here which explains how to do a custom modification. Meant for triumph, but talks about other bike options as well:

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html
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Old 10-01-2009, 03:11 PM   #13
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it was the r/r btw.
shock of the century!
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nouseforaname View Post
this is a noob question....but does a regulator rectifier generate heat. im asking because i was considering a different mount area...
Yes.
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