screw holding speed sensor rotor - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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screw holding speed sensor rotor

im in the process of pulling the motor from my 07 gsxr 600
i cant get the damn screw that holds the speed sensor rotor to come loose, anyone know if its a right or left hand thread off hand?


this is located on the trans output shaft at the front sprocket...

-Jason
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 05:38 PM
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should be normal, i used to use an air butterfly wrench to get those off and thats not much torque, it may have some locktite on it from the sprocket nut?
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 05:39 PM
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just use an allen socket and an air gun , it'll come off oneway or another
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 05:50 PM
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righty tighty lefty loosy like everything else.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 09:11 PM
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Damn you're pulling the motor?
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 09:24 PM

 
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 10:22 PM
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Leave it in. You really don't need to take it off to pull the engine.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 10:31 PM
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Yep...what Ken said....just unplug it and leave it attached.

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 11:02 PM

 
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Or you could do that. Geesh. You guys make things sounds so simple.

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 12:00 AM
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To give you something to shoot for.....

2 guys can do one out and new one in and running in 40 minutes total....when you just have to get it done in that time frame.

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 12:58 AM
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Or buy a Honda and leave the engine in.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
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Leave it in. You really don't need to take it off to pull the engine.
This is exactly why supporting your local dealer is a good idea.



You putting a 750 in Pilot!?
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
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To give you something to shoot for.....

2 guys can do one out and new one in and running in 40 minutes total....when you just have to get it done in that time frame.

my first swap took 8hrs... at the second one I got better 4hrs but I was alone...

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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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im alone on this project, no im not doing a 750 swap, just checking valves, but this could make a good dry run for that, and i do need to remove it, planning on replacing the sprocket possibly after i get it all cleaned off and look at the teeth.

as long as i know its a normal thread, im gonna go pull harder just needed to make sure so as not to break shit unnecessarily

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
This is exactly why supporting your local dealer is a good idea.

You putting a 750 in Pilot!?
i support my dealers, he knows this

-Jason
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 11:40 AM
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air wrench for the win!
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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air wrench for the win!
i start with hand tools for everything, even when i know ill end up needing impact... less broken parts that way, knuckles heal for free

-Jason
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilotx1 View Post
im alone on this project, no im not doing a 750 swap, just checking valves, but this could make a good dry run for that, and i do need to remove it, planning on replacing the sprocket possibly after i get it all cleaned off and look at the teeth.

as long as i know its a normal thread, im gonna go pull harder just needed to make sure so as not to break shit unnecessarily
If you need a hand i'm available this afternoon...

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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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if i cant get this friggin screw out ill give you a call
gettin the rest of the motor out and the valves checked would put me way ahead of schedule

-Jason
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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the motor is OUT went pretty quickly after i got past that screw, i think im at about 3 solid hours into the project so far.

while im here... manual CCT or leave the stock one untouched?

-Jason
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 02:02 PM
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germany says all the cool kids go manual. you want to be cool, don't ya?
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 02:53 PM
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im not cool either

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennywags View Post
germany says all the cool kids go manual. you want to be cool, don't ya?
Im used to being uncool, dunno what Id do with myself if I were to suddenly become cool because I put on a manual cct

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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 05:10 PM
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You have to take the engine out of a GSXR to check the valves? Holy fuck.
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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according to the manual... no you dont have to pull the motor, however its a pain in the neck to get in there and its cramped. i was also expecting to have to adjust them...then pulling it is necessary

while its out ill make a decision to put in a manual cct or not...

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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 04:13 PM
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stock works fine...

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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 04:44 PM

 
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Something about the stone age simplicity of a manual cct just makes sense on these older bikes in my opinion.

Some of the stock cct will need a little piece of tin to help keep them retracted for assembly you can use a small screw driver but you'll need three hands.

After installing the cct be sure to recheck your marks.

Good luck.

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I'd love to help but I don't chase parts.
Please contact other forum members and supporters for parts.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 05:03 PM
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Personally, a no maintenance stock ratcheting tensioner is simpler than a manual tensioner where you have to adjust it.

Id stick with the OEM tensioner, since its tuned for the chain system.
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 05:09 PM
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Manual is more reliable, once it's set it's set. But manual does not adjust itself like an OEM one does, so more maintenance is required. I'd run the stock one and not worry about it.
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 07:19 PM

 
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Over the years I've only seen OEM cct failures.

Seems to me if there is a chance of failure the racer as apposed to the mindless owner should address the possibility.


If not having to be responsible for the tensioner, is the best excuse the OEM part has.

maybe the OEM part is best for you.

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I'd love to help but I don't chase parts.
Please contact other forum members and supporters for parts.

Last edited by resurrection; 01-15-2012 at 07:22 PM.
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