racetech spring ???'s - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-24-2012, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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racetech spring ???'s

SV has racetech springs in it already. Picked up some stiffer springs (also racetech). Can the spacers already in it be used for teh stiffer ones or do you have to use different spacers each time?

I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-24-2012, 10:42 PM
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Spacers are only for preload. Are the old and new springs the same length?

If you have preload adjuster caps I suggest to install spacers that load the spring ever so slightly when you install the preload caps.

If no preload adjuster caps install spacers that give you your correct sag number.

This can all be done with the forks on the bike. However to change the fork oil you have to pull the forks.

Emulators? I suggest 4.5 - 5 full turns in on emulators.

Oil? Run 30 weight for the correct damping. The oil is everything on the stock SV forks. Once the oil is cashed the damping goes to shit.

These are just suggestions that have worked for me over the years. Others might have different suggestions

Also, if you are running emulators make sure to drill the 2 extra holes in the emulsion tube at the bottom of the fork to elimate its use. The emulator will now take care of all the rebound damping.

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Last edited by Grasshopper; 06-24-2012 at 10:50 PM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 01:11 AM

 
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
Spacers are only for preload. Are the old and new springs the same length?

If you have preload adjuster caps I suggest to install spacers that load the spring ever so slightly when you install the preload caps.

If no preload adjuster caps install spacers that give you your correct sag number.

This can all be done with the forks on the bike. However to change the fork oil you have to pull the forks.

Emulators? I suggest 4.5 - 5 full turns in on emulators.

Oil? Run 30 weight for the correct damping. The oil is everything on the stock SV forks. Once the oil is cashed the damping goes to shit.

These are just suggestions that have worked for me over the years. Others might have different suggestions

Also, if you are running emulators make sure to drill the 2 extra holes in the emulsion tube at the bottom of the fork to elimate its use. The emulator will now take care of all the rebound damping.
Was gonna change the oil anyways. Dunno when the previous owner did it last. His notes list the emulator at 2 turns and .80kg springs & 15w. Motorcycle Performance did the forks for him. I know Bills work and he does it right, but I prefer to do my own anyways (plus its a haul to madison).

Just wanted to make sure the preload spacers I can just leave as is. (theres no preload caps on 99sv's. Wish there was though). Never crossed my mid to just measure the springs. Plans are 4 turns in on the emulators and 20w. 30w is a thought though.

This is the last thing I need to do before this coming weekend. Already have the R6 throttle done. Just got the QR gas tank studs installed.

Now to find full bodywork and get rid of the old cafe stuff and the cheesey home made belly.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 09:36 AM
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QR gas tank studs? plan on having to pull the tank alot?

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 10:10 AM

 
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I agree with Nick. Most will tell you that weight oil is to heavy. But if you have big springs, the only way to compensate is heavy oil.

Get the rear end sorted as well. That for me is the most important part of a well handling SV and good lap times. I still think I could stiffen up the rear spring and could get into 16's on that old turd I ride

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