Small Engine (roto tiller) issues - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Small Engine (roto tiller) issues

Hey yall, i know this isnt a motorcycle related question but figured id post up here to see if you guys have any briliant ideas.

Im trying to help my mom start up her roto tiller, 1 year old Craftsmen 208cc front tine tiller (incase some one ask specifics ) its only been used twice so i dont see any reason for this to be happening.

Full tank of gas and its not turning over (yes the choke is on and throttle is turned to run). Sounds like it wants to turn over but isnt getting enough gas, basically like the carb is gummed up and not letting it start.

Any bright ideas on how to get this thing running, were trying to avoid takeing it into sears (free maintance mom just doesnt want a week or 2 wait)


Edit: I should add it was used last year, this is the first time trying to start it this year

Thanks again yall
John

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 03:26 PM
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john im off work tomorrow you got freetime?

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 03:28 PM
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if it was stored with gas in it it's probably gummed up. Remove and clean or take it to Butch

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 03:30 PM
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Jason I work tommrow but I get out at 600 if your not busy after

Sticky - yea gummed carb is my bet too unfortunately

scout - negative no prime bulb

Everyone needs a healthy way to relax, mine Church, and two wheels, a stretch of winding road, and a pipe loud enough to give me headaches and make squirrels explode. (Fixed curtousey of PWRMAD)

Nothing is impossible the second we say ill try your already admiting you can be defeated, and the second you say i cant or its to hard youve already failed.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 04:09 PM
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what about morning time?

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 04:14 PM
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try starter fluid to confirm it's a fuel issue?

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 05:06 PM
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try starter fluid to confirm it's a fuel issue?
wat, and dilute the thin film layer of oil on the cylinder walls which will cause the piston rings to score the hatch marks


Pull float bowl out and clean the mainjet.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taledarkside View Post
wat, and dilute the thin film layer of oil on the cylinder walls which will cause the piston rings to score the hatch marks


Pull float bowl out and clean the mainjet.
shut up

-Jason
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 05:33 PM
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shut up

so you want people to ruin their motors?
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 07:34 PM
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dude giving an engine a shot of starting fluid for diagnostic is not going to hurt it, continually doing to and running it on ether for more than a shot could cause accelerated wear but also remember many starting fluids contain an upper cylinder lubricant to help alleviate the issue you are stressing

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Jason - I'm busy morning sorry dude thanks for offering the help though.

Everyone needs a healthy way to relax, mine Church, and two wheels, a stretch of winding road, and a pipe loud enough to give me headaches and make squirrels explode. (Fixed curtousey of PWRMAD)

Nothing is impossible the second we say ill try your already admiting you can be defeated, and the second you say i cant or its to hard youve already failed.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2011, 09:01 PM
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-13-2011, 02:07 AM
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dude giving an engine a shot of starting fluid for diagnostic is not going to hurt it, continually doing to and running it on ether for more than a shot could cause accelerated wear but also remember many starting fluids contain an upper cylinder lubricant to help alleviate the issue you are stressing

thats shadetree diagnostic. if you have a newbie doing it to a small motor, you also have a chance of hydrolocking it too. And not all starting fluids have lube in it.


easier to do what i said and clean the jet then spending 20 dollars in gas to get a 5 dollar starting fluid can. Then 5 dollars for fresh gas for said tiller.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-13-2011, 08:07 AM
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The #1 thing u should ask your mom is if the fuel has been in there for a year. Did they drain it after they used it last, or did they run it out of fuel. If the fuel was in there when u went to start it, drain the fuel out. Then look and smell it. If it's yellow in color, it's bad fuel and my money is it's all gummed up, and the fuel has varnished. It will need to have the carb yanked, and taken apart, then put in and placed into a parts washed to try to clean it up.

I know this because my Lil bro last year left fuel in the snowblower, and put stable into the fuel. Then it sat for 6 months. Even after I told him to drain it b4 storing it. He didn't listen to me. So 4 months later it sat at the repair shop because the carb was on back order. Now S.O.P is to drain the fuel if it sits for more then a month. It was a god damn mess n pain in my ass.

...plus my gf was with me saying "omg slow down, slow down" and I was thinking "Lose annoying squalk box in passenger seat, afford more mods and have less weight in the car and on the back of the bike"...so i dumped her and I'm single again as usual...HERE KITTY KITTY!!!
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-13-2011, 08:45 AM
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john, check tha airfilter for me, i wouldnt be surprised it its totally caked in dirt/dust and flowing virtually no air



Quote:
Originally Posted by taledarkside View Post
thats shadetree diagnostic. if you have a newbie doing it to a small motor, you also have a chance of hydrolocking it too. And not all starting fluids have lube in it.
easier to do what i said and clean the jet then spending 20 dollars in gas to get a 5 dollar starting fluid can. Then 5 dollars for fresh gas for said tiller.

as much as I want to, I cant use a scope on it though...
and I already have a can of starting fluid on hand, no extra expense


one thing i dont get is why everyone immediately points to bad/old gas
I leav fuel in every peice of power equpment I own and have never had a carb problem the following season, and this isnt a 1 year thing, ive left it like this as long as I can remember

-Jason
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-15-2011, 09:13 PM
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or take it to Butch
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 08:37 AM

 
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dude giving an engine a shot of starting fluid for diagnostic is not going to hurt it, continually doing to and running it on ether for more than a shot could cause accelerated wear but also remember many starting fluids contain an upper cylinder lubricant to help alleviate the issue you are stressing
I would agree for someone experienced at this as not to overdo it.

A better method for the home owner fix would be to drop about a teaspoon of good gas direct into the cylinder. Put the plug back in and try to start. This way you bypass the carb altogether. It should fire up and run at least for a few seconds. If this does not cause it to fire up, you have a bigger issue somewhere. You can repeat this method several times. Once in a while you will be able to "clear" minor clogging by repeating this method multiple times.
If you have a way to introduce gas direct into the carb throat, it may also help without having to remove the spark plug. I use a "squeeze" bottle with universal pre-mix.

If you have a bowled carb, the bowl bolt generally is the high speed jet. The washer is important so don't lose it. Also, pay attention to the step in the bottom of the bowl. It needs to be aligned with the float pivot point when re-assembling. Look carefully at the bowl bolt for the tiny passages. Some have a center hole that intersects with a cross hole near the hex head and may also have a very tiny hole nearer to the other end where the first thread ends. This little hole is close to .010" diameter and must not be blocked or enlarged in any way when cleaning. Also the tiny hole is not always perpendicular to the center hole. When attempting to clean this hole you need to be VERY careful. Most of the time, air pressure will work. However, there have been times where I had to poke that hole clean. Just take a wire cut off a wire brush, stick it into a small piece of a wood match stick and use that as a tool to clean the hole. I've seen some guys also use a small sewing needle or straight pin.
Regardless of what you do, replace the gas first with fresh.

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Last edited by butchf; 05-16-2011 at 08:39 AM.
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