buddys harley problem...who can help? - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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buddys harley problem...who can help?

well easy way to explain this is where the oil filter gets screwed on...and then the oil sensor below it...well he overtightened the oil sensor and it cracked the alum block with a hair line crack....POOR enginering in my eyes by harley...but here is the pickle...its leaking oil from both the filter cause of the crack and also from the sensor location casue the crack goes all the way from the sensor hole to the filter location....

any 1 know if this can be fixed or is 1 side or the motor cassing gonna have to be replaced?
its alum so it can be welded more then likely...but its in a sensitive area...

...plus my gf was with me saying "omg slow down, slow down" and I was thinking "Lose annoying squalk box in passenger seat, afford more mods and have less weight in the car and on the back of the bike"...so i dumped her and I'm single again as usual...HERE KITTY KITTY!!!
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 03:20 PM
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderstruck
well easy way to explain this is where the oil filter gets screwed on...and then the oil sensor below it...well he overtightened the oil sensor and it cracked the alum block with a hair line crack....POOR enginering in my eyes by harley...but here is the pickle...its leaking oil from both the filter cause of the crack and also from the sensor location casue the crack goes all the way from the sensor hole to the filter location....

any 1 know if this can be fixed or is 1 side or the motor cassing gonna have to be replaced?
its alum so it can be welded more then likely...but its in a sensitive area...
WOW!!! thats not a good situation. buy the extened warenty and then take it in and tell them you dont knwo what happened.

It may be time to replace that half of the engine case. while your in there and since you have to split the cases he should just go ahead and put in a 103 kit.




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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 04:13 PM
This show is 'Rated NC17'
 
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Huh. . . don't know how to fix that. Never happened on my Honda.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 05:17 PM
i need a new bike, this one is trashed
 
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you can try jbweld for a quick fix.

But can you blame harley for someone overtorquing a bolt? Majority of engines today are coming out aluminum. If you overtorque the plugs, or head bolts then you just messed your engine up.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderstruck
POOR enginering in my eyes by harley...
How can you say "Poor engineering"??? That's rediculous. He muscled in the sensor and spread the case till it cracked. It's aluminiun!!! Duh......

Cases can be rewelded, but only by a professional that knows how to weld a MC case. Not just any welder will do. If this is a newer bike I'd go with a new case. If it's an old bike and to want to keep the original numbers, weld.

JB weld will temporarily plug a leak but is has little to no structural integrity.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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well...he was not smart to pay attention to the part that was alum....and i think you guys are right and just buy a new right side case...its a newer bike...he's not gonna be happy about it...but i dont think there will be an easy fix to this...

...plus my gf was with me saying "omg slow down, slow down" and I was thinking "Lose annoying squalk box in passenger seat, afford more mods and have less weight in the car and on the back of the bike"...so i dumped her and I'm single again as usual...HERE KITTY KITTY!!!
Quote:
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pussy is the root of all evil...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunny View Post
mmmm pussy
You dont like me....i dont give a fuck...cause i'll still put ya in the hospital...me tollerating you is all that matters...
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 07:54 PM
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trade it in gor a new one!

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 08:38 PM
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Torque wrenches can be had for $20.00 at harborfreighttools.com a service manual, maybe at the most $30. If a hack like me can wrench, and not F things up, anyone should be able too. I have used JB Weld to repair a number of things, with good sucess. The last time was repairing an oil leak, lasted until I sold the vehicle.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 08:43 PM
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If you clean the area properly the JB weld will be all you need and will last for a long time. I had a Honda throw the chain and blow out the side of the engine case - a few hours later I was up and running again and last I heard it is still running strong 10k later. The key to it all is good surface prep - lots of acetone or denatured alcohol and making sure everything is completely oil free.

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 09:01 PM
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What I want to know is how did he managed to crack aluminum. Last time I checked if you are screwing a bolt into an aluminum and you over tighten it, all you are going to do is break a thread. It is either I am way outdated on my engeniring background, it has been more then 15 year, or something does not add up here.

Last year body of mine over tighten his oil pan in the Katana, alluminum pan, all he did was striped the thread. It was holding the bolt, but slowly dripping oil. I wonder if the crack you see is not the type of the crack that you thing it is and it is just siping oil from th thread itself?

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 09:27 PM
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There is this stuff called alumirod (sp?), it allows you to weld with a propane torch. It should be able to fix the problem. You would just heat the cases and the alumirod would get sucked into the crack. Cheap fix but I can't be certain it will work as I don't have a lot of experience with this type of thing, I have a torque wrench,

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 11:02 PM
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Oil sensor is, I believe, a 1/8-27 tapered pipe thread. Normal threads will pull out most often, but the taper acts as a wedge and can cause cracks fairly easily.

Alumaloy might work. The problem is that it requires you to get the surrounding area to a very high temperature. It's tough to use the stuff when working with thicker aluminum sections because it wicks away the heat so fast it's hard to ever get it up to temperatures at which the alumaloy will bond with the base metal. Worth a try, though.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2005, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jschaffer
Alumaloy might work. The problem is that it requires you to get the surrounding area to a very high temperature. It's tough to use the stuff when working with thicker aluminum sections because it wicks away the heat so fast it's hard to ever get it up to temperatures at which the alumaloy will bond with the base metal. Worth a try, though.
What if the bike was to be run at idle for a while to get the cases nice and saturated with heat, would that help any?

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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^---that would work....but then its still has to be cleaned cause the oil is leaking through 2 spots...so by the time you got that cleaned up....its back to a cold temp again...best bet for him is just to replace the case in my book...i didnt bring my camera with when i went to go look at it...but im sure this is a known issue with harleys...he just didnt know cause its was his 1st harley...

...plus my gf was with me saying "omg slow down, slow down" and I was thinking "Lose annoying squalk box in passenger seat, afford more mods and have less weight in the car and on the back of the bike"...so i dumped her and I'm single again as usual...HERE KITTY KITTY!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arch View Post
pussy is the root of all evil...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunny View Post
mmmm pussy
You dont like me....i dont give a fuck...cause i'll still put ya in the hospital...me tollerating you is all that matters...
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. D
There is this stuff called alumirod (sp?), it allows you to weld with a propane torch. It should be able to fix the problem. You would just heat the cases and the alumirod would get sucked into the crack. Cheap fix but I can't be certain it will work as I don't have a lot of experience with this type of thing, I have a torque wrench,
I use that all the time, love the stuff, I think Sloroll has used it also. Problem with that method, is the casing acts as one huge assed heat sink, so you'll go thru at least 20 lbs of propane heating the repair area to the proper temparture. You'll need to use an oxy/acly torches to heat the area, and if you don't know what your doing, you'll cause even more problems. Second the entire area will have to be super clean, and the only way I see that happening is removal of the casing involved.

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 08:08 AM
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Remove all traces of oil from the crack with brake cleaner and compressed air, and seal with loctite wick and lock (290). It is made for this application and I have used it to seal cracks in steel and aluminum castings. As long as there is no stress trying to spread the crack, it will work.

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo...icking%20Grade
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 09:08 AM
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Just go on ebay and buy a new right side case. Its not that hard to rebuild a harley motor. its air cooled which is 100% easier already.


If you try and repair it its gonna look like ass. and good luck selling it with a weld line running down the motor casing.




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