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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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When someone says "that can't be done" They really mean they can't do it. This crank came in with the rod bearing spun out of the con rod. The damaged area was about .040. We cleaned the crank, welded up the damaged area, and ground it back to standard. We also polished the mains. And we saved the customer a ton of money over purchasing a new crank.
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File Type: jpg scored crank.JPG (30.7 KB, 72 views)
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File Type: jpg ground crank.JPG (31.2 KB, 72 views)

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 11:19 PM
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Annnnnd another one of your motors. Ceptor did the block for my engine. He did some great work.



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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 08:33 AM

 
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Nice work!

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 10:34 AM
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how do you deal with warping from the weld ive always wondered that

-Jason
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 12:39 PM
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I'm with Pilot. I have always had a distaste for this method of repair. What did you do to normalize the welded heat effected zone?

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 12:57 PM
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dont get me wrong i have no ill motive or thoughts about the repair just wondering how that one aspect is dealt with

-Jason
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilotx1 View Post
dont get me wrong i have no ill motive or thoughts about the repair just wondering how that one aspect is dealt with
Not saying if not done correctly it wouldn't work gang busters. I have a bad experience with this type of repair on a car engine that's the only reason I am curious.

Ian
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 01:05 PM
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I know that Ceptor will chime in, but for this type of repair we would do it in a number of ways:
1. Welding for a short period of time to not add excessive heat to the crank
2. Heat the crank before welding, weld, then controlled cool down of the crank
3. Just weld, check for warping and straighten out as required

In all cases you would check for warping after welding was completed, though limited warping could be "taken out" by grinding the crank - which you would have to do anyhow.

I think that the biggest challenge is ensure that you keep the welding "even" around the crank pin, either by rotating the crank as you weld or by welding on either side of the pin as you build up the weld.

This method is also used to stroke a crank.

Glenn
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 01:25 PM
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I'm with Pilot. I have always had a distaste for this method of repair. What did you do to normalize the welded heat effected zone?
I used to do this with heavy equipment motors for quarry machinery. I'm not sure what Ceptor did, but I used to use a torch to pre-heat surrounding areas. Especially, if they were different metal types. I'd monitor them with a infra red temp guage every 5 minutes or so and try to keep them all a similar temp. The weldes ended up being great. Never had one come back.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 01:48 PM
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Annnnnd another one of your motors. Ceptor did the block for my engine. He did some great work.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meulen View Post
I used to do this with heavy equipment motors for quarry machinery. I'm not sure what Ceptor did, but I used to use a torch to pre-heat surrounding areas. Especially, if they were different metal types. I'd monitor them with a infra red temp guage every 5 minutes or so and try to keep them all a similar temp. The weldes ended up being great. Never had one come back.
and weld shrinkage wasnt an issue?, did you rigidly fixture them to hold it against warp when it shrank, im mostly wondering about the warp end to end not so much across the journal

-Jason
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 02:11 PM
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and weld shrinkage wasnt an issue?, did you rigidly fixture them to hold it against warp when it shrank, im mostly wondering about the warp end to end not so much across the journal
nope, and come to think of it (this was a looooong time ago for me) I used to keep the torche on it after I was done and cool it all down evenly as well. I did fixture them to a welding bench, for smaller parts. But, some of this stuff was enormous. Think of the big trucks down in the quarries. Everything was 100x bigger than normal equipment.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 03:44 PM

 
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My concern is the weld edge and dissimilar metals.
By the look of the finished crank pin dia.you must have ground it undersize to clean up the weld edge.
With no sign of sink along the welded edge. We don't have all the info.

IMHO.I'd weld the whole pin.

This crank must have thicker than stock bearings to make up for the smaller crank pin dia.If bearings are available this works.

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