dead 07 gsxr 600 - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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dead 07 gsxr 600

finished putting my 600 back together yesterday and went to start it... nothing

wiggles some wires around and reconnected the connectors and the bike turned on when the key was turned... the bike even started up just fine. saw a touch of smoke that came from the voltage regulator. its fried now obviously. shut the bike off and checked things out, the regulator was friggin hot from only running like a minute. turned the key back on and NOTHING

the voltage reg is completely removed from the bike and still nothing, from what i can tell even absent the bike should at least electrically power on... can anyone confirm that

anyone have an 06/07 gsxr 600 voltage reg i could borrow just to plug in and see if the bike powers up?

Ive been through just about every wire on the bike between the key switch and the computer and cant find anything else wrong

-Jason
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post #2 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 02:18 PM

 
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With a strong battery the bike will run with the alt. disconnected.

I might check fuses if things got that hot.

On some of the suzukis they had a secondary fuse box that was fed from the ing.fuse in the main fuse panel.

This can easily be over looked follow the ing.wire out of the main fuse panel and see where it leads.

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post #3 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
With a strong battery the bike will run with the alt. disconnected.

I might check fuses if things got that hot.

On some of the suzukis they had a secondary fuse box that was fed from the ing.fuse in the main fuse panel.

This can easily be over looked follow the ing.wire out of the main fuse panel and see where it leads.
not just the alt disconnected but the rectifier completely removed as well.
ohmed all fuses so far all are good
ill go looking for a secondary panel but i dont see one on the wiring diagram

thanks gus, im grabbin for straws at this point so anything helps

-Jason
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post #4 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 04:34 PM
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Talk to Mao. He just had this happen 2 weeks ago.
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post #5 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 04:39 PM
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check the starter solenoid, see if it is distributing electricity. Checking voltage. You can jump the solenoid and see if that works too.
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post #6 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by taledarkside View Post
check the starter solenoid, see if it is distributing electricity. Checking voltage. You can jump the solenoid and see if that works too.
solenoid works fine and spins the starter motor when jumped from its terminals to 12v

-Jason
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post #7 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 06:42 PM
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When the regulator fried on my R6, the bike died while riding on the highway. I thought it was the battery at first, but then I saw the burned regulator. After replacing that, it fired right up. Seems like you're pretty sure the regulator is toast, I'd fix that before tearing the bike apart.

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post #8 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 07:01 PM
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Nothing to add, just hope you get it fixed soon J.
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post #9 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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When the regulator fried on my R6, the bike died while riding on the highway. I thought it was the battery at first, but then I saw the burned regulator. After replacing that, it fired right up. Seems like you're pretty sure the regulator is toast, I'd fix that before tearing the bike apart.
was it completely dead or did it still light up when you turned the key?

-Jason
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post #10 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 08:44 PM
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The lights flashed a few times then everything shut off. I had a faint glow on the gauges after it died, then that went out too.

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post #11 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 08:52 PM

 
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lets get back to basics.
spark,fuel pump?

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post #12 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 08:56 PM

 
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the plug from the fuse panel will have bad contact.Checking the fuses is great, BUT follow the wires out to the next plug and check the other side of the plug.



P.S.
Does the bike turn over with the kill switch off??? if so it may have a bad contact.hold it down tight while trying to start.

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post #13 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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the bike does nothing, its as if the battery were out...

the battery is good, when i jump the starter solenoid it cranks strongly. im getting zero power when the key is turned

-Jason
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post #14 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
lets get back to basics.
spark,fuel pump?
nothing nada

it ran yesterday, the regulator fried and its been out since
theres a short somewhere between the key and the rest of the bike getting powered up

-Jason
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post #15 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 11:07 PM
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I guess a call to Mao didn't help you huh.
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post #16 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 11:13 PM
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disconnect the ignition switch, and see if you are getting voltage on the red wire, and orange wire (according to the diagram i' looking at)


The ignition solenoid, 30amp fuse is fine?



while you got the ign switch disconnected, check the ground of it. Put the meter on the red (red probe) and there should be a black stripped white and put the (black probe) on that one.

you could have messed up the black ground that was connected to the regulator which is connected with the battery ground. Looks like the bike doesn't have a (frame ground) and uses a black/strip white for all ground(neg)
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post #17 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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steve, it did not unfortunately

tds, ill check it out tomorrow spent about 8 hours on it today back n forth with the namual and diagram

-Jason
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post #18 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 06:39 AM
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pull your right hand mid fairing. There is a connector there that has an orange wire. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the right. Make sure your start stop switch is in the run position. Now wiggle, pull, tug, and push the connector together and apart while watching your gauge cluster. I'm willing to guess it a bad connection on one of those wires. if still you cant get the cluster to at least flicker check for connectivity across all those wires.
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post #19 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 08:30 AM
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Did you use the flowchart that is stickied in this forum??

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post #20 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 10:11 AM
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To reiterate....

The bike WILL run without the Regulator / Rectifier and Stator DISCONNECTED just as long as you have a good battery. Remember this remember this remember this. Understand?

The system does not need the charging system at all to run. It only needs the stator and R/R to CHARGE the battery.

So if you have a good battery FORGET the charging system for now.

You need to mess with your kill switch and starter button. Take the killswitch off of the bike. When you turn the killswitch on does it open and close according to the meter checking continuity? Same thing with the starter button. Open close with the meter checking continuity?

The starter celenoid has a coil that is excited by 12 volts delivered by the starter button and killswitch.

You need a big schematic. Let me know if you need help or if you want to bring it down here. I can help you out.

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post #21 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
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nothing nada

it ran yesterday, the regulator fried and its been out since
theres a short somewhere between the key and the rest of the bike getting powered up
I talked to our alternator guy at work, the short idea is the right track. You were tracing wires yesterday, did you find any that we're crimped, or caught in a frame connection? Ie, grounded by accident. Focus on the alternator wires, back to the regulator and battery, are there any grounded connections? Are they supposed to be grounded? They will probably be non fused wires......

Also, he added that at least on our engines, no regulator, no gauge or ECU power.
Edit//. Per grasshopper, it's not that way on the Gsxr, so disregard.




And since no one else has said it.......it's fucked..... I'll give you $50 for it.
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post #22 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
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I talked to our alternator guy at work, the short idea is the right track. You were tracing wires yesterday, did you find any that we're crimped, or caught in a frame connection? Ie, grounded by accident. Focus on the alternator wires, back to the regulator and battery, are there any grounded connections? Are they supposed to be grounded? They will probably be non fused wires......

Also, he added that at least on our engines, no regulator, no gauge or ECU power.
Edit//. Per grasshopper, it's not that way on the Gsxr, so disregard.




And since no one else has said it.......it's fucked..... I'll give you $50 for it.
Are you saying you need the R/R and stator connected to run the system? I don't believe that. You need a solid +12 volts... thats it.

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post #23 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
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Are you saying you need the R/R and stator connected to run the system? I don't believe that. You need a solid +12 volts... thats it.
Yes, just 12 volts. However on our engines (work engines, not bike) with stators, if your regulator fries, the engine power dies. Something in the power routing, so it has to be physically bypassed......but I'm not familiar with that stator on the Gsxr, hence I'll revert to your knowledge.

The EE at work did say, that since the engine was out, put back in, initially turned on and then fried, a short with the stator / alternator / voltage regulator is the likely cause. Probably a pinched or incorrectly connected wire.
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post #24 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 10:38 AM
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Jason, email me the schematic for the bike so I can take a look at it.

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post #25 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evil skinny View Post
pull your right hand mid fairing. There is a connector there that has an orange wire. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the right. Make sure your start stop switch is in the run position. Now wiggle, pull, tug, and push the connector together and apart while watching your gauge cluster. I'm willing to guess it a bad connection on one of those wires. if still you cant get the cluster to at least flicker check for connectivity across all those wires.
going back out to check

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrock View Post
Did you use the flowchart that is stickied in this forum??
yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
To reiterate....

The bike WILL run without the Regulator / Rectifier and Stator DISCONNECTED just as long as you have a good battery. Remember this remember this remember this. Understand?

The system does not need the charging system at all to run. It only needs the stator and R/R to CHARGE the battery.

So if you have a good battery FORGET the charging system for now.

You need to mess with your kill switch and starter button. Take the killswitch off of the bike. When you turn the killswitch on does it open and close according to the meter checking continuity? Same thing with the starter button. Open close with the meter checking continuity?

The starter celenoid has a coil that is excited by 12 volts delivered by the starter button and killswitch.

You need a big schematic. Let me know if you need help or if you want to bring it down here. I can help you out.

You know all this Jason, you're a smart cookie.
sent the entire manual to your fedsig email, wiring diagram is page 515
i have a spare kill/start button assy that i swapped in and still nothing

-Jason
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post #26 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 11:37 AM

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evil skinny View Post
pull your right hand mid fairing. There is a connector there that has an orange wire. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the right. Make sure your start stop switch is in the run position. Now wiggle, pull, tug, and push the connector together and apart while watching your gauge cluster. I'm willing to guess it a bad connection on one of those wires. if still you cant get the cluster to at least flicker check for connectivity across all those wires.
+++1
just as I mentioned the connection for the ign wire looses contact. Check this first. I seen it several times on suzuki's.

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Last edited by resurrection; 05-06-2012 at 11:41 AM.
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post #27 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
+++1
just as I mentioned the connection for the ign wire looses contact. Check this first. I seen it several times on suzuki's.
i checked the connectors from teh bars and key to the harness numerous times yesterday when you mentioned it. the thoughts about whats wrong have run the gamut from simply a broken wire all the way to i fried the computer but even a fried comp would still light up the gagues or do something when the key turned

-Jason
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post #28 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 07:57 PM

 
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power to the key then the ecu then then to the cluster.


You may have better luck with just a test light .
after the key?
to the ecu?
The kill switch ??does power go there or does it ground?

These systems are either open or closed, on or off

If you can follow 12v from battery through key to the ECU and 12v stops there Hmm?

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post #29 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
power to the key then the ecu then then to the cluster.

TDS already said, said approach. two wizards cuz i got a scope.



When turning the key(accordig to the diagram i looked) your lights should come on too. Did you check the ground at the switch, like scopemaster said?


Also in the fuse panel, it looked like there were 2 diodes and some other weird thing that isn't mentioned in the wiring diagram. you can check the continuity of dose diodes.
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post #30 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-07-2012, 12:23 PM
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Any luck yet?

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