Bike vs Winter... - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Bike vs Winter...

I was simply wondering how often should I ride the bike through winter if I'm not "putting it away" for the winter? Obviously there will be times with snow, salt, etc. where it'll sit for a week or two, but is riding it for 10-20 miles once a week enough to keep the fluids, tires, etc in good shape?

As long as there's no snow and 30-35*+ out there I'm fine with riding so I figure I'll get to take it out at least once or twice a week. When it's not out it'll be cleaned up, sealed/waxed and under a cover, on stands.

-Ivan
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 10:10 AM
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You do not need to ride it.

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 10:13 AM

 
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Don't start the bike unless your going to ride long enough to burn off the condensation.

starting the bike stone cold is the worst thing you'll ever do to your bike.

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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 10:22 AM
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Just pull the battery and be done with it. Why bother with the rest? If you're one to push the limits with the weather, meaning the bike won't sit for more than a few months I wouldn't even say that Stabil is absolutely necessary, though it's good insurance for $10.

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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gsd656 View Post
You do not need to ride it.
Yea I know but I also don't "need" to change the oil for about 30k miles or more. I just want to do what's best like we all do.

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Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
Don't start the bike unless your going to ride long enough to burn off the condensation.

starting the bike stone cold is the worst thing you'll ever do to your bike.
Definitely won't be doing that. I guess that's where my question comes from... how long is long enough to burn off condensation and how often should it be done through winter.

Also, I know running it through gears on the stands isn't the same as there's little to no resistance, but is it worth it at all?

-Ivan
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Just pull the battery and be done with it. Why bother with the rest? If you're one to push the limits with the weather, meaning the bike won't sit for more than a few months I wouldn't even say that Stabil is absolutely necessary, though it's good insurance for $10.
I plan on disconnecting the battery when I know it'll sit for more than 4-5 days but I want to avoid doing anything further since I will be riding it through winter anyway.. figured might as well ride it often enough to not bother with any winter storage prep that's all.

-Ivan
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 10:30 AM
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Ah, well if you're riding it then you really don't have to do anything at all.

Tom

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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 10:36 AM

 
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If you're going to ride it. Ride it. You don't worry about your car this much when it's cold.

If you don't need or want to ride it.

Put stabilizer in the tank. Get a battery tender. Park the bike wood to get it off the concrete or put it on stands if you can. If not. Don't sweat it.

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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 11:28 AM
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Not to sound like an ass but are you new to chicago. 30-35+ only riding will get you riding maybe once every 2-3 weeks in the average chicago winter. Last i remember i thought chicago is typically 20-30.

IMO do what gkotlin said, Stabil the tank, battery tender on bike. and park it on wood or ive used a thicker hallway runner to get it off the cold concrete and call it a season.

Everyone needs a healthy way to relax, mine Church, and two wheels, a stretch of winding road, and a pipe loud enough to give me headaches and make squirrels explode. (Fixed curtousey of PWRMAD)

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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 11:34 AM
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Hey I used to brave the cold...with each passing year my temperature tolerance went up and up

...anybody want a whole bunch of heated gear?

Tom

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post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 11:44 AM
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time required to burn off condensation will vary from bike to bike and by how cold it is outside... that said, I would say it needs to get up to full normal operating temp for at least 15 mins to drive off the moisture

these bikes werent designed to operate at these temps and like gus said the startup will be especially hard on t he engine and moving parts of the bike... the lubrication system will be sluggish to get oil to where its needed and the fitment of the engine parts will be further off then normal causing increased wear until things get warmed up

-Jason
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post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 12:23 PM
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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 01:51 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cerk View Post
Hey I used to brave the cold...with each passing year my temperature tolerance went up and up

...anybody want a whole bunch of heated gear?
yes! I could have used it all weekend deer hunting. it felt like 15 degrees below zero all day saturday.
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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 01:54 PM
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Ha, you better lug around a battery with my stuff

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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 02:08 PM
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i used to ride through December often for about 10 years.
If the streets were dry and it was above 30 I would typically ride to work or do small errands on the bike.
This was more of a daily driver then a bike to look good so it was a little tired when I sold it (Goldwing)

Leading up to this:
The salt oxidizes the aluminum and unpainted surfaces.
If this does not matter to you Get some warm gear and just ride, If it does make sure and wash it right after your ride.

Same about the salt /oxidation goes if you are transporting a bike on a Mototote/bike carrier on the highway in the winter.

Good luck,
"D"


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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
Don't start the bike unless your going to ride long enough to burn off the condensation.

starting the bike stone cold is the worst thing you'll ever do to your bike.
+1000! (condensation and corrosion)
Rapid temp changes will add a nice coating of corrosion on cylinder walls and valve seats. A few times won't hurt but continued starting in cold weather and you'll actually be able to see the corrosion.
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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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So is it simply best to just put it away until March/April?

I like to ride through winter because I like riding, and I make sure to ride only when it's clean outside and no salt on the roads. I do still clean it up after every ride so I'm not too worried about that. Now I'm worried about starting it in the cold, but I'm assuming warming up the garage a bit (just insulated & drywalled everything) then starting the bike would be fine.

Decisions decisions.

In case I do decide to just park it for a few months (which I really don't see myself doing since I know I'll want to jump on it a few times a month when the sun pops out and roads are clear) does anyone have a link to a good set of winter storage instructions?

-Ivan
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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 03:14 PM
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the salt never really goes away during the winter and it gets friggin everywhere.

and even if its a warm winter day with some snow melting that just means youre riding in salted water thats spraying everywhere on your bike into places not really washable.the tires are also gonna be rock hard from the cold as will the suspension, all adds up to additional handicapping placed on the bike and its rider.

as for storage, I keep mine in climate controlled conditions it get a fresh oil change just before storage and i top the gas off in the tank so there is as little exposed metal in the tank as possible and that all i do... come march or so ill go get the bikes and so far theyve started right up for me.

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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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the salt never really goes away during the winter and it gets friggin everywhere.

and even if its a warm winter day with some snow melting that just means youre riding in salted water thats spraying everywhere on your bike into places not really washable.the tires are also gonna be rock hard from the cold as will the suspension, all adds up to additional handicapping placed on the bike and its rider.

as for storage, I keep mine in climate controlled conditions it get a fresh oil change just before storage and i top the gas off in the tank so there is as little exposed metal in the tank as possible and that all i do... come march or so ill go get the bikes and so far theyve started right up for me.
I can't get it into a climate controlled area but my insulated garage should suffice... However, temps in the garage will change from roughly outside temp to 50-60* whenever I do any detailing work or car work in the garage. Any issues with that?

-Ivan
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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lecchilo View Post

In case I do decide to just park it for a few months (which I really don't see myself doing since I know I'll want to jump on it a few times a month when the sun pops out and roads are clear) does anyone have a link to a good set of winter storage instructions?
Check your sig.

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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 03:24 PM
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temp swings cause condensation, specifically cold to warm, but just sitting there it wouldnt be an issue at all

-Jason
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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Check your sig.


I trust people here more than random people online posing DIYs when it comes to stuff like this. I've looked and have a pretty good idea of what's needed.

I just can't seem to decide for good to store it for 4 months because we have plenty of days with sun, decent temps and no/minimum salt on the roads. That and my garage will be heated up every now and then... I guess I'll make the decision when snow falls this weekend haha

-Ivan
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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 03:43 PM
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Just store the Dam thing. U had issues starting your zzr why take the chance during winter of screwing it up. Keep in mind no one will be looking for bikes for obvious reason weigh the pros and cons and listen to what most have said call it quits for the season

go time traveler style and go back in time, fuck his grandma, then shoot forward in time and then fuck his mom. Then return back to present state and call him a the product of two incest whores and hes your son and show video of you plowing the both members of his family. .
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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lecchilo View Post


I trust people here more than ...
doesn't look like it or you are just having problems with reading comprehension.

Greg

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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Just store the Dam thing. U had issues starting your zzr why take the chance during winter of screwing it up. Keep in mind no one will be looking for bikes for obvious reason weigh the pros and cons and listen to what most have said call it quits for the season
I had trouble with the zzr because of me knowing little about bikes and nothing about carbs haha. I probably will just store it. Thanks.

-Ivan
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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 04:08 PM
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This will be my last week of riding, temps are skirting freezing, so im gonna take it out one more time to get it up to operating temps, then change the oil, and im done for the season.

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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
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I had trouble with the zzr because of me knowing little about bikes and nothing about carbs haha. I probably will just store it. Thanks.
What was to know about pulling the choke forward? Its one more process then a fuel injected bike Tho to ruffle your feathers alittle you have had to winterize a bike now for two winters right? so how is this any different then the last two?

go time traveler style and go back in time, fuck his grandma, then shoot forward in time and then fuck his mom. Then return back to present state and call him a the product of two incest whores and hes your son and show video of you plowing the both members of his family. .
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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 06:05 PM

 
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Ok this will sound anal.

But you mentioned heating the garage now and then.This will also cause a rain forest in the tank and the crankcase.
Filling the tank completely will help there but after you get the garage up to temp, notice the sweat line on the engine case.This is your main concern as the inside of the engine will be dripping condensation.
I understand this leaves most people without a climate controlled storage place in a bad way. I'm just trying to help you understand the trouble stems from heat fluctuation.

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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C2M View Post
What was to know about pulling the choke forward? Its one more process then a fuel injected bike Tho to ruffle your feathers alittle you have had to winterize a bike now for two winters right? so how is this any different then the last two?
Yea yea. I only went through one winter with the zzr, and I never winterized anything. I rode it roughly 3-6 times/month from November to March/April. I did keep it on stands and filled the tank whenever I knew it would sit for more than 3-4 days. Other than that didn't do a thing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by resurrection View Post
Ok this will sound anal.

But you mentioned heating the garage now and then.This will also cause a rain forest in the tank and the crankcase.
Filling the tank completely will help there but after you get the garage up to temp, notice the sweat line on the engine case.This is your main concern as the inside of the engine will be dripping condensation.
I understand this leaves most people without a climate controlled storage place in a bad way. I'm just trying to help you understand the trouble stems from heat fluctuation.
I'm as anal as anyone, that's why I'm asking. That is the main concern for me considering I store it for good. However, warming up the garage will happen roughly 3-4 times per month, and temps won't go much higher than 50*. I can't seem to get a straight answer on what the pros/cons are of each. Seems like if I keep riding it, I'm risking salt damage, plus very cold starts (although I could warm up the garage before starting up). On the other hand, if I just store it there will be a lot less and lower temp changes for the bike.

Anything I can do to help prevent the condensation inside the engine? I don't mind cleaning the bike every few days to get rid of any dust, condensation, etc. in case it forms, as well as flushing the fuel tank every week or two to ensure it stays clean and fresh. I'm mainly worried about the engine now as I'm not sure how to prevent the inside from condensation.

-Ivan
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 07:51 PM
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just put the bike on the corner before u have an aneurysm

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