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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-14-2010, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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RRA LAR15 question

A question to RRA LAR15 owners who have done this procedure. I'm trying to replace the end plate with one with a sling stud for a single point sling but I'm having a hard time removing the original end plate that I'm scratching the heck out of it. The castle nut just won't budge that I broke one of the teeth of my castle nut wrench. Is there something I'm missing here? I didn't have a problem removing one from a DPMS before. Thanks.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-14-2010, 09:51 AM
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The Castle nut is staked, which is why they don't just come off. you have to correct this first before you can remove the buttstock.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-14-2010, 09:53 AM
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It might be staked in place (look for a pinch where they took a punch and pinched the metal with a hammer). Or they could have used locktight. Or you maybe got a shit castlenut tool.

If it's been staked in place, you'll just have to break it free. If it's been loktighted, you'll have to heat it to turn the loktight back to liquid, then wrench it off...or you could come by my place and I have a good castlenut tool.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-14-2010, 02:50 PM
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The Castle nut is staked, which is why they don't just come off. you have to correct this first before you can remove the buttstock.
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It might be staked in place (look for a pinch where they took a punch and pinched the metal with a hammer). Or they could have used locktight. Or you maybe got a shit castlenut tool.

If it's been staked in place, you'll just have to break it free. If it's been loktighted, you'll have to heat it to turn the loktight back to liquid, then wrench it off...or you could come by my place and I have a good castlenut tool.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-14-2010, 03:47 PM
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Re: RRA LAR15 question

Not sure of anyone mentioned it, buy the castle nut is staked.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Hello again. Castle nut does not appear to be staked. I tried to heat treatment but still won't budge ( I put it directly on stove fire ). Probably Dremmel it next. Thanks.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 03:40 PM
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Hello again. Castle nut does not appear to be staked. I tried to heat treatment but still won't budge ( I put it directly on stove fire ). Probably Dremmel it next. Thanks.
Careful you don't fuck up the threads. Remember, an AR receiver is aluminum.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 03:52 PM
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Careful you don't fuck up the threads. Remember, an AR receiver is aluminum.
Word, if you can't get it, go to a gunsmith. A whole hell of a lot easier than fucking up a lower and having to buy a new one and transfer an LPK.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 05:08 PM
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where are you located?

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 05:29 PM
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Get it over to Ponch, before you ruin the buffer tube.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 05:37 PM
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I think he's up near Elgin, a bit of a trip from you Henderson.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 05:47 PM
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Ya.. I'm not drivingto elgin to break a castle nut free. POst pics of the nut along with teh tool your using. If it's a cheapy wrench you might not be biting into the castle nut and coming right off it. If your leaving scratches behind on teh nut your tools is no good.
If the gun is factory it should have stake marks and also as stated sometimes they use loc-tite on them. I would use a hair dryer to heat it up NOT open flame. that is unless you have an actual heat gun.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2010, 07:34 AM
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You can bring it by me, if you can't get it figured out and Ponch is too far. Let me know.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-17-2010, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I might be going to a match this weekend and won't have time to fix it if I break anything. I'll just use a 2 point sling for now. I will post pics or take it to one of you guys. BTW Ponch, it is factory. Thanks again.
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