rectifier issues on 06 gsxr 600 - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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rectifier issues on 06 gsxr 600

HELP ME PLEASE... Im new to this site and did a search to find a similar issue and could not find any matches.

My problem is... took the bike for a short 30 min ride sat night and when i pulled back into garage i smelled what seemed to be burning rubber. it was faint and I could not tell where it was coming from.

Next morning took bike out again and 15 min into ride smelled it again and 1 min after, at a stop light, smoke poured out of bike so I immediatly turned off. Light turned green so I started up and pulled over. Smoke seemed to be pouring out of where the rectifier is located. Put key to on and nothing... no power, no display, no start. Towed home.

Now I inspected the rectifier and noticed it actually split (cracked) in the back and is burnt with a wierd burnt corrosion coming out of it.

everyone I've talked to says they have never seen it actually split open, only fail and short out...

Has this ever happened to anyone? Can I just replace the rectifier and move on? Do I have to replace anything else? What caused this and if I replace the rectifier will it happen again because of another issue? Why no power or display? What fuse if any do I check?

I'd appreciate any info. Thanks
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 09:43 PM

 
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They have a recall keep looking you'll find more info.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 10:01 PM
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
They have a recall keep looking you'll find more info.
Recall was for the 08+ IIRC.

On the 06/07 I think the Rectifier is pretty cheap, $100 or so. Swap shouldn't take long at all.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks I will replace it. I just didn't want to replace it and have what ever caused the problem in the first place to do it again and be right back where i started.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 10:53 PM
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Check the output voltage of the stator and make sure the battery can handle a load. Don't smoke your new regulator / rectifier. That might not be the only problem.

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 11:01 PM
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common problem on those....just replace the rectifier and should be good to go.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
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common problem on those....just replace the rectifier and should be good to go.
What's the deal with that? Is it mounted in a bad spot where it's getting too hot?

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
What's the deal with that? Is it mounted in a bad spot where it's getting too hot?
That's what I've read on the topic.

Do you know if Stator failure can lead to Rectifier failure, Rectifier lead to stator failure or battery lead to either?

I have an '08 that is having charging issues and the rectifier was just replaced under recall, should the next step be checking the stator?

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmartDrug View Post
That's what I've read on the topic.

Do you know if Stator failure can lead to Rectifier failure, Rectifier lead to stator failure or battery lead to either?

I have an '08 that is having charging issues and the rectifier was just replaced under recall, should the next step be checking the stator?
The way it works is the stator puts out AC voltage into the R/R. The R/R turns it into DC voltage which charges the battery. The electric system runs off the battery. The electric system can't just run off the R/R because there isn't enough capacitance. The capacitance of the battery is required so the electric system can pull the specificed amount of current. IE... Lights, blinkers, horn, gauges ect... Follow me? So yes they are all connected. A bad battery can put an undesired strain on the R/R. A fault in the electric system should be fused but if it isn't it can strain the battery, which strains the R/R which can strain the stator.

The bike will run without the R/R. With a good battery it will run. So a test to do is with a new battery and the stator and R/R disconnected. Start the bike with just the battery connected. Check the AC voltage coming out of the stator at about 5k RPM. You should have about 70 volts AC coming out of each of the 3 combos. There's typically 3 wires coming out. If that is good and constant reconnect the R/R. Check the voltage output of the R/R. It's should be about 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC at a constant 5k RPM.

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 11:39 PM
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Also, if that R/R is getting hot put it somewhere it can get air and stay cool. They have heat syncs on them so they cool off. They are designed to dispurse heat. But if it can't get air the heat syncs don't do anything. Relocate it. If that means extending wires you may need to do so. Just make sure you solder them really good when you extend them.

This is about as simple as a drawing gets.. Except on the modern bikes the regulator and rectifier are in one unit.


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Last edited by Grasshopper; 08-31-2011 at 11:43 PM.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 11:49 PM
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After you replace the R/R, use the following chart to see if anything else is bad.

https://www.chicagolandsportbikes.com...ad.php?t=87865

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
The way it works is the stator puts out AC voltage into the R/R. The R/R turns it into DC voltage which charges the battery. The electric system runs off the battery. The electric system can't just run off the R/R because there isn't enough capacitance. The capacitance of the battery is required so the electric system can pull the specificed amount of current. IE... Lights, blinkers, horn, gauges ect... Follow me? So yes they are all connected. A bad battery can put an undesired strain on the R/R. A fault in the electric system should be fused but if it isn't it can strain the battery, which strains the R/R which can strain the stator.

The bike will run without the R/R. With a good battery it will run. So a test to do is with a new battery and the stator and R/R disconnected. Start the bike with just the battery connected. Check the AC voltage coming out of the stator at about 5k RPM. You should have about 70 volts AC coming out of each of the 3 combos. There's typically 3 wires coming out. If that is good and constant reconnect the R/R. Check the voltage output of the R/R. It's should be about 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC at a constant 5k RPM.

You with me?
Brilliant, thank you very much!

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrock View Post
After you replace the R/R, use the following chart to see if anything else is bad.

https://www.chicagolandsportbikes.com...ad.php?t=87865
That is a good chart to.

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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 09:15 AM
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 09:30 AM
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Kawi's have problems also,

They all buy units from the same couple of suppliers, so many times it's not limited to one brand of motorcycle.

Shitty Pass Racing #513
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 09:45 AM
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Don't forget about the R1 and R6 with the same problems as well. Oh and ask Jeff about his D675 or anyone with a D675 for that matter!
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 09:48 AM
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The 1988 Katanas had bullet proof rectifiers. Get one of those, problem solved.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicago Performance View Post
The 1988 Katanas had bullet proof rectifiers. Get one of those, problem solved.
Katanas are too uncool, you could install that RR, but you'd also have to remove a ball.

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Alright thanks for all the info. Some say to buy any rectifier. I found @ shop for $240, I found on a susuki part shop online for $180, and on amazon for $120. Is the one on amazon ligit or piece oh shit? Are they all the same or should I stay away from the cheapo?
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011, 01:34 AM

 
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Ricky Stator.

Most cost about $90.
I would if I were you buy one from a reputable sales place and spend some time cleaning all the connections.

Just my 2 cents but what do I know??

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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2011, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
Ricky Stator.

Just my 2 cents but what do I know??
They don't make anything for sportbikes from the look of things.

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Last edited by SmartDrug; 09-02-2011 at 01:44 PM.
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