anyone here work on furnaces? - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
Jim
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anyone here work on furnaces?

my house is 7 years old, and every year ive had to have my furnace worked on. You know the exhaust blower motor, the one that kicks on before igniting the gas to remove any excess gasses? well every year same thing, the dame blower just starts cycling on/off on/off on/off. i have had everything replaced, some more then once. circuit boards,ignitiors,sylenoids(s/p?). I even moved my thermostat thinking it was the constant sun beating on the thermostat was messing it up.(by the way ive changed my tstats dial/electric it dont matter same thing. ran new tstat wire so i know its not that either. WTF can it be, could it be my return is not large enough and its over heating the furnace?????

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 08:05 AM
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Do you have any codes? check for moisture in the vacuum lines to the diaphrams
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by R Factory
Do you have any codes? check for moisture in the vacuum lines to the diaphrams
no codes, its not that hi tech. i checked for moisture yesterday nothing. I dont think they made the reutrn (filter area) large enough for the furnace to get proper air and i think this is what is causing my problems. But i dont know shit about the furnace, well other then what ive learned with the repairs.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 08:59 AM
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Jim from what you said is sounds like your fan limit control switch is on the way out. What it does is when the furnace gets hot the metal on the fan limit switch makes the fan come on and even though the fire is out it will tell the fan to stay on until the furnace is cool and then it shuts off the fan. If its faulty the fan will turn on then off, on then off, on then off. there is no pattern either.

If you look at your furnace where you can see the flames just above that it should be a control that has 2 wires going to it. or follow the schematics and you will see the FLCS.

just relace it yourself but get the number first and find out how much you can get it for and then let me know and i can probably get it cheaper.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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kelly, you are probably right but just replacing it is only going to be a band aid, since this happens every year, i want to find out how to fix it so i dont have to keep paying for repairs. none of my neighbors have had problems with thiers so, is it an air flow problem? none of the 3 returns our blocked, and i think all the oultets are opened.

Im just tired of fixing this furnace year in and year out. i want to fix it and be done with it.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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by the way who sells these and where can i get them

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 06:38 PM
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Is it a carrier???

I had same problem cause by blockage in the exhust and cause control relay go out.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 05:02 AM
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Don't do so many track days and just replace the damn thing.. J/k

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 06:09 AM
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Sorry it took so long to reply but i just saw this thread again....

No Jim it should not be a bandaid. Its a component of the furnace just like a battery for a bike. replace it and you should be okay to run again.

Its hard for me to believe your furnace is only 7 years old and this many problems. As far as air flow goes the contractor should have taken square and cubic feet to calculate the amount of cfm needed to provide adequate HVAC.

The only thing that makes me nervous about your original post is the fact you said "purge". Are you 100% positive you have a purge cycle? Usually that is typical of boilers and you are talking natural gas forced air furnace right? Where the gas turns on and you see the flames going up into the exchanger right? These are answers that must be 100% answered correctly.

I am assuming you do mean forced air, natural gas, furnace with an "a" coil for AC right?

Okay time to diagnose your air flow situation. What color is the big flames when the furnace kicks on? This is important. Nest is your hot water heater gas as well? Does the gas vent on your water heater tie into the same flue on your furnace? if so there should be a gap of approx. 2" at the top of the water heater. take a match and light it; place it close to the opening on the top of the heater (flue) and just lightly blow it out and the smoke should travel up or be pulled up the vent. if so you have good vacuum to remove the expelled dioxide. (that is VERY important) if it dose not seem to get pulled up the vent you could always take a leave blower on low and stick it into the end and force air through to clean out any blockage. (it would be rare for this to get blocked) BTW if it were totally blocked for the last couple winters you would not be here so lets assume its open.

you said all 3 returns are open (you should not be able to close these) and not blocked. Turn your fan on/auto switch (TSTAT) to on. Do the same trick with the match to each return. smoke should get pulled in. Now ensure most all of your discharge vents are open and blowing air. Sometimes a damper can get stuck in the duct work and close off an entire section of the home.
Just like a car. Air in; air out. Too much air in and not enough air out will be bad. you know what i am saying right?

okay this is a good test to (without a cfm hood) test cyclic. place a new air freshener or something that gives off a distinct odor (not your ass either!) by one of the returns and then with the fan running obviously go to the discharge and see if the smell is pulled through and pushed out.

Do you change your filters often? Do you have an air flow switch? What that does is proves the fan is blowing air. Sometimes these get dirty. (Rarely but sometimes)

If all seems fine and all my assumptions are correct and the fan when in heat comes on shuts off and so on even when the flames are not visible and enough time has gone by to warrant a shutdown then yes i would stick to my original guess of a bad Fan limit control switch. Like i said earlier it works on rise and fall of temperature and it is also adjustible so make sure no one "played"with the temp related on/off time.

Good luck and sorry for HVAC 101 book

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-10-2004, 06:24 PM
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Jim,

It could also be the flame sensor. If this sensor is faulty or dirty the furnace will begin to run and then shut down. It will continue to do this until the sensor detects the flame. We put a new furnace in two years ago, and it started to do this halfway through the first winter. The repairman tried to say that the sensor got dirty because the furnace was in the same room as the washer and dryer. It will do this several times each winter, but cleaning the sensor with some emery cloth fixes the problem.

It all goes back together the way it came apart...unless it came apart at redline!
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