How to Wheelie? - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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How to Wheelie?

General question - on a bike that wants to spin the rear tire what is the best way to get the front end in the air? I know of a number of methods, but want to know what really works best. Any other tips?
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 08:06 AM
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use less throttle.




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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 08:31 AM
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how old are your tires?

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 08:32 AM
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 08:33 AM
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What kind of bike?
post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 08:43 AM
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Get your weight further back on the rear. What the hell are you on? A harley? Sounds like you droppin the clutch in first gear. BAD IDEA. Your going to end up on your back if thats the case.

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 08:51 AM
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I used to have the 600 version of your bike. It was a wheelie monster. Get back on the seat cruise in first gear at about 7-8k rpm. Let off the gas quick and when the engine boggs and compresses the forks...slap the gas back on loosen those elbows and let the front end float up.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crazy
I used to have the 600 version of your bike. It was a wheelie monster. Get back on the seat cruise in first gear at about 7-8k rpm. Let off the gas quick and when the engine boggs and compresses the forks...slap the gas back on loosen those elbows and let the front end float up.
That is about the most perfect way to do it in first gear. thats the way I learned many moons ago. Now I use the clutch most of the time. But crazys way is much safer.




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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 09:01 AM
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I consider some sticky tires like the D208's or BT012's. Unless you have a Busa you shouldn't be spinning that rear tire. IMHO


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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 09:03 AM
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Dave,

I don't think your bike has the ponies but you can give it a shot in second if first gear is too twitchy. You basically do the same thing but you need to kinda bounce down on the pegs when the forks compress to help it along a little. You'll probably be cruising in second at about 50-55 before ya let the gas off. If that doesn't work you can slam on the gas and feather the clutch out.

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 09:26 AM
Old bikes RULE! RIDE ONE!
 
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Make sure you practice in a large, unoccupied parking lot, with someone who can help get you home if you fall. Better yet, find someone with an old dirt bike that will let you practice on grass or dirt. The technique has been clearly laid out by Crazy. You can also increase the number of teeth on the rear sprocket by 2 or 3 teeth which will help wheelie but raise the engine rpm at your normal riding speeds.

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 09:52 AM
freaking newbies, man there slow, ha ha ha
 
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I actually have an instructional wheelie video. I can send it if ya like.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 09:58 AM
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Tire pressure?
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 10:02 AM
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When doing wheelies, stoppies, burn outs,

Tire pressure is very critical.

Less pressure in the rear will make the back end hook up better...hence front end lifts off. Less tire pressure in the front and more in the rear helps to be able to do a rolling burn out or a stoppie.
post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 10:02 AM
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Too much pressure in the front and the front end will slide out when doing a stoppie or a rolling burn out
post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 10:05 AM
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I would just keep your tires properly inflated unless you decide to become a harcore stunna. There are too many other intances on the street where proper inflation is beneficial and wheelies and stoppies can still be done with proper inflation.

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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nickbob43
Tire pressure is very critical.
That's why I'm surprised no one mentioned earlier....
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crazy
I would just keep your tires properly inflated unless you decide to become a harcore stunna. There are too many other intances on the street where proper inflation is beneficial and wheelies and stoppies can still be done with proper inflation.
I agree, that's why I didn't want to get into details. But a lot of people run what it says on the sidewalls for max load. Could be the problem, because it's generally too high for optimum traction.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crazy
I would just keep your tires properly inflated unless you decide to become a harcore stunna. There are too many other intances on the street where proper inflation is beneficial and wheelies and stoppies can still be done with proper inflation.
Well crazy, at least we know your crazy (are you really crazy?) and not stupid like some of us. (ME).
post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jack
I agree, that's why I didn't want to get into details. But a lot of people run what it says on the sidewalls for max load. Could be the problem, because it's generally too high for optimum traction.

Your probably right Jack.....I didn't think about that being it's an older bike and may have an older tire that may not have the sticky factor that new tires have. Even still though if the tire is not worn and there is enough heat in it that front end should come up, but you can try letting a little pressure out

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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nickbob43
Well crazy, at least we know your crazy (are you really crazy?) and not stupid like some of us. (ME).


All I can say is..........I'm not a stunna. I can bring the front end up but I'm not the guy you see riding one out for 1/4 or longer. Trust me I've seen plenty of guys ride wheelies for length on properly inflated tires. Then when we hit the twisties they were ready and had no problems cause their tires weren't under inflated.

Bare in mind the importance of low speed maneuvers on the street. Thats why they teach you that stuff in MSF. Underinflated tires just inhibit the bikes ability to do that stuff. Not to mention do all sorts of funky things to your tires as far as wear goes.

Now If I decided to go to a secret spot and work on being an icy hot stunna crankin' out slow twelves.....I'd more than like put some race take offs on and lower the pressure to give a little added help.

The name Crazy's been with me for a long time. Mostly from the squidly moves I used to pull when I was younger. I may be a bit Crazy still, but I guess not as much as I used to be.

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jack
But a lot of people run what it says on the sidewalls for max load.
Yep, I've even had guys working at tire dealerships inflate to that pressure on my Corvette and I'm like WTF???

I know some guys think that's the pressure you're supposed to use but it's really way high.

Dave
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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My 85 FZ750. It has, if I remember correctly, Dunlop K591Rs (race compound). The older bikes were a bit long in wheel base, and I think the older FZs had more weight on the front tire. I can lay 30 foot stripes with the rear, but there is no hint (without any kind of help) that the front will lift. The seat was long ago replaced with a solo sear so sliding back isn't really possible. I replaced the seat after a hard launch left me with only two fingers on the left bar, it almost slipped through my fingers. If you don't work the clutch/throttle right the motor will bog, if you work them right the rear spins.

I have often wondered what the correct technique is, I figured one way was to grab the front brake at 20 MPH, compress the front end, release with a bunch of throttle.

I have used both a larger rear sprocket along with a smaller front one, just makes it easier to spin the rear (along with less time to shift into second).

Can someone elaborate on the second gear comment? What would second do?

Should I bounce on the pegs or pull up on the bars?

Last edited by Need4Speed; 06-13-2003 at 12:24 PM.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveGroe
My 85 FZ750. It has, if I remember correctly, Dunlop K591Rs (race compound). The older bikes were a bit long in wheel base, and I think the older FZs had more weight on the front tire. I can lay 30 foot stripes with the rear, but there is no hing (without any kind of help) that the front will lift. The seat was long ago replaced with a solo sear so sliding back isn't really possible. I replaced the seat after a hard launch left me with only two fingers on the left bar, it almost slipped through my fingers. If you don't work the clutch/throttle right the motor will bog, if you work them right the rear spins.

I have often wondered what the correct technique is, I figured one way was to grab the front brake at 20 MPH, compress the front end, release with a bunch of throttle.

I have used both a larger sprocket along with a smaller front one, just makes it easier to spin the rear (along with less time to shift into second).

Can someone elaborate on the second gear comment? What would second do?

Should I bounce on the pegs or pull up on the bars?

Dave,

you don't need to hit the front brake. I know that bike is a pig but trust me it can be done. Solo seat isn't an issue either. just put your butt right up against that back rest. One thing I'm thinkin is you may have a bad clutch and or springs. If it's the clutch is slipping it may feathering out too much and causing tire spin. Try not using the clutch at all.....it's 10x safer and easier on the bike anyway. Just cruise at 7-8k rpm and let the throttle loose, wait till the forks compress and snap it back on. Don't pull on the bars.....just leave your arms loose and work the throttle. If you pull or stiffin' your arms your body will tip backwards and you'll get a survival reaction to let off the throttle cause your body will be telling you that your tipping over backward. Bring the bars into your body it'll feel more natural.

Second gear is no different except your going much faster. I use second cause the R1 has ZERO forgiveness in 1st gear. You should be ok with the FZ. You can use the bounce in first or second to help it along, but again it's all about timing. ounce you get the sequence down you'll be amazed how it comes up. ON the R1 I can cruise at 80-90 in 3rd..let it compress....bounce for help and it comes right up. Now your FZ isn't going to do that but that is the basic idea.

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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 12:38 PM
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One more thing Dave,

I used to be able to bring the front end of my '92 GSXR 750 up. The bike was slammed 3 inches off the ground and had a 3 inch stretch. I kept the suspension so tight that the tail barely budged if you jumped up and down on the passenger seat. Trust me.......unless there is a problem with the bike the FZ will come up.

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-13-2003, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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The bike came with a stiff suspension setup that feels really good, and I am not a big goy.

Last edited by Need4Speed; 06-13-2003 at 12:54 PM.
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