Replacing good fork seals? - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing good fork seals?

39k on the stock fork seals on my SV, don't leak, seep, etc

Fluid in there was replaced about 20k miles ago. I wanted to replace the fluid and adjust the emulators a bit.

Is it worth replacing fork seals that don't leak, or should I just replace the fluid and keep riding it?

Fluid change for me is a 30 minute job pulling the forks off, never replaced seals before so it would take longer but not impossible.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 10:26 PM
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at that age if youre there why not change them

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 11:36 PM

 
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complete refresh comes up a little short without them.

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I'd love to help but I don't chase parts.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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I was trying to just change the fluid without doing a complete refresh as they're not leaking at all at this point

I will price out the parts and see what comes up, last I checked OEM seals are like $17-18 a piece, plus dust covers, crush washers, etc etc
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 04:28 AM
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Replacing the fork seals on an SV is a breeze. It will take you maybe 15 minutes longer. Pop off the dust seal with a screw driver, then there will be a clip holding the oil seal in, pop off the clip and the forks will come apart. Do the opposite when installing new seals. I used a PVC pipe that was slightly bigger than the fork diameter as a ghetto fork seal driver and it worked great.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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I was originally only planning on changing the seals and crush washers on the bottom for the damper rod bolts, and was going to re-use everything else unless I see wear when I pull the forks apart, I figure I should be fine.

Best place to buy the seals? They were $18 a piece plus shipping for OEM seals.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 04:14 AM
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From my experience OEM is the best seal. I installed those cheap leak-proof brand seals and they leaked after 3 track days. I probably would'nt reuse the seals. And if the forks aren't leaking from the damper rod bolt I'd probably just leave that alone, it is a pain to get that bolt out.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 07:34 AM

 
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^^damper rod bolt needs impact gun speed to prevent any spinning of rod.

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I'd love to help but I don't chase parts.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Yea I've heard the same about the seals, OEM is the only one I'm getting.

I'm replacing the damper rod crush washers because I reused them when I installed my emulators, don't really want to re-use them again to save a few bucks.

Definitely will be using the impact this time around, getting the damper rod bolts out last time w/ hand tools took longer than it should
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 06:20 PM
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If you don't have an impact gun I used the end of a broom to hold the damper rods from spinning and held the forks in place in a vise.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-16-2013, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Where do you guys buy your OEM parts?

Every dealer I've called says Monday or Tuesday of next week is the earliest I would get them, even online retailers say "ships on Monday," which means I'd be getting them even later than ordering locally.

Plan on taking the forks apart first to make sure I know exactly what I need incase of worn bushings, etc, but don't want 1 week of down time if I can avoid it.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 12:09 AM
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order all parts ahead of time
replace everything while youre there, no waiting for parts

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 12:33 AM

 
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It takes time that's all I can say.

O ya what do you think????OMG

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I'd love to help but I don't chase parts.
Please contact other forum members and supporters for parts.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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I know it takes time, I just hate having the down time

Considering just adjusting the emulators and the oil level, and replacing the front brake pads now

then I'll rebuild the forks and replace the front tire during the winter

my guess is if they're not leaking a drop, chances are the bushings are fine, but thats a guess you know

I guess I could order the seals and washers, and when I tear the forks apart to replace them, if anything else is worn, I'll have to deal with the down time

decisions decisions

Last edited by pothiawala786; 07-17-2013 at 01:01 AM.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 09:35 AM
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buy your new seals and bushings, tear the bike apart after you get your parts
spend the few hours doing it all, the right way, the first time and be done with it

40k miles for seals is uncommonly high for no leaks, youre above average there, probably 1 set ahead of the game.

nothing sucks worse than cutting corners on a job to save time only to find out that youve gotta go back and do it all again, the way you should have done it in the first place

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Yea 40k is definitely uncommon for fork seals, I was expecting them to start leaking 10k ago, fluid was changed every 10-12k so I'm sure that has a big role.

Unfortunately looks like it takes 7 business days to ship the outer bushings, everything else is 1-2 days. I'll probably re-use the dust wipers, they look to be in perfect shape.

If thats the case I'll definitely be ordering parts first before tearing the bike apart.

Replace the bushings (4 total), crush washers at the bottom, oil seals, front pads, and front tire.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Just ordered everything from Bike Bandit, to keep the downtime to a minimum.

4 bushings, crush washers, oil seals, dust seals, front tire, and fork oil.

Have a set of new Vesrah pads I bought from Safety 1st, so I'll be all set to install all this once it comes.

Looks like I'll be calling Stan again for the tire sometime next week
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