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Racing in 2006

1K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  jimzx9r 
#1 ·
I want to start dragging this year and wanted to know how many people on hear go regularly to the strip.....I need someone to show me the ropes. Also what are the costs and minimum requirements??
 
#3 ·
Drag strip for now.......being a full time student I can't afford track days with my part time job so the strip will have to satisfy my itch for speed. I do have prior drag racing experience from back home but from what I understand it's a totally different ballgame here in the US.
 
#5 ·
Unless you're running in the 9's, you don't need full leathers (it goes without saying that 'more is better', but the requirements are pretty easy).

Helmet, jacket, gloves and boots - and a chain guard.
 
#6 ·
If the bike is stock you don't have to worry about failing tech. Some places will require a tether, but GLD never checked me for that. Cost depends where you go, usually around $20 a night...but it changes depending what day it is and if they have events running.

If you really want to get into it and get the bike to launch hard, get lowering links for the rear, strap the front, and gear the sprockets down.

I don't know if you know how the waterbox and tree work...but when you're rolling up to do your burnout, go around the water. The waterbox is for slick tires only. If you roll your bike through it you'll piss everyone off and they'll have to mop it up. If you want to do a burnout, do it after the waterbox, closer to the starting line. But don't pull a squid move and do a giant rolling burnout on your stock bike. 5 seconds max is all it takes to clean up a street tire and put some heat in it.

For the tree, you don't actually start right next to it. First timers do this all the time. There's a box about 15-20 feet in front of the tree that has beams that your tires set off. Roll up and get your front tire in the first beam...one of the little yellow pre stage lights on the tree will light up to show you made it. Roll another inch or so and you'll set the second set of small yellow lights, now you're staged. If you're racing against someone else, don't set the second stage beam until they have at least set the first beam. Now the tree is ready to go. There are 3 yellow lights, each one will light up, one after the next. Launch that sum bitch on the 3rd yellow, do not wait for the green. The green lights up a half second after the last yellow, so you'll leave at the same time it's green with a perfect .500 reaction time. If you jump and go sooner, you get a red light. The green and red don't even matter if you're just racing for an ET, and you can actually wait as long as you want if you're not comfortable...because reaction time isn't factored into the ET anyway.

Be very careful launching the bike at the track the first couple of times. The surface is like glue compared to the regular street. Your r6 won't spin at all on a well prepped track...and will shoot you right for the sky if you're expecting to launch it like you do on the street.
 
#8 ·
If you're dragging knee on the drag strip... you got bigger problems Ash!
 
#9 ·
KBOlsen said:
Unless you're running in the 9's, you don't need full leathers (it goes without saying that 'more is better', but the requirements are pretty easy).

Helmet, jacket, gloves and boots - and a chain guard.
Did they change this? Used to be running in the 10's required a tether and speeds over 120mph required full leathers. GLD may be more relaxed than Rt. 66. 66 requires a Snell2000 helmet, not just DOT. Running in the 9's will require a NHRA license. And Rt. 66 required leather jacket, textile was not acceptable.
 
#12 ·
I go all the time. Mostly to byron T&T and the 2wheelspeed events. I'd be more then happy to show ya the ropes and some cheap parts to buy to have a quicker e.t. I go with about 10 other ppl. A leather jacket and gloves are a must. I suggest pants and some type of boots. Lower the bike with some dog bones and either silde the forks up a little bit or a strap ( for track use only). Any questions just post them up.
 
#13 ·
Thanks everyone for the great info..... I will join you guys (Mopar & twistedspeed) when the racing starts.....if you guys don't mind me tagging along.
Also some more info about lowering the bikes will be greatly appreciated
:)wonder dog bones:wonder straps:wonder)
 
#14 ·
Straps attach to a brake caliper mounting bolt, then run up along the rear of one side of the fork, over the triple tree, then down the side of the other fork and attach to the other caliper mounting bolt. You then ratchet the straps tight to lock out the front suspension and slam the front end down. You can get them for $20-30.

Dog bones change the rear suspension geometry by lengthening the linkage, allowing the bike to sit lower. They're $30-150 depending on which ones you go with. Some are cheap and cut out of aluminum, others are really nice and fully adjustable while they're on the bike.

And opening weekend...eeesh. I went a few years ago and managed to get 3 runs in all day.
 
#15 ·
Jim is correct the dog bones are what lower the bike in back and straps are for the front. Your more welcome to tag along anytime. Let me know when your ready to lower the bike I usually have some extra dog bones and straps layin around if not I can get you a set for a fair price. The track opens in april and i will be heading almost every weekend after that.
 
#17 ·
Thanks twisted....I will need to work around my work schedule so I will let you know atleast two weeks in advance of the days that I will be able to make it. will do my best to make it on the opening weekend.
 
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