Exploded battery - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Exploded battery

What a morning, got held over at work this morning an extra 45 minutes, and when I go out to my bike, it won't start. Great. I find somebody to jump me, and I'm on my way. I make it out of northbrook without incident, but my fuel light goes off right about when I'm on 94 near skokie. I go back and forth, because I'm really tired and I don't want to stop, but I also don't want to run out of gas. Logic wins the argument and I pull over on Touey and into a Shell.


Just as I turn my engine off I remember my previous battery problems, but hope that I'd put enough charge back into it. Fill up, turn the key, but nothing happens. No big deal. A nice woman offers a jump, so I lift up my seat and notice a bunch of what looks like condensation on it. Look down at the battery, and its basically busting at the seams, steam and god knows what leaking out. Awesome, this things like 3 months old.

A nice man in a beautiful BMW gives a ride to the nearby Pep Boys, but they didn't have my battery in stock. So I call a taxi, get a ride to the city from the smelliest and least english speaking driver ever, now I'm going to pick up a uhaul trailer.

Christ I want to go to sleep.
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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 10:23 AM
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yea... jumping a motorcycle battery is not usually a good idea, just go get a in-town rental of w/e they have with a ramp and just load it in the back
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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 10:48 AM
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If you must jump start your bike from a car or truck, do it with the vehicle off. These small batteries don't handle large amounts of current very well.

Also, check your regulator/rectifier. Not sure if the Brit bikes are prone to issues, but I've seen other bikes basically cook a battery because the regulator failed to control voltage.
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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy View Post
If you must jump start your bike from a car or truck, do it with the vehicle off. These small batteries don't handle large amounts of current very well.

Also, check your regulator/rectifier. Not sure if the Brit bikes are prone to issues, but I've seen other bikes basically cook a battery because the regulator failed to control voltage.
Not sure if Lucas makes bike parts... Anything's possible...

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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 11:01 AM
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Next time push start it

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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 11:04 AM
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id venture that the r/r is what did in your battery not the jump start/s

12v is 12v regardless of what other vehicle its coming from and the bike will only draw the current it needs from teh jumping vehicle, the bike battery is plenty capable of handling heavy amp draws for short durations, but when starting the jump current isnt going inot the battery its taking the path of least resistance and going straight from the cables into the wiring

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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilotx1 View Post
id venture that the r/r is what did in your battery not the jump start/s

12v is 12v regardless of what other vehicle its coming from and the bike will only draw the current it needs from teh jumping vehicle, the bike battery is plenty capable of handling heavy amp draws for short durations, but when starting the jump current isnt going inot the battery its taking the path of least resistance and going straight from the cables into the wiring
I'd disagree, if the motorcycle battery is sitting at 10v, and you hook up a running car putting out 14v, there is going to be a large current being pushed into the motorcycle battery. Cycle batteries are designed to be charged around 2A, a car battery is perfectly capable of putting out hundreds of Amps, limited only by the internal resistance of the cycle battery. This high internal resistance will product heat, lots of it, causing the damage.

12v is 12v, but charge current is what is at play here.

If you don't believe me charge a cycle battery at 20a or more, it will start gassing very quickly, and left alone will get hot and melt.

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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:05 PM
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hmmm,
i jumped my friends bike useing my bike(running). would that cause any problems.

i want to drink, but only to kill a certain few brain cells and i don't care how many i have to take out to get to them.
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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:07 PM

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eE jeremy View Post
I'd disagree, if the motorcycle battery is sitting at 10v, and you hook up a running car putting out 14v, there is going to be a large current being pushed into the motorcycle battery. Cycle batteries are designed to be charged around 2A, a car battery is perfectly capable of putting out hundreds of Amps, limited only by the internal resistance of the cycle battery. This high internal resistance will product heat, lots of it, causing the damage.

12v is 12v, but charge current is what is at play here.

If you don't believe me charge a cycle battery at 20a or more, it will start gassing very quickly, and left alone will get hot and melt.
+1 cold cranking amps are the issue here.all the extra power must go somewhere.
I believe a smaller gauge jumper cable would limit the trouble.

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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:09 PM
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bumpstart!

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post #11 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
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+1 cold cranking amps are the issue here.all the extra power must go somewhere.
I believe a smaller gauge jumper cable would limit the trouble.
A smaller gauge cable would transfer some of that heat to the cable, but it's still quite risky and not advisable.

Best bet, push start it. Or better yet, use a 2A charger like the battery manufacture recommends

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post #12 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:19 PM
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mc batteries are capable of the same type of high rush current

im not doubting that jumping can be bad but i do not beleive that 1 or 2 jumps will fry a battery.

he said the bike did nothing when he turned the key so i take that as the battery is internally broken and continually pumping current into it would cause it to get hot and vent like it sounds like it did

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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilotx1 View Post
mc batteries are capable of the same type of high rush current

im not doubting that jumping can be bad but i do not beleive that 1 or 2 jumps will fry a battery.

he said the bike did nothing when he turned the key so i take that as the battery is internally broken and continually pumping current into it would cause it to get hot and vent like it sounds like it did
They are not capable of the same things larger batteries are. Not even close. Automotive batteries can charge at 80A no problem, a motorcycle battery is more like 5A. It is very easy to overcharge a motorcycle battery, which is why they have all the charge warnings on them when you buy one new.

Discharge yes they can move a lot of current, but for short periods of time.

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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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The car was turned off, and I've never had luck bump starting. Got a uhaul motorcycle trailer and its back in my parking spot. Check out the battery, Imagine gas spewing out of it...
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post #15 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:46 PM
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the problem appears to be clearly stamped on the retaining strap.







/seriously though, british anything=electrical woes

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post #16 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:48 PM
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The car was turned off, and I've never had luck bump starting. Got a uhaul motorcycle trailer and its back in my parking spot. Check out the battery, Imagine gas spewing out of it...
Damage looks like overcharging

When a cell shorts and the battery self discharges and overheats (the situation Jason was talking about), only one cell typically gets hot, because it has all the current shorting across it. These batteries will typically have just 1/6th of them showing the buldging and heat damage.

To Jason's point it's possible your charging system did the over charging if it was damaged, but I think the odds of that are far less likely considering you hooked an automotive battery across it.

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post #17 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:56 PM
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Take the battery out of the equation. Buy extra long jumper cables, and tether them to the car and have them ride along side of you on the way home.


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post #18 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:57 PM
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the problem appears to be clearly stamped on the retaining strap.







/seriously though, british anything=electrical woes
hence the Lucas joke

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post #19 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I originally started this thread just to bitch, but o guess we should move it over to general sport bikes where I can get help diagnosing the problem.

I don't suppose it would have anything to do with the headlight dieing last night?
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post #20 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 01:01 PM
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When I used to blow stuff up, I would just put M80s in it. This seems way too complicated.
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post #21 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 01:07 PM
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yea dude ... the D675 has a pretty underwhelming charging system

you might wanna look into getting a trickle charger that has a battery indicator that stays on your bike so you can see the amount of charge it currently has.

I've really found it useful to know how my bike is doing. But I can tell you that after you just turn the lights on and off on the D675 your battery will already be somewhat low...
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post #22 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 01:19 PM
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you will want to clean your bike now, that acid will damage just about any surface you let it sit on, ive seen new bikes get really f'ed up this way when a bonehead tech puts the wrong acid pack ( too much)in a batt and it leaks
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post #23 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eE jeremy View Post
I'd disagree, if the motorcycle battery is sitting at 10v, and you hook up a running car putting out 14v, there is going to be a large current being pushed into the motorcycle battery. Cycle batteries are designed to be charged around 2A, a car battery is perfectly capable of putting out hundreds of Amps, limited only by the internal resistance of the cycle battery. This high internal resistance will product heat, lots of it, causing the damage.

12v is 12v, but charge current is what is at play here.

If you don't believe me charge a cycle battery at 20a or more, it will start gassing very quickly, and left alone will get hot and melt.


and when a motorcycle is charging its batteries, it will be putting out 14V and at 20amps(some)
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post #24 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 01:29 PM
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Unfortunately the regulator/rectifier is a fairly common problem part on your bike. I'd start there when troubleshooting.

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post #25 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
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I believe a smaller gauge jumper cable would limit the trouble.
I have a small guage set of cables for jumping off another motorcycle. I would never jump off a car.


Get a new battery and use this chart!

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post #26 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately the regulator/rectifier is a fairly common problem part on your bike. I'd start there when troubleshooting.
I believe I had this replaced last summer by Chicago Performance, either that or my stator
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post #27 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 04:01 PM
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I believe I had this replaced last summer by Chicago Performance, either that or my stator
I think you did too, I don't remember which though. You still have the receipt? I can probably find it if you don't. At least you'll know what was replaced fairly recently. How old is that battery?
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post #28 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 04:23 PM
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jeff chens brand new non jumped battery looked just like that last summer when it died on him... bad r/r and stator and battery all in one expensive and troublesome package

he had/has a d675 as well

-Jason
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post #29 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 04:23 PM
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^ big price difference between the two. I would think if you had your stator replaced, you would remember, lol.

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post #30 of 57 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
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bad r/r and stator and battery all in one expensive and troublesome package
This chart will always tell you which part(s) are bad.

http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ng-diagram.pdf

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