Question about doing lowering links - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Question about doing lowering links

My bike came with lowering links already installed when I bought it. They are Pro Tek, and according to their website they are 2" and 4" drop. They are currently on the bottom hole for a 4" drop. When I got the bike, the tread on the rear tire was shot, so there was no problem, but now that I have a different tire installed with more tread, this happened:



Right now there is only 4" of clearance without any weight on the bike. So, I'm going to raise it up to the 2" drop setting. My question is this; I don't have a stand or jack so I thought of a way to do this without either, and I want to make sure it will work. So, my idea is to loosen the top bolt on the left link, and remove the bottom bolt completely, then break both bolts loose on the right side. At this point the right link will be holding the weight of the bike. I will then lean the bike over to the left, propping it up on the front wheel and kickstand with the rear wheel in the air. A helper will then remove the bottom bolt of the right link, then line it up on the other hole, then snug it down. Put the bike back down, then I should be able to line up the left side link then tighten everything down. This should work fine, yes?

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 01:28 PM
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might work, but lots of risk in that method. Might want to invest in a rear stand for the future, although in this case a rear stand wont help other then to get the bike up so you can get jack stands under the bike to hold the entire swing arm off the ground.

Do you have car jack stands that you can put the bike on? If you have solid rear sets you can put the stands under them. If not you might need to run a steel bar/pipe under the bike across the stands to support the bike if that is an option. The exhaust pipe or other things might prevent this method though. The other option is using ratchet straps over a beam(s) in the ceiling to lift the bike from the frame.

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 01:31 PM

 
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the bolts seldom remove that easy they often need persuasion.

Your safest bet is holding the rear frame up while the swing arm can hang.although holding the bike like this is hard to do with some imagination and a few stands you'll be fine.

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks guys. I don't have jackstands at my storage unit where I would be doing this, but I could bring it into work and use the maintenance shop who does have a jack and jackstands. My jack and stands are being stored at my dad's house not very close to my place. Sucks having only enough room for my basic tools. I'll have to see what I can come up with.

Thanks again

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 02:12 PM
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Put that thing back to stock ride height. Lowering it ruins the handleing characteristics that the little Japanese engineer worked so hard on getting right.

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
Put that thing back to stock ride height. Lowering it ruins the handleing characteristics that the little Japanese engineer worked so hard on getting right.
Everybody has their own likes and dislikes. My bike is getting stretched over winter, so it may go back down to a 4" drop. I plan on doing some 1/4 mile racing next year.

I will never be doing a track day on it, so for me, a street rider, I am content with the way it handles. To each their own...

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 03:26 PM
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Leaning in on the kickstand is fine, done it that way many times at the strip. just make sure you trust whoever is holding the bike while your working under it and they better be strong. easiest way is a simple floor jack.




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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 03:40 PM

 
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aron View Post
Everybody has their own likes and dislikes. My bike is getting stretched over winter, so it may go back down to a 4" drop. I plan on doing some 1/4 mile racing next year.

I will never be doing a track day on it, so for me, a street rider, I am content with the way it handles. To each their own...
10-4, Roger that. Although my pickup truck probably turns better than a lowered stretched motorcycle. I think it ruins the whole bike and it's purpose. They put more research and technology into the chassis and handeling characteristics of the bike than the motor and people take them and lower and stretch them.

Like you said. To each their own. Do you ride around with your helmet strapped to the tail of your bike to?

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
10-4, Roger that. Although my pickup truck probably turns better than a lowered stretched motorcycle. I think it ruins the whole bike and it's purpose. They put more research and technology into the chassis and handeling characteristics of the bike than the motor and people take them and lower and stretch them.

Like you said. To each their own. Do you ride around with your helmet strapped to the tail of your bike to?
I was thinking the same thing... You know it!
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Admittedly, I am guilty of riding with my helmet on the hook occasionally. It's my preference.

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 09:45 PM

 
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Gus
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 09:50 PM
The apex was where?
 
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purdy^^

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-20-2011, 11:34 PM

 
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Changing lowering links.And I'm a professional if you believe that.

Gus
We offer three kinds of service @ Resurrection
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You can pick any two
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Damn, I assume the bike fell on your hand?

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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 10:28 AM

 
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Yes sir.Please be careful.

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Will do, thank you.

I rode into work today, I'm going to do it at lunch break with the help of one of the maintenance guys. He has a chain hoist, so we decided to lift the rear with that. I'm going to remove the tail plastics then put the chain under the rear subframe. The air compressor is in a little room upstairs, and there's a nice sturdy railing to hang it from. We figured that will be the easiest/safest way to do it.

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 12:38 PM

 
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Caution the front wheel needs support on both front forks or it will fall forward and to the side.

I've spent at least $1K on stands and trust me they are worth every cent.

Gus
We offer three kinds of service @ Resurrection
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You can pick any two
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 12:49 PM
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I put the bike on a rear stand. Put a steel rod through the swingarm pivot. Put jack stands under the rod and lower the bike off the rear stands onto the jack stands. For the price of a steel rod you can remove lowering links or shocks.

The other option is to crank up the preload and compression settings on your rear shock. You are bottoming out on bumps.

Some of us track guys used to be squids with low bikes, helmets on the tail, and Oakleys.

Just noticed you are in Oswego. If you need a hand I'm in Yorkville.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
Caution the front wheel needs support on both front forks or it will fall forward and to the side.

I've spent at least $1K on stands and trust me they are worth every cent.
Those stands are over here if you are looking for them.

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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
Caution the front wheel needs support on both front forks or it will fall
Hope you took note of this post or you will drop the bike just lifting by the rear. The front will roll.

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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, we got it done. I didn't see the most recent posts until now...we decided to ditch the chain hoist and just try the way I initially asked about by leaning the bike on the kickstand. Worked like a charm and only took 5 minutes.

When I first noticed the rubbing a couple days ago, I did check the compression setting and spring preload, and both were full tight already so I assume the previous owner had issues before the tire was worn down too.

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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, and for some reason I thought there was four bolts holding the links. I looked it up in the service manual I downloaded and found that there is only two through bolts holding them on. Didn't change anything for me though.

We took the bottom nut off, then I lifted the bike and held it while my buddy tapped the bolt out with a drift, then lined up the other holes and back together it went. Took longer to get the nut off that was tight as hell. Had to get the impact out.

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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 05:03 PM

 
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Cool nobody lost any fingers

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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 06:04 PM
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I've done hoists as well. A friend of mine used to work for a large metal fabrication company. when we did my wires old F4 we hooked up to the hoist to the rear passenger pegs, removed the link, cut it, reinstalled, then measured the distance that needed to be added for the height we wanted, then big welded in a section of aluminum. Bike was perfect.




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