Great Heated Grips - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-19-2005, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Great Heated Grips

I talked to a few people on the flat 4 about heated grips. Here is the link I promised. I had them on three of my bikes and they work great. And for $27 you can't go wrong. Also to remove your grips and not ruin them just blow compressed air and they will come right off. AND, i suggest you put some electrical tape under the heating element on the left clipon.

Enjoy.

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/...de=dual_star_e
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-19-2005, 05:08 PM
 
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That is neat
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leavundst
I talked to a few people on the flat 4 about heated grips. Here is the link I promised. I had them on three of my bikes and they work great. And for $27 you can't go wrong. Also to remove your grips and not ruin them just blow compressed air and they will come right off. AND, i suggest you put some electrical tape under the heating element on the left clipon.

Enjoy.

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/...de=dual_star_e

Ok....great....I'm a total dumb ass when it's comes to electrical stuff You hardwire this right to the battery or thru the the fuse block? It has two kits for bikes, on with a round rocker switch, the other without? So it's just on or off, no tempature control?

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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 09:29 AM
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So they just go underneath your OEM grips?

Rickster, ideally you want to have some sort of inline fuse in addition to a switch. Bonus points if you use a relay so that the heated grips will only activate when the iginition is on. This way you don't forget to turn off the heated grips and no one can accidently turn it on with out the key. Less risk of draining the battery.

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Last edited by Blah Blah Blah; 10-11-2005 at 09:34 AM.
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 09:34 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maoisn
So they just go underneath your OEM grips?
Yes ... under the oem grips.

Rick, just as maoisn said, I have my grips wired into my headlights, and a toggle between. Lights on, heat, lights off ... no heat
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 09:41 AM
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Gotcha. Hmmm, I think I am $27 poorer now. Damn you people!

Wiring into the headlight is the easier method.
Pro = Piggy back off the headlight fuse, no need to run lines to battery
Con = extra strain on the headlight harness

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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 09:43 AM
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I just bought these on ebay for $50...
www.Hotgrips.com

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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2005, 11:13 AM
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My guess would be it is a pain to remove, not impossible just a pain. According to the site, the pads are held in place with 3M (VHB) Very High Bond adhesive. You can pry it off but may damage the heating pad in the process.

However, for $27, who ever buys my bike can keep the damn thing.

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Last edited by Blah Blah Blah; 10-11-2005 at 03:14 PM.
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 12:54 AM
 
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how well do these work at 30-40* out? Do thin gloves will be efficient to keep my hands warm, or will i need thick gloves to prevent the wind chill from keeping the front of my fingers from getting cold?

And how differ are these from heated gloves?


Dennis kirk sells heated pants which i might be buying this year. Because spending 10 dollars on gas a week is ridiculous.
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolninja
how well do these work at 30-40* out? Do thin gloves will be efficient to keep my hands warm, or will i need thick gloves to prevent the wind chill from keeping the front of my fingers from getting cold?

And how differ are these from heated gloves?


Dennis kirk sells heated pants which i might be buying this year. Because spending 10 dollars on gas a week is ridiculous.
Susposedly if you keep your core warm, your outer extremeties will stay warm also. Hence I'm definetely going to get a Widder vest. I was looking thru the aerostich catalog last night, they had heated grips that you just velcro to the outside of the OEM grip for $45, that you wire to the battery. I'm not 100% convinced that the heated grips are the way to go. I'm still doing my research, I like the idea of the heated gloves. My biggest concern is my hands sweat easily, and I don't want this cycle of sweat then freeze. The heated grips from what I understand cook your hands.

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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maoisn
Gotcha. Hmmm, I think I am $27 poorer now. Damn you people!

Wiring into the headlight is the easier method.
Pro = Piggy back off the headlight fuse, no need to run lines to battery
Con = extra strain on the headlight harness
Mao, When you get them, I would like to watch and help you do the install, because when it comes to electrical stuff, I suck

Rick

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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 06:58 AM
 
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Thats pretty kewl. My problem is that I run with my lights on all the time. In the summer(non cold) time that would be a wicked hot problem !
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickC1957
Mao, When you get them, I would like to watch and help you do the install, because when it comes to electrical stuff, I suck

Rick
OK Rick. I ordered it last night. I will send you a PM when I get it. I'm still debating on running an inline fuse from the battery with a relay or take the easy way out and wire it through the headlight harness.

Most headlights are 55 Watts + 36 Watts = 91 Watts ... That is over a 65% increase in load. That may still be in the safe zone but who knows what can happen long term.

Fortunately my bike has HIDs, which only consume 35 Watts, after sparking up of course, so 35W + 36W = 71Watts ... I may be able to live with 29% increase in load. Decisions. Decisions.

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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cam_neely_8
Thats pretty kewl. My problem is that I run with my lights on all the time. In the summer(non cold) time that would be a wicked hot problem !
That is why God invented switches. The lights provide power but you still should have a switch in between.

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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 09:04 AM
 
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Rick, I had the heated gloves. I would have my heated liner on high, and thusly the gloves on high as well. The liner on high=comfy the gloves on high=too hot!

In the coldest of weather, I have only had the grips on low. If they get a little too hot, a toggle switch is easy enough to switch off, or loosen the grip on the handle, as to get some cooler air in there. Turning off/on gloves/liners .....not so easy while riding. These are cheap enough to have on board as a stop gap anyway. I have definitely been caught out in cooler temps than I had dressed for, and it was a treat to be able to get some much needed warmth to my hands.
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 10:48 AM
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I would hardwire the grips to your battery with an inline fuse and switch.


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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 11:05 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cinderellieus04
where u get heated glove liners? How thick r they? my gloves are snug already. I wore under amrour last week riding & I was still freezing! even with full leathers, full under armour cold gear & neck warmer.
Actually, I have a heated jacket liner, and had heated gloves. Gerbing makes both heated glove liners, and heated gloves. I have seen the heated glove liners at the Moto show, and they look pretty slim. The heated gloves were bulky, and had no armor, prolly better for snowmobiling.
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHeYeNNe
I would hardwire the grips to your battery with an inline fuse and switch.
The problem with that is you will forget to turn them off. Nothing like coming out to a dead battery.

I am leaning towards wiring to the battery with a switch and a relay. The unit will only get power when the ignition is on or better yet only when the engine is running.

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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 11:39 AM
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How warm do the grip heaters get? I just checked out the web site and it seems pretty cool. Wouldn't be bad if they had two setting on them so you could control how hot they get but I guess it's easy enough to wire one in myself.
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maoisn
The problem with that is you will forget to turn them off. Nothing like coming out to a dead battery.

I am leaning towards wiring to the battery with a switch and a relay. The unit will only get power when the ignition is on or better yet only when the engine is running.
OOPS! had my brain turned off What about wiring to the fuse box and connecting to something that only turns on when the ignition is on? If anything like a car fuse box. Can still put a switch for when you don't need them.


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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 11:51 AM
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Wiring to the fuse box would work also. You could probably piggyback to the headlight or fuel pump fuse just fine. Yeah that would work. Actually headlight fuse would be better. You don't want the unit to malfunction, blow a fuse and all of a sudden your bike is dead.

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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 12:00 PM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by maoisn
Wiring to the fuse box would work also. You could probably piggyback to the headlight or fuel pump fuse just fine. Yeah that would work. Actually headlight fuse would be better. You don't want the unit to malfunction, blow a fuse and all of a sudden your bike is dead.
No this way it will blow at night right before that turn you were SUPPOSE to take but couldn't because the light shut off.


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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 12:15 PM
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Good old Murphy's law. Which is why ideally you want to run a separate line with it's own fuse and relay.

Come to think of it, I may be just hook the heated grips to my headlight harness and run a separate line for my HID head lights. Decisions, Decisons.

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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-12-2005, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maoisn
Most headlights are 55 Watts + 36 Watts = 91 Watts ... That is over a 65% increase in load. That may still be in the safe zone but who knows what can happen long term.

Fortunately my bike has HIDs, which only consume 35 Watts, after sparking up of course, so 35W + 36W = 71Watts ... I may be able to live with 29% increase in load. Decisions. Decisions.
Keep in mind, too, that probably you'll only be running the grips when it's cold out. That means, if you plan it right, the harness will be getting some extra cooling from outside air and should be able to take more load without any damage.

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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-13-2005, 12:34 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leavundst
I talked to a few people on the flat 4 about heated grips. Here is the link I promised. I had them on three of my bikes and they work great.
I ordered the same heated grip kit that I have on the 954 for the ST3.

http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Ride...d_grip_kit.htm

It looks like the same kit.
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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-13-2005, 05:29 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cinderellieus04
can I use your liner for toys for tots, want to try it before I pay out that much $$$$$
All you need is a BMW style outlet to plug it in to.
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickC1957
I'm not 100% convinced that the heated grips are the way to go.
I have yet to ride a snowmobile that DIDN'T have heated grips, that's all the convincing I needed. Only negative I had heard is heated grips can get too hot, but turning them off is always an option.

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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 01:33 AM
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Mao and Rick,

You guys mind one other lookin over the shoulder on the install? I would like to observe.

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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. D
I have yet to ride a snowmobile that DIDN'T have heated grips, that's all the convincing I needed. Only negative I had heard is heated grips can get too hot, but turning them off is always an option.
My concern was cutting into the electrical harness, personally I think that's a bad idea, and the heat was the concern also, but like you said you can turn them off.

On the ST3 Ducati uses a special 3 pin connector, that you can purchase and use that to plug into the fuse box, which they have a spot for heated clips posts 5 and 13 according to the owner's manual.

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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phily-D
Mao and Rick,

You guys mind one other lookin over the shoulder on the install? I would like to observe.

Vivid1 and I are doing both our bikes at the same time, if you want I can PM you when we are set to go. We are also going to document the procedure, it was going to be in Trips and Installs, but that forum has gone away, maybe Tony will still stick it somewhere, news? Who knows.

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