recently tried starting my bike, wouldnt start. found a video of what its doing on youtube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RRZNEtdnHo

anybody know what that could be? I'm sad =[

EDIT: charged battery, now the bikes cranking hard, but wont start =[

Battery is toast get a new one

Was it on a battery tender ?


Tom

I know mine was and it registered as green but it does the same thing. put new bat in and road away

I charged it up over night, got it to crank pretty hard, but it wont turn over.. It wasnt starting before so i changed the plugs thinking that was the problem, still not turning over..
before what it did was it started then slowly died, then didnt start again when i went to start it up in the winter one day. maybe the idle control is the problem? because it was idling at high RPMs last season, so i turned it down, is it possible i turned the idle control too low? the fuel pump is priming and im pretty sure the combustion chamber is getting fuel.. by the time i get this thing running its going to be COVERED in spiders, i just know it =[

Is the battery original?
Is the battery more than 3yrs old?
Lots of time the battery will act realitively normal, but not be able to handle the load.
Does it have an "OFF" position on the fuel petcock?

your terminology is all over the place .

cranked over =starter is spinning the motor?
turn over =the motor starting?
still not turning over then it started ?
then it didn't start again.Do you mean it wont crank over or it wont turn over or it wont start?


lets try this.
While pushing the start button the motor turns over yet wont start(run)


yes your idle setting can cause trouble.Usually it will start (run) with some throttle.

I've seen many bikes while pushing the start button turn over yet not start because of a weak battery.

Id start by charging the battery fully then cleaning and tightening the battery posts and connections.
-just saw your edit, that's a good sign.

idle set too low can make getting the engine to fire, especially when its cold, difficult if not impossible, try adding just a little bit to the idle screw, like 1/4 turn or less
is the run switch in the on position? flick it back an forth a few times then go to run and try again, I think it was the F4Is that would crank but not fire with the switch in the off position...

EGV isnt a big place i might be able to swing by and give you a hand if it keeps giving you trouble.

If he had the idle set really high last year my bet is the low speed fuel circuit needs a douche.

Ur bike is toast. I have $50 for it.

that's because a battery tender doesn't test your battery - like an Optimate.

its fuel injected

I'd buy a new battery and install it and give it a go. Sounds like the battery is toast. Just because it will crank doesn't mean the battery is good.

sorry i haven't updated guys, been kinda busy mixed with kinda lazy. maybe i should get the battery tested? anywhere that does it for free? I just don't want to put money into the bike if its not necessary. and if the batterys not the issue, im out how ever many bucks

Am I the only one that knows about AutoZone and the fact that they test batteries at no charge? Lol. And while you are there, pick up a shift key. Yours seems to be faulty.

Sorry for taking so long to reply guys, been kinda busy. Anyways, had a mechanic friend come over with his battery tester and test the battery while starting. got about 10.4 volts. Checked the coils, they work, spark plugs are brand new, and now injectors don't seem to be spraying anymore, could that be because the fuel pump has too much pressure? And anyone know if there's a fuel pressure release valve or something for it? I've been researching online for similar problems and been finding so many different answers, don't even know where to look now. =[

also for a list of possible relevant symptoms

- Bike ran really rich, gets pretty bad mileage about 90 miles a tank
- there was a coolant leak last riding season that I got rid of, but now it seems to have returned.
- Was going pretty slow on take off from stand still.
- Has a power commander II, I was told by a honda tech to disconnect it from the bike last year and that would fix the rich fuel problem, couldn't really get it come off though as the wires are wrapped pretty good with the rest of the wires, so I left it on.

If theres anything else I remember, Ill be sure to add it in later.

Thanks again guys

check tip sensor.

check that the fuel lines are truly plugged ALL the way into their quick disconnect fittings.

check the wire plug fittings.

Good luck

fuel pressure from the pump will not stop an injector, i would look at the PC2 and the relavitely low voltage of 10.4 (was that when you were cranking?)
90 miles per tank is unacceptably low, im surprised it even runs with it feeding more than double the fuel of normal.
while youre in there check all of the fuses with a meter as well as checking the stop/run switch at the handle bar

check what ressurection said as well.

I think the crank voltage was actually higher, I got a bad memory especially when all this is on my mind, should've noted it down. When my friends not busy I'll have him come back with the tester and try again.
But for an update, I emptied the fuel rail via the fuel pressure regulator, emptied it into a cut in Hal water bottle so gas wouldn't spill everywhere. Took the bottle out, and saw at the bottoms some white gel-ish looking stuff.. When gas gets old does it gel ip like that? Im gonna try and get the rail off and clean it out right now, maybe that's the issue. I'll report back soon, thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated!

Tip sensor is the bank angle sensor, correct? If so, that's properly connected. Wires seem to be all connectected
Fine after checking and rechecking. Fuel lines are getting put back on right now, well see how it what happens!

check the loose nut behind the bars

yes thats correct, bank angle and tip sensor same thing

however sometimes they can get stuck in the tipped over position, and need a little shake or light taps to recenter them, once theyve done that though its probably to have it get stuck again

gasoline does eventually gum up with age however it would take a very very long time in an enclosed and sealed environment such as a fuel rail, that could a a source of problems if it were clogging injectors but with your previous MPG being so low I wouldn't put high priority on clogged injectors at the moment.


if the voltage while cranking is 10.4 or better that sshould be good then

had a early busa come in on a flatbed one day when i was still at OC suz , it was 5 yrs old with less than 200 mi on it, rich owner was scared of it, let it sit for a few years, wouldnt run, fuel was gelled in the pump/ needed new pump and battery, and me to do high speed runs on it up n down PCH/newport blvd once it was running

Okay so update, took the battery to batteries plus to get it checked (again) and the voltage tested fine, I asked him if his load tester tested amps, and he said no. So I asked the guy there if I could buy the battery and if that's not the problem return it. Guy says he needs to ask his manager, manager came out, used a different tester to test cranking amps (which kinda pissed me off because it was right next to the original volt tester) and it failed. So now I've got a new battery in the bike charging. We'll see how this turns out in a little bit. Ill keep you guys updated!

on my 600rr I had a very similar issue.....I took out the power commander and it ran good. Sent to Dynojet corp and they replaced for free.....then tried to out run Kegger.....

so..... was it the battery like most said

Also food for thought remove the PC get it started then rhook the PC. had that issue with mine PC decided to just go crazy.

Nope, it was exactly what butch said.. Stupid fucking power commander. I dont even wanna talk about it! lol >=O

OH by the way thank all you guys for your help!