SV Superbike Motor Rebuild - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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SV Superbike Motor Rebuild

About a year and a half ago at Grattan I was coming around turn 3 with a freight train of guys behind me, I shifted from 3rd to 4th and completely locked the trans up. Somehow I kept the bike upright and skidded about what seemed to be a football field to the outside edge of turn 4. So now I'm finally tearing the motor apart to see what actually went wrong inside.

Here's a track map incase you aren't familiar with Grattan



Here is a picture of the skid mark. And I almost put a skid mark in my pants when this happened. You see where Joe is standing way out there? That is where the skid mark ends. I was standing at the beginning. This was the Sunday practice day after the team Chicago school. Grattan didn't have a crash truck so when I skidded to a stop I couldn't move the bike. They had to red flag the session and we pulled the bike over to lean it up against a tree with a four wheeler. I had to wait until the end of the day to get the bike and I was shitfaced by the time I got out there.


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post #2 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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So we have a motor that's ready to be taken apart here...



I'm keeping everything as organized as I can. I have hardware seperated as clutch and stator side. Any hardware that I can thread back in the holes they came out of I usually put it back in so when i go to bolt the part back on it's there.



Heads removed



The front and rear valves look really nice...




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post #3 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Pistons and cyllinders look good to




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post #4 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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I'm really making an honest effort to keep everything organized step by step




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post #5 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Last night I brought the motor over to the Resurrection shop because Gus had made a custom puller to split the cases. We had a really hard time getting the motor cracked open because of the broken trans.



The counter shaft will not move at all. Completely locked up in 4th. No play at all



Cylinders pulled


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post #6 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Kind of a blurry picture but the plate is designed to pull the halves apart from each other. That is, if the trans isn't tweeked it should be a simple operation. No so true with this scenario



So we finally got the cases split and look what we found... Carnage..






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post #7 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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The trans is jammed in the case. Not sure what I'm going to do yet. New bearings have to be purchased at the least. Hopefully the case isn't junk. The trans tried to be in 3rd and 4th at the same time. Lots of teeth missing and at the bottom of the engine case. I have several other transmissions. Just need to go through them and make sure I have a full assembly. Send the parts out, get them undercut, magnifluxed for cracks or deformaties and cryo treated for more strength..

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post #8 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 10:55 AM
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More pics please. I wanna know whats F'd up

Disregaurd I see the last couple of pics.

Last edited by G2G; 09-09-2011 at 10:58 AM.
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post #9 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 11:00 AM
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Root cause?

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post #10 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 11:03 AM
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I really appreciate seeing what you guys go through, to find and correct the problem.

Thanks Nick for sharing this.

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post #11 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eE jeremy View Post
Root cause?
Not too sure. I have some money into this motor. It has the Falicon crank in there, carrillo rods, R&D undercut trans, 3mm overbore. The motor passed the leak down test at 98% prior to the weekend on the front and rear cylinders and had really good compression. The motor looks great, valves, pistons, cylinders. All looks good. Maybe I initiated a funny shift cranking out of turn 3 and it didn't fully disengage and engage again. It sucks that the whole motor has to come apart to get to the trans though.

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Last edited by Grasshopper; 09-09-2011 at 11:09 AM.
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post #12 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 11:07 AM
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Wow carnage is right -- good luck getting everything in order on that. I've never rebuilt a motorcycle engine myself, but ive done countless auto engines and transmissions.

I'll be interested to see how it progresses along, id like to learn to work on the heart of these beasts

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post #13 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 11:16 AM
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Root cause?
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post #14 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 11:25 AM
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Cool write-up, shitty situation, GL removing the tranny.

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post #15 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 11:41 AM
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looks like fun
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post #16 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
Maybe I initiated a funny shift cranking out of turn 3 and it didn't fully disengage and engage again.
Yep, that turn you don't need to shift hard or fast because you are leaned over, so you probably shifted lightly and it got stuck in between gears and shredded shit up. Sucks.
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post #17 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Yep, that turn you don't need to shift hard or fast because you are leaned over, so you probably shifted lightly and it got stuck in between gears and shredded shit up. Sucks.
Do they make a quick shifter for a 1st gen SV?

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post #18 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 12:35 PM
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Not a production one like the Dynojet Quickshifter, because they are tied into their Power Commander stuff and fuel injection. There are others that will work with carbed bikes, but really, if you undercut the trans and have a more positive shift that should take care of the problem. It's just a rare occurrence this happened to you.
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post #19 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Not a production one like the Dynojet Quickshifter, because they are tied into their Power Commander stuff and fuel injection. There are others that will work with carbed bikes, but really, if you undercut the trans and have a more positive shift that should take care of the problem. It's just a rare occurrence this happened to you.
I really don't want to pay another 400 some odd dollars to have another trans undercut. Should I just put a stock one in there? I was planning on having in magnifluxed and cryo treated. Undercut or no?

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post #20 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 12:44 PM
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I really don't want to pay another 400 some odd dollars to have another trans undercut. Should I just put a stock one in there? I was planning on having in magnifluxed and cryo treated. Undercut or no?
Was the one you had in there undercut to begin with?
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post #21 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Was the one you had in there undercut to begin with?
Yes, R&D undercut trans.

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post #22 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 02:01 PM
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Nick, I truly wish I knew enough about motors to troubleshoot and rebuild one myself. I have one SV motor at home to rebuild, and one that is in the SV that I have no friggin' clue what is wrong with it.
Anyhow, nasty bits of metal in your engine, good luck with getting it all revving' again. I know you guys will figure it out no matter what.

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post #23 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 02:10 PM
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Yes, R&D undercut trans.
Interesting. You shouldn't have any problems with a proper undercut tranny unless something else broke in the shifting process first. Undercutting is definitely a plus any way you look at it, it just depends on whether you want to spend the cash again to do it right.
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post #24 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 03:05 PM
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It's just a rare occurrence this happened to you.
You're probably one of the few that could actually handle this and keep it upright. I would have been on my head.
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post #25 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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You're probably one of the few that could actually handle this and keep it upright. I would have been on my head.
I still have the tire. It has a giant flat spot on it all the way down to the cords. I don't know how I didn't dump it. It locked up just as I was getting back on top of the tire when I shifted and It was just like slamming on the rear brake, so I kind of road it out while brushing the front to keep it all in line. The skid mark is long ain't? I have the underwear and the tire from that day.

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post #26 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 03:41 PM

 
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Keep in mind the idea behind an undercut trans is to help keep it engaged under load.

the gear that failed to disengage might have been held in place by the undercut.

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post #27 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Keep in mind the idea behind an undercut trans is to help keep it engaged under load.

the gear that failed to disengage might have been held in place by the undercut.
So what should we do? Build a stock one that is not undercut?

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post #28 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
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I still have the tire. It has a giant flat spot on it all the way down to the cords. I don't know how I didn't dump it. It locked up just as I was getting back on top of the tire when I shifted and It was just like slamming on the rear brake, so I kind of road it out while brushing the front to keep it all in line. The skid mark is long ain't? I have the underwear and the tire from that day.

Multiple long skid marks I'm sure.
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post #29 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 03:50 PM
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What he is saying is just JB weld that bitch and get back out there. LOL
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post #30 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-09-2011, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plotts View Post
You're probably one of the few that could actually handle this and keep it upright. I would have been on my head.
My first time trying GP shifting in '90 I shifted the wrong way leaned over in turn 9, and promptly shit my pants. Didn't make that mistake again.
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