F4i dead - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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F4i dead

I've been looking everywhere for solutions and havent had much luck finding my exact issues so any help here is appreciated. ill probably give too much on certain topics and not enough elsewhere. I am no mechanic and have very little experience with vehicles.

2002 cbr 600 F4i

Out for a ride with my brother and following him on the highway, i feel a loss of power. everything sounds off and feels different. I try catching up to get his attention, honking and lifting the visor to try and get his attention but his headphones are in and he takes off. i finally pull off into a lot and turn off the ignition. i check it over and when i go to start it and see if it has changed, nothing. not the bas that i am aware of, seein the high beam indicator with the high beam off on the panel.

so im not getting a fuel pump priming and i finally call my dad and tell him to bring tools to check the fuses. i remove the seat and its dark so i swap the bas fuse and i get fuel pump on and start the bike. i get it home but on the way it starts acting up again. at this point it is late so i figures ill swap all fuses for brand new ones and thatll be it. i have had no luck since.

i was getting power to the plug where the fuel pump assembly plugs into so i assumed it was a dead pump. I just replaced the fuel pump only, not the entire assembly. the relay in the trunk clicks with ignition on and kill switch toggled. i get the f1 light and it stays on. there is no second relay click after 5 seconds. i got f1 codes at 1, 2, 9, 14, and now 15 after the new pump went in.

ive got limited funds due to an upcoming wedding and a stressed bride to be so any input that requires funds over 20ish will have to be passed on at the moment but will still be checked into as much as possible. im hoping i can get someone with another f4i to check out mine and possible try parts to limit other things.

again, any help is greatly appreciated since i am still paying insurance on the current bike shaped decoration in my parents garage. if someone is good with bikes and looking for free lunch on a weekend sometime then stop on by. the bike is stripped down to essentials and i live in lockport off of 355.

Last edited by AggroGhost; 06-05-2012 at 08:28 PM.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 08:31 PM
Eat a bag o' dix!
 
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Welcome to the site



How's the battery?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Loki047 View Post
As long as their tits are bigger than their dicks, im in.

-"You will meet your destiny on the road of avoidance."

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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battery is fine had it on the tender the other day before hookin it back up
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 09:12 PM
Eat a bag o' dix!
 
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You should still check it with a meter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Loki047 View Post
As long as their tits are bigger than their dicks, im in.

-"You will meet your destiny on the road of avoidance."

-"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, and today is a gift. That is why we call it the present."

-"It's not considered premarital sex if you don't plan on getting married."
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 10:47 PM
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check batt voltage 3 ways:
key off sitting
key on
and running

clean the bettery terminals and make sure they are tight

-Jason
CCS AM #31
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 10:58 PM
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I'd take a look at the rectifier as well.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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battery is fine, also put in the battery off my brothers bike and nothing.

what should i do to check the rectifier?
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-05-2012, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AggroGhost View Post
battery is fine, also put in the battery off my brothers bike and nothing.

what should i do to check the rectifier?
Here's some instructions from eHow...

Instructions
Testing A Voltage Regulator

1
Set your multimeter to 20 volts DC (Direct Current) and connect the positive (+) and negative (-) leads to the corresponding battery terminals. Your battery should be charged, giving you a reading at or just above 12 volts.

2
Start your motorcycle and rev the motor to 5000rpm, maintaining the engine speed during the testing.

3
Using the multimeter, test the battery terminals again. A constant reading of 13.5 to 14.5 volts should be present. This is the proper voltage that will allow the battery to recharge properly.

4
Replace the voltage regulator if the reading is higher or lower than the 13.5 to 14.5 volt range to prevent insufficient or excessive charging. Replacing the rectifier, which converts the alternating current (AC) from your motorcycle's stator/alternator to direct current (DC) before recharging the battery, is also recommended at this time.

Tips & Warnings
When either the regulator or the rectifier fails, it often causes the other component to fail as well, so replace both at once to prevent any further complications within the charging system. If you still experience problems with the motorcycle's charging system, have a qualified technician inspect it. The problem could lie deeper than most DIY repairs can handle. Don't rush this job or you will create more problems for yourself. Take your time.

The method shown above is the simplest and most effective method to test a voltage regulator. Other methods exist, such as testing directly at the stator. However, a higher degree of technical skill is required and the job may be more complex than you anticipate. Use caution when inspecting your motorcycle's electrical and charging system. Electrical shocks, causing injury or even death, can occur. If you doubt your ability to complete the test, have the work done by a qualified technician.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 12:16 AM

 
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Charging and running have nothing in common.

Charge the battery .Bike runs until battery is below voltage needed.

Back to the bike.Can you hot wire the pump 12v (leave the plugs attached ) run a fused line from the battery to the hot line in for the pump.

Does it start pumping???

With the fuel rail pressurized it may fire for a brief second .If it does your pump works but the 12v power is not getting there.

Check #1 .

Trying to esplan all of this with my spelling and key board skills will kill all of us.

One more thing. Does the bike spin over with the kill switch on and off???This is a critical question.

Gus
We offer three kinds of service @ Resurrection
GOOD - CHEAP - FAST
You can pick any two
GOOD service CHEAP won't be FAST
GOOD service FAST won't be CHEAP
FAST service CHEAP won't be GOOD
and cold beer.

I'd love to help but I don't chase parts.
Please contact other forum members and supporters for parts.

Last edited by resurrection; 06-06-2012 at 12:19 AM.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 12:26 AM
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Pertaining to the battery and charging specifically...

A DC volt meter is required to do the following

Just because a battery reads 12 volts and the tender has a green light doesn't mean it's good. To test a battery you either need to load test it OR put a meter on it at the same time you hit the starter button to turn the motor over. If the battery dives down below 9 or 10 volts or so it's junk.

If the battery doesn't dive down too bad when you hit the starter button try the following... when the bike is running you should see 12.5 - 13 volts at idle. If you hold the revs at 5 grand or so it should read 13.5 to 14 volts. This shows the charging system is working.

Follow me???????

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-Malcolm Smith, champion motorcycle racer

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Last edited by Grasshopper; 06-06-2012 at 12:32 AM.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 12:29 AM
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And please don't discount Resurrection's specifics and questions. He's on to very common issues. So common that it's common for people to disregard his input. Then when he finds out he's right he lets out a big happy "HA!"

"I pity the poor people who don't ride motorcycles"
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 01:15 AM

 
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As the years get on it's funny because they're still the same things that cause the common problems.

Forty years ago people wanted to blame the charging system for running issues.

The most common trouble of this sort stems from poor electric contacts.

Gus
We offer three kinds of service @ Resurrection
GOOD - CHEAP - FAST
You can pick any two
GOOD service CHEAP won't be FAST
GOOD service FAST won't be CHEAP
FAST service CHEAP won't be GOOD
and cold beer.

I'd love to help but I don't chase parts.
Please contact other forum members and supporters for parts.

Last edited by resurrection; 06-06-2012 at 01:17 AM.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-16-2012, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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just an update, the service connector being jumped no longer produces any codes and the relays no longer click when the kill switch is toggled. fuel pump still not priming and bike still not running so any more ideas would be appreciated as well as any tips on good local shops
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2012, 10:58 AM
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-17-2012, 11:08 AM
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Ressurection is probably the guy for the job .....

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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-07-2012, 09:50 AM
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Just an update on this. I spent quite a bit of time talking with resurrection on possible causes, and he helped me narrow it down vastly. What started out as the ECU blaming the MAP sensor, IAT sensor and all 4 injectors shortly was reduced to it throwing one fault code for the #3 injector. I replaced the entire fuel rail a long with the injector wiring as the old wiring was not producing power to the #3 injector, this did not solve the issue.

Bought another main harness, spent a couple hours doing the swap, and the bike fired right up like nothing was ever wrong. Just need to spend some time to adjust the idle and other easy little tune-ups and this bike should be back on the road by the weekend.
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