Battery issue. - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-25-2011, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Battery issue.

After the winter break my battery died on me due to my laziness of not getting a battery tender. I tried to recharge it, but it was a no go. So I decided to get a new one. I've always used YUASA batteries and never had any issues. I decided to save some money and get a cheaper dry cell battery. I got my battery and it lasted me exactly 150 miles. While I was riding before it quit on me, the bike would smell like sulfur. I took the battery out and it was swollen. I shipped it back and got it replaced. The new battery lasted me exactly the same amount of miles. I contacted the seller and he told me that it's my bike overcharging the battery and swelling the batteries. I'm confused because I never had issues like this with a standard battery and only experienced this with the dry cell. Can I please get some advise on what might the problem be? Thank you.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-25-2011, 11:14 PM
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First of all you get what you pay for when it comes to batteries.Spend the extra money and get a Yuasa like you should have. Batteries Plus sells a quality product but get the more expensive one because you get what you pay for.

Now, as far as the charging system goes... Once you get a good battery in the bike check the DC voltage at about a steady 4000 rpms. It should be around 13.5 to 14 volts. If it as significantly more or less than that you have a problem. Then pull the plug that goes from the stator to the voltage regulator. It's typically a 3 wire plug. On each of the 3 wire combos (with your meter on AC) you should read roughly between 50 and 80 volts AC coming out at a steady 4000 RPM. Yes the bike needs to be running to do the test on both the AC and DC measurements. Remeber there are 3 seperate measurements that need to be made coming out of the stator typically. You don't need to rev the piss out of it to get the mearsurements either.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 12:07 AM
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What Nick said or just a new bike.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 12:32 AM
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150 miles is what you ride a year, so just splurge on a new battery once a year, no big deal!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samal View Post
150 miles is what you ride a year, so just splurge on a new battery once a year, no big deal!
There is no way that he rides that many miles a year.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 01:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STANIMAL View Post
There is no way that he rides that many miles a year.
try



not


to


laugh

Everyone Exaggerates

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 04:17 AM
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suggest you slow charge the new battery first. 2nd, check how much voltage is being put out.

3rd. the "cheap" batteries, are really fawking cheap. and they don't last long
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STANIMAL View Post
What Nick said or just a new bike.
Hey Stan can you do that check? I don't have a voltage meter. BTW I ride about 200 miles a week.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spetsnaz56 View Post
Hey Stan can you do that check? I don't have a voltage meter. BTW I ride about 200 miles a week.
You're welcome for the explanation...

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spetsnaz56 View Post
Hey Stan can you do that check? I don't have a voltage meter. BTW I ride about 200 miles a week.
Sure , call me .
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
First of all you get what you pay for when it comes to batteries.Spend the extra money and get a Yuasa like you should have. Batteries Plus sells a quality product but get the more expensive one because you get what you pay for.

Now, as far as the charging system goes... Once you get a good battery in the bike check the DC voltage at about a steady 4000 rpms. It should be around 13.5 to 14 volts. If it as significantly more or less than that you have a problem. Then pull the plug that goes from the stator to the voltage regulator. It's typically a 3 wire plug. On each of the 3 wire combos (with your meter on AC) you should read roughly between 50 and 80 volts AC coming out at a steady 4000 RPM. Yes the bike needs to be running to do the test on both the AC and DC measurements. Remeber there are 3 seperate measurements that need to be made coming out of the stator typically. You don't need to rev the piss out of it to get the mearsurements either.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
You're welcome for the explanation...
Thank you for the explanation.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
You're welcome for the explanation...


Same Circus, Different Clown
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