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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thoughts on an old fuel tank

I have an old fuel tank and for all intent and purposes, it's junk. Inside is very heavily rusted, fuel cap is crap, and has some dents. A different tank on eBay may not be any better, and they aren't cheap.

I thought of taking a wheel cutter and cutting inside the pinch welds of the tank. Then removing the bottom of the tank, and sanding the inside removing the rust and poping the dents out. Then sanding the bottom and re-welding it. I have done a pressure test on the tank, and it doesn't leak, so the pinch welds seem ok. And I will cut the cap that is on it now and weld a new cap on.

Sound about right?

Last edited by Dave13; 07-28-2010 at 03:52 AM.
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 08:16 AM
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Hmmm what bike is that tank for?

When I chopped up an old Honda CB tank (CB200 I think) for my old cafe seat cowling, I did the same as my first step. I cut out the bottom and what came out of that was the top "shell" which actually does not come in contact with any fuel, if there was any, and the bottom of the tank with the weird looking vessel that holds the fuel. To get rid of the rust inside of that "vessel" you might want to try using POR-15. I have used it before on a parts bike fuel tank (currently @ SilverGhosts indefinitely) with great results.

As far as popping out the dents in the "shell" part of the tank, removing the top part should make it EZ (though I have not done it before!). Fuel caps are surprisingly expensive. I looked at one for a CB360 and they are in the $50 range.
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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 09:00 AM
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dave,
youll need to learn to tig weld to reassemble the tank, and im talking probably 3 hours to get it done adn back together adn pressure tight

por15 and whatever coating/sealer is the hot ticket these days would be the way id go about it.

for popping the dents out i had good results on the 1k track tank using the billy mays ding king, i shit you not

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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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I found a few universal style fuel caps and nozzles starting at $10. I found a pimp pop up one from HD, but it's $100. I saw how your tank looked Jason, and it's pretty damn good. I still have to bring the SV over to pop a few dents in the tank. I'm going to look into por-15 and post up later. Thanks!

Last edited by Dave13; 07-28-2010 at 09:04 AM.
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 09:39 AM
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Ball bearings and CLR works wonders.
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 09:57 AM
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what do you use after the CLR to prevent further rusting? ive got a dirty ex250 tank that needs cleaning but not to the level of resealing adn this option sounds good

-Jason
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilotx1 View Post
what do you use after the CLR to prevent further rusting? ive got a dirty ex250 tank that needs cleaning but not to the level of resealing adn this option sounds good
Keep it full of gas
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 03:45 PM
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Don't cut open your tank. it's not necessary. One method is to take a handful of nuts mixed with a cup of light oil (ball bearings and CLR is a variation on this) and shake vigorously for as long as you can and shake it several times after you rest your arms (or get someone who works where they sell paint to put it in the paint shaker for you) and you will break up the rust and clean the surface inside. Remove the petcock(s) before you do this. Then flush the tank and seal with something like the affore mentioned Por 15 or another sealer (Bill Hirsch automotive or Moyer Tank Renu are other products that heve been recommended to me...google Moyer Tank Renu as they will do this all for you if you send them the tank).
There's alot of methods that will work fine and you can avoid cutting open and having to weld your tank. Good luck.

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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 05:22 PM
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Kreem comes with some kinda acetone or something you put in there after rinsing the tank out to dry up the water. alcohol?
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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My consern is that I may be running premix in the tank. I have to look into these places and make sure that premix will not dissolve the coating.
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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 05:54 PM
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Premix? You mean as in 32 to 1 or 40 to 1 gas to 2 stroke oil? If that's the case all of the stuff on the market will stand up to 2 stroke mix. Just make sure the coating you use will stand up to ethanol .
I DO NOT recommend Kreme............................................. ....my personal experience with the stuff is ...IT SUCKS and the experience of several friends is the same...Por 15, Bill Hirsch and Renu have all been recommended to me with folks who have personal experience.

"Dirt is for racing on...Asphalt is for getting there" OR "Flat trackers go in deeper and come out harder... OR (With apologies to General MaCarthur) "Old motorcycle racers never die, they just slip off the groove and fade into the dust!

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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-28-2010, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, it's an RD350, naturally a 2smoke, and I'm not sure if I will use the oil pump yet. I might simply mix the oil in the tank.
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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 02:30 AM
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The RD oil injection is very reliable. It saves a tremendous amount of hassle. Take it from someone who had a few 2 strokes back in the day that required pre mix. It sucks to have to mix the oil with the gas at the pump and it always happens that the mix is a little off.
It's fine to eliminate the injection for a dirt bike or a racer that is going to get its fuel fed to it from a can at the trail head or in the pits, but for a street bike keep the injection system in place...Believe me, you'll be happy you did.

"Dirt is for racing on...Asphalt is for getting there" OR "Flat trackers go in deeper and come out harder... OR (With apologies to General MaCarthur) "Old motorcycle racers never die, they just slip off the groove and fade into the dust!

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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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I fully agree. I'm thinking about everything I can before I get this tank painted and pretty, then the oil pump doesn't work, or it fails on a ride and I have to mix the tank.
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 09:59 AM
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Call Lenny at A-Len in Downers Grove. He's got some trick stuff for this. Use My name..........Mike @ Micron Engine
Here's his digits......630 852 5445

As for welding a new cap in place.....I don't weld steel, aluminum is my specialty. I do have a guy in River Grove the is the best.

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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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I used some advice from Sandman on this thread. https://www.chicagolandsportbikes.com...ight=Rust+tank

Using "The Works" cleaner really cuts the rust. I'm amazed at how well this stuff works for less than $2.50. Thanks for the advice!
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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 04:44 PM
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I just spoke with Moyer Tank Renu, bike tanks are about $250 and take 2-3 weeks to get them back.

They bake it at 350, so if you want your outside paint to stay, they are not a solution.

Great guys, nice to speak with.

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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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The outside of the tank will be dropped off for p-coat next week, so finish isn't a big deal. But for the $250, I could find a NOS for close to that. Thanks for the advice. Great for people expensive tanks or one of a kind tanks.
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 04:54 PM
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I have a 1963 tank I wanted them to redo, but I have original paint on it, so no go... but it is a nice option if the tank is not replaceable. Mine is mint on the outside, so I don't wanna go that direction.

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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Brian "the works" is doing a fine job. For under $3, how can you go wrong?
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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 06:15 PM
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dave, when you used "the works" on the tank. did the cleaned metal rerust quickly, what did you use to rinse "the works" out

-Jason
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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 06:25 PM
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$3 for "The Works"?!

Wow, what does she look like?!

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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wink View Post
$3 for "The Works"?!

Wow, what does she look like?!
bwhahhahaha

-Jason
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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 06:30 PM
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He is doing the cleaning now Jason.

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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Wow. I washed the tank out after letting it soak in a bottle of the works. I got a ton of crap out of this tank. I'm floored with how well it worked. I'm letting it dry, then I will use some wd-40 to help stop new rust from forming. Rep to Sandman!!! And even though the paint will be stripped of for this project, the paint was not damaged by the works. And I wasn't worried about the condition of the paint, so if you are, this should work perfect for you. Just be cautious when using it.
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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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I used water to rinse it.
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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 07:32 PM
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ill be doing this to an ex250 tank probably tomorrow


how do you plan on drying the tank after the water rinse

-Jason
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Last edited by Pilotx1; 01-07-2011 at 07:35 PM.
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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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I left it in the bathroom with the fan on for about an hour. I didn't hear or have anymore water come out. I used super hot water so it would evaporate quickly. Then I used wd-40 to help prevent rusting.
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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 09:38 PM
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You absolutely must coat the tank in something once the rust is out, trust me, unless you like cleaning carbs every other week. I used POR15 on my moped tank and am extremely happy with the results over a year later. IMO it's the only way to go.

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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wink View Post
$3 for "The Works"?!

Wow, what does she look like?!





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