Misfire on No. 4 Cylinder - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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Misfire on No. 4 Cylinder

I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota SLT.

Engine was running rough and the light came on. Code was 0304 which means misfire on No. 4 cylinder.

Changed the ignition pack and reset the code. 300 miles later, light came back on, same code.

Changed the plug and reset the code. 600+ miles later, light came back on, same code.

Swapped the plug with the plug in No. 6. Reset the code. Still running rough, light came back on, same code.

I could swap the ignition pack with No. 6, but I think I will get the same result.

Now what? Should I swap the ignition pack with No. 6 and see if the code changes to 0306? Or move on to the next phase?

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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 12:42 AM
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PM Moparboyy. That's probably your best bet.

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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 01:01 AM
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what did the plug look like when you pulled it out of #4?

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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 02:22 AM
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When mine did that, same code, ended up being the crankshaft sensor being bad. Dodges are wonderfull things arent they?

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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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what did the plug look like when you pulled it out of #4?
normal I guess.

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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 08:04 AM
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rob was yours an intermittent thing?

i get this same problem on my 98, 3.9l but on cylinder 3, ive swapped injectors around, replaced the dist cap rotor and wires and its stayed intermittent, i suspected a valve issue for a while but that should be a consistent problem

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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 09:01 AM
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this would help a lot more if we knew what engine you were talking about.

they only offered like 6 different engines in a Dakota;

5.2
5.9
3.6
3.7
4.7
2.5

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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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this would help a lot more if we knew what engine you were talking about.
4.7

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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 11:03 AM
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i would try swapping the injector over to another cylinder and see if the missfire moves. if it does not you really have only 2 things left;

-internal engine failure
-intermittent wiring connection

you can run a compression test and a leakdown test to confirm engine integrity.

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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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i would try swapping the injector over to another cylinder and see if the missfire moves. if it does not you really have only 2 things left;

-internal engine failure
-intermittent wiring connection

you can run a compression test and a leakdown test to confirm engine integrity.
The injector is not the same as the ignition pack that sits on top of the plug, correct?

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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 11:16 AM
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The injector is not the same as the ignition pack that sits on top of the plug, correct?
correct, i'm talking the fuel injector. i had one go bad on my 2000 dakota 4.7 but it thru a code for injector circuit.

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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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correct, i'm talking the fuel injector. i had one go bad on my 2000 dakota 4.7 but it thru a code for injector circuit.
Ok, cool. I will try that.

Can I also take the wiring plug for the ignition pack on No. 6 and swap it with number 4? Or is that a bad idea?

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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 11:50 AM
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no you can't swap wiring.

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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 11:59 AM
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you CAN. if you want the #4 cylinder to fire when the # 6 should, and visa versa. might make for an interesting conversation with whomever rebuilds it. .

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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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you CAN. if you want the #4 cylinder to fire when the # 6 should, and visa versa. might make for an interesting conversation with whomever rebuilds it. .
Yeah, that's what I was thinking and that's why I asked.

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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 12:46 PM
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rob was yours an intermittent thing?

i get this same problem on my 98, 3.9l but on cylinder 3, ive swapped injectors around, replaced the dist cap rotor and wires and its stayed intermittent, i suspected a valve issue for a while but that should be a consistent problem
Was intermittant when it happened. Then got progressively worse. Ironically the dodge dealer we have here kept telling me nothing was wrong. Uh then why is the CEL on? God these people were retarded. Took it to a madison dealer and they found the problem in 15 min. Just had to wait for the part to come in.

Problem I have now is when its cold outside, it will surge and buck for about 10 min then clear. Happens when its below 45 degrees. Heard that the intake manifold gasket could be the problem, but dunno.

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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 12:54 PM
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Was intermittant when it happened. Then got progressively worse. Ironically the dodge dealer we have here kept telling me nothing was wrong. Uh then why is the CEL on? God these people were retarded. Took it to a madison dealer and they found the problem in 15 min. Just had to wait for the part to come in.

Problem I have now is when its cold outside, it will surge and buck for about 10 min then clear. Happens when its below 45 degrees. Heard that the intake manifold gasket could be the problem, but dunno.
ahh thanks,

looked up the part on autozone for its price and they had a little blurb about it

•When not replaced, vehicle could experience no- or hard start, long crank time, misfire, lack of power, excessive hydrocarbons in oil, spark plug fouling, catalytic converter failure, poor fuel economy, CEL/MIL illumination or intermittent shutdown


sounds like a lot of what i get from my dakota

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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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How difficult is it to replace that sensor?

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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 12:57 PM
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those crankshaft sensors can be magnetic (there are 2 different types and I don't know what crystler uses/used). It may very well be bad, but you could try pulling it and cleaning it first. Or check the trigger wheel for any damage or rust.

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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 01:00 PM
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How difficult is it to replace that sensor?
it doesnt look bad from the pics on autozone..... that all depends on where dodge put it though

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...U3027/image/4/


im gonna crawl under the truck tonight to look at steering stuff, ill look for the sensor too.. yay

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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 01:42 PM
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Its a bit in an awkward spot on 3.9L. You can get it out, but you will probably be cussing quite a bit. Pass side on the bellhousing upper at an angle (manual). Dunno if the automatic is in the same spot.

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Its a bit in an awkward spot on 3.9L. You can get it out, but you will probably be cussing quite a bit. Pass side on the bellhousing upper at an angle (manual). Dunno if the automatic is in the same spot.
awwww shit

fuck it... ill live with the shity preformance

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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 01:52 PM
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on the 4.7 its easy on the side of the block, however, since its right on the side, it likes to rust and seize into the block.

i'm gonna point out that i have been with Chrysler since before the 4.7 has come out. i have never seen a single cylinder missfire from a crank sensor problem. you would normally get a multi or many cylinders missfiring not just the same cylinder over and over.

ya you could have a cracked tone wheel too, but again, never seen it on a 4.7. 3.8 or 3.3 minivan, sure all the time.

the 4.7 does have valve issues where the valve seat actualy starts to pit and the valve is not sealing very well, causing a missfire, the engine will not rough like its a dead cylinder, it will just have a slight shake that you barely notice, but the computer picks it up.

thats why i suggested the leakdown and compression test. before blowing your hard earned money on shitty autozone sensors.

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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by YZFRob View Post
Its a bit in an awkward spot on 3.9L. You can get it out, but you will probably be cussing quite a bit. Pass side on the bellhousing upper at an angle (manual). Dunno if the automatic is in the same spot.
same on the automatic.

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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparBoyy View Post
on the 4.7 its easy on the side of the block, however, since its right on the side, it likes to rust and seize into the block.

i'm gonna point out that i have been with Chrysler since before the 4.7 has come out. i have never seen a single cylinder missfire from a crank sensor problem. you would normally get a multi or many cylinders missfiring not just the same cylinder over and over.

ya you could have a cracked tone wheel too, but again, never seen it on a 4.7. 3.8 or 3.3 minivan, sure all the time.

the 4.7 does have valve issues where the valve seat actualy starts to pit and the valve is not sealing very well, causing a missfire, the engine will not rough like its a dead cylinder, it will just have a slight shake that you barely notice, but the computer picks it up.

thats why i suggested the leakdown and compression test. before blowing your hard earned money on shitty autozone sensors.
its done this for years adn ive lived with it so far, i wasnt planning on running out and getting a sensor anytime soon, it started shortly after the engine was replaced with a remanufactured one...the original spun a bearing... ive always had my doubts as to wether the engine was actually replaced or if the shop pulled something shady since the engine has never had the power it used to...

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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
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since the engine has never had the power it used to...
the 3.9 has power?

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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 03:41 PM
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shady? they either replaced the engine or rebuilt the bottom end.

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the 4.7 does have valve issues where the valve seat actualy starts to pit and the valve is not sealing very well, causing a missfire, the engine will not rough like its a dead cylinder, it will just have a slight shake that you barely notice, but the computer picks it up.

thats why i suggested the leakdown and compression test. before blowing your hard earned money on shitty autozone sensors.
The engine runs very rough and it is totally obvious. When it happened the first time, we didn't see a spark on No. 4 so that is why we changed the ignition pack. Truck ran smooth immediately. The 2nd time it happened (over 300 miles later) I changed the plug and it ran smooth immediately. When it happened again after 600+ miles, I knew exactly what it was and just waited about 20 mins for the code to show up to confirm it was the same cylinder.

I will try the injector and if the problem does not move to No. 6 I will drop it off at my local shop.

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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
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the 3.9 has power?
no not really but it was better on the first motor

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shady? they either replaced the engine or rebuilt the bottom end.
if i paid for a reman and got a repaired bottom end thats shady

the original motor overheated pretty bad during the spun bearing incident

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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-07-2011, 03:48 PM
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no not really but it was better on the first motor



if i paid for a reman and got a repaired bottom end thats shady

the original motor overheated pretty bad during the spun bearing incident
you could always look up the numbers on the block.

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