"Basic" Oil Change How To *With Photos* - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 04:24 PM Thread Starter

 
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"Basic" Oil Change How To *With Photos*

After reading crazy stories pertaining to oil changes , I was prompted to post a simple generic how to. feel free to add anything I may have left out.

Most of you may already know how to do this basic task, but for the new biker this might be somewhat helpful

1. under your bike, locate the drain plug, ( some are in the open some are hidden by the plastics)



2. get your wrench and drain pan ready



3. loosen & remove drain plug, catch oil , could be very hot , don't say I did not warn you!



4. locate and remove filter, ( modern 4cyl usually have them located in the front , some times between the header pipe.( more oil will come out of here!)Another tip I picked up a long time ago, is to put a piece of aluminum foil on top of the header, just below the oil filter. Doing this keeps the oil off of them, so it doesn't burn off and make smoke when you start the bike back up.

5. if you are handy you can drill a hole in the drain plug to put in a magnet, I used a "earth magnet" its mega powerful.



6 Replace drain plug after its done dripping,(and washer if you choose to do so.)

7 grab your


and just like doing a oil change on a car you need to put a thin film of oil on the gasket.

8. install filter and drain plug.I put my filters on by hand, and I can remove them by hand.


9.Fill ( make sure you wear gloves don't want to get oil on your camera)




Kawi was nice they put this little tag to remind me how much oil to put in

and after you refill make sure there is oil in the site-glass




then you are ready to....



every bike is different , but this is just a example to show you how easy it is.

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 04:37 PM
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For the new peoples:

- warm the bike up to normal operating temp or close to it before the oil change.

- take the key out of the bike while you're doing the oil change and double/triple check you've finished completely before starting it up! (sounds stupid but it's worth the precaution)

- UNDER-fill the oil slightly before checking the oil level and fine tune it from there...much easier to add a little than try to get some out if you go overboard.

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 04:45 PM
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What's the purpose for the magnet (step 5.)?

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadRuNNa View Post
What's the purpose for the magnet (step 5.)?
lots of metal floating around in there.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 04:55 PM Thread Starter

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadRuNNa View Post
What's the purpose for the magnet (step 5.)?
The magnet ?
it keeps those tiny metal pieces out of the engine.

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1shadyninja View Post
The magnet ?
it keeps those tiny metal pieces out of the engine.
Good to know.... I've never done that but might start doing it..

When you change your oil, have you noticed significant deposit of metal around the magnet? Just want to know about it's efficiency.

-Sonny
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 05:07 PM
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Also make sure the filter you took off still has the gasket attached. Every once in a while the gasket will stick to the engine, and if you don't catch it, it's a big mess upon start up.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 05:54 PM Thread Starter

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadRuNNa View Post
Good to know.... I've never done that but might start doing it..

When you change your oil, have you noticed significant deposit of metal around the magnet? Just want to know about it's efficiency.
it has a little "Fuzz" on it, and that little bit is no longer in the oil.


Yeah the gasket is very important, you end up putting a new filter on there with a old gasket still stuck to the base .... you will have a bad day!

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 05:57 PM
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Make sure you put a bead of oil on the rubber o-ring/gasket on that new filter before you install it! Just put some on your finger and run it around the o-ring/gasket.

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 08:40 PM
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Also make sure you point out that Jody's pow-pow wheelie is weak and Lewi's rocking a nice stand up.

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 11:56 PM Thread Starter

 
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I only posted that to see how long it would take Lew to visit this thread...

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1shadyninja View Post
After reading crazy stories pertaining to oil changes , I was prompted to post a simple generic how to. feel free to add anything I may have left out.
Did you make this thread in response to the thread I started yesterday? If so, you're a fk-ing prick!

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 11:56 AM Thread Starter

 
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......

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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
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only partially, I was meaning to last year (thats when I took these photos)

your thread reminded me...
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 01:52 PM
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so if you didn't warm up the oil a bit before draining then what haps

i want to drink, but only to kill a certain few brain cells and i don't care how many i have to take out to get to them.
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 02:07 PM
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so if you didn't warm up the oil a bit before draining then what haps
It's thicker, won't come out as fast and can leave a little more residual oil inside.

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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 03:13 PM Thread Starter

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aron View Post
I'm just playing man. They need Kudos here
hmmm you from CSVT?

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 04:01 PM
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 05:02 PM
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so if you didn't warm up the oil a bit before draining then what haps
let the expert handle dis


warming up(running the engine) the oil will capture particulates(dirt) that are in the engine. Helps prevent sludge and metal deposits later on.
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-25-2011, 12:14 PM
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well i have done a few oil changes and that was my 2nd change on this bike. for the first time i didn't warm it up, did all the stuff and started it up and it was smoking for a bit took it out for a test ride and smoke went away.

i rode it the week before first ride of the season (old oil, gas) added gas no problems. kinda of a vib from what i thought was the front tire maybe from sitting

now i kinda notice a something from the engine when i was at light.

what about adding some seafoam you think that will clear it up

i want to drink, but only to kill a certain few brain cells and i don't care how many i have to take out to get to them.
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2011, 11:11 AM Thread Starter

 
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Also when tightening the drain plug remember the oil pan is ALUMINUM !!!
and will strip out the drain plug very easily.

Just had a friend find that out, the hard way


Quote:
Originally Posted by jrock View Post
Make sure you put a bead of oil on the rubber o-ring/gasket on that new filter before you install it! Just put some on your finger and run it around the o-ring/gasket.
was covered briefly in step #7

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2011, 12:25 PM
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Thank you for this thread. Love photos!!! Very helpful for me to grasp this simple task. Well looks simple enough... I, however, may still mess something up somehow Fingers cross...
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2011, 07:37 PM
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A basic oil change is a basic oil change. The dealerships are not going to do a better job than me changing it myself.............But I'm lazy and I like convenience.

After completing paperwork, I was out of here in 20 minutes, tops. My filthy carpets were vacuumed and they didn't try to sell me any unncessary maintenance such as a transmission or radiator fluid flush like other places would.

An extra $10 for tire rotations though - not so hot. But thats not why I come here. When I have the time, the best part about Speedee is that its located right next to gamestop. =)
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2011, 08:01 PM Thread Starter

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vkmbt7 View Post
A basic oil change is a basic oil change. The dealerships are not going to do a better job than me changing it myself.............But I'm lazy and I like convenience.

After completing paperwork, I was out of here in 20 minutes, tops. My filthy carpets were vacuumed and they didn't try to sell me any unncessary maintenance such as a transmission or radiator fluid flush like other places would.

An extra $10 for tire rotations though - not so hot. But thats not why I come here. When I have the time, the best part about Speedee is that its located right next to gamestop. =)
Well if you were a real forum member not a spammer you would understand this was a thread about MOTORCYCLE oil change.
Carpets vacuumed hmm...
Tires rotated? it would be interesting with the skinny tire on the rear.

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2011, 09:01 PM
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Good to see a basic maintenance thread.
For reference How tight is tight enough for a spin on oil filter?

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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2011, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
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Good to see a basic maintenance thread.
For reference How tight is tight enough for a spin on oil filter?
I use snug then add .5 turn. Then it is safety wired.
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-30-2011, 10:51 PM Thread Starter

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohfugit View Post
Good to see a basic maintenance thread.
For reference How tight is tight enough for a spin on oil filter?
I put mine on by hand,
I remove them by hand.

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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 02:37 PM
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what is the ball park figure/how many quarts for an 06 r6?
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 02:43 PM
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u can wheelie?

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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 02:49 PM
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what is the ball park figure/how many quarts for an 06 r6?
3.5

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