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Bike vs Winter...

5K views 39 replies 18 participants last post by  RMarcil34 
#1 ·
I was simply wondering how often should I ride the bike through winter if I'm not "putting it away" for the winter? Obviously there will be times with snow, salt, etc. where it'll sit for a week or two, but is riding it for 10-20 miles once a week enough to keep the fluids, tires, etc in good shape?

As long as there's no snow and 30-35*+ out there I'm fine with riding so I figure I'll get to take it out at least once or twice a week. When it's not out it'll be cleaned up, sealed/waxed and under a cover, on stands.
 
#5 ·
Yea I know but I also don't "need" to change the oil for about 30k miles or more. I just want to do what's best like we all do.

Don't start the bike unless your going to ride long enough to burn off the condensation.

starting the bike stone cold is the worst thing you'll ever do to your bike.
Definitely won't be doing that. I guess that's where my question comes from... how long is long enough to burn off condensation and how often should it be done through winter.

Also, I know running it through gears on the stands isn't the same as there's little to no resistance, but is it worth it at all?
 
#3 ·
Don't start the bike unless your going to ride long enough to burn off the condensation.

starting the bike stone cold is the worst thing you'll ever do to your bike.
 
#4 ·
Just pull the battery and be done with it. Why bother with the rest? If you're one to push the limits with the weather, meaning the bike won't sit for more than a few months I wouldn't even say that Stabil is absolutely necessary, though it's good insurance for $10.
 
#6 ·
I plan on disconnecting the battery when I know it'll sit for more than 4-5 days but I want to avoid doing anything further since I will be riding it through winter anyway.. figured might as well ride it often enough to not bother with any winter storage prep that's all.
 
#8 ·
If you're going to ride it. Ride it. You don't worry about your car this much when it's cold.

If you don't need or want to ride it.

Put stabilizer in the tank. Get a battery tender. Park the bike wood to get it off the concrete or put it on stands if you can. If not. Don't sweat it.
 
#9 ·
Not to sound like an ass but are you new to chicago. 30-35+ only riding will get you riding maybe once every 2-3 weeks in the average chicago winter. Last i remember i thought chicago is typically 20-30.

IMO do what gkotlin said, Stabil the tank, battery tender on bike. and park it on wood or ive used a thicker hallway runner to get it off the cold concrete and call it a season.
 
#11 ·
time required to burn off condensation will vary from bike to bike and by how cold it is outside... that said, I would say it needs to get up to full normal operating temp for at least 15 mins to drive off the moisture

these bikes werent designed to operate at these temps and like gus said the startup will be especially hard on t he engine and moving parts of the bike... the lubrication system will be sluggish to get oil to where its needed and the fitment of the engine parts will be further off then normal causing increased wear until things get warmed up
 
#15 · (Edited)
i used to ride through December often for about 10 years.
If the streets were dry and it was above 30 I would typically ride to work or do small errands on the bike.
This was more of a daily driver then a bike to look good so it was a little tired when I sold it (Goldwing)

Leading up to this:
The salt oxidizes the aluminum and unpainted surfaces.
If this does not matter to you Get some warm gear and just ride, If it does make sure and wash it right after your ride.

Same about the salt /oxidation goes if you are transporting a bike on a Mototote/bike carrier on the highway in the winter.

Good luck,
"D"
:cheers
 
#17 ·
So is it simply best to just put it away until March/April?

I like to ride through winter because I like riding, and I make sure to ride only when it's clean outside and no salt on the roads. I do still clean it up after every ride so I'm not too worried about that. Now I'm worried about starting it in the cold, but I'm assuming warming up the garage a bit (just insulated & drywalled everything) then starting the bike would be fine.

Decisions decisions.

In case I do decide to just park it for a few months (which I really don't see myself doing since I know I'll want to jump on it a few times a month when the sun pops out and roads are clear) does anyone have a link to a good set of winter storage instructions?
 
#20 ·
In case I do decide to just park it for a few months (which I really don't see myself doing since I know I'll want to jump on it a few times a month when the sun pops out and roads are clear) does anyone have a link to a good set of winter storage instructions?
Check your sig. :laughing:
 
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#18 ·
the salt never really goes away during the winter and it gets friggin everywhere.

and even if its a warm winter day with some snow melting that just means youre riding in salted water thats spraying everywhere on your bike into places not really washable.the tires are also gonna be rock hard from the cold as will the suspension, all adds up to additional handicapping placed on the bike and its rider.

as for storage, I keep mine in climate controlled conditions it get a fresh oil change just before storage and i top the gas off in the tank so there is as little exposed metal in the tank as possible and that all i do... come march or so ill go get the bikes and so far theyve started right up for me.
 
#19 ·
I can't get it into a climate controlled area but my insulated garage should suffice... However, temps in the garage will change from roughly outside temp to 50-60* whenever I do any detailing work or car work in the garage. Any issues with that?
 
#23 ·
Just store the Dam thing. U had issues starting your zzr why take the chance during winter of screwing it up. Keep in mind no one will be looking for bikes for obvious reason weigh the pros and cons and listen to what most have said call it quits for the season
 
#28 ·
Ok this will sound anal.

But you mentioned heating the garage now and then.This will also cause a rain forest in the tank and the crankcase.
Filling the tank completely will help there but after you get the garage up to temp, notice the sweat line on the engine case.This is your main concern as the inside of the engine will be dripping condensation.
I understand this leaves most people without a climate controlled storage place in a bad way. I'm just trying to help you understand the trouble stems from heat fluctuation.
 
#31 ·
+1 with nouse

the engine is basically a closed box as long as youre not running it with those temp swings you wont really get much if any condensation in it, putting it under a cover like a dowco would help to minimize this even more by limiting the amount of fresh air and thusly moisture getting near the bike but the opening at the bottom allows the moisture to not accumulate

flushing the gas tank is absurd but if youre going to do i can i have the waste gas after each? fill it up cover it up adn forget it
 
#32 ·
I will try to make this simple.

Your thinking to damn much.

Stable,full tank of gas,battery tender, park it.......
 
#36 ·
Merry Christmas
 
#39 ·
I would recommend getting the TES cover from TES Products online.
I bought one for bike in my garage and for one outside. This cover is incredible as it is a total enclosure system, you ride on zip it up and it has a port hole to run a trickle charger without anything getting in. 100% waterproof, dust proof, filtered vent holes, lined, lockable and easily stuffed into backpack or saddlebag. Best investment I have ever made!
 

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