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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Car troubleshoot

My cars Heater/AC fan now only works on setting #5, full blast

Is this the blower motor? whatever it is, is it easy to replace?

2001 Pontiac Gran Prix
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 01:36 PM
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My guess is the switch, blower motor is working fine.




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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 01:38 PM
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dude, its freezing out! you're car is just concerned you arent warm enough and wants to work its hardest for you!!!

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 01:41 PM
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What you need to replace is called a ballast resistor, i cant tell you where on your car it is, but it regulates fan speed on all positions besides full speed.

On some cars this particular part is part of the fan switch....

ON EDIT: Most GM products use a seperate ballast resistor....

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbaddiesel
seperate ballast resistor....

Jake
+1 - a frequent replacement part on BMW's as well. 10 dollar part, 450 dollars labor unless you DIY

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 02:10 PM
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Here a write up I did for another forum. Very simliar to the Pontiac being that they rae both GM's

Part1

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.ph...&t=93383#93383

Part 2

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.ph...&t=93386#93386

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 02:18 PM
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Careful, there are probably two resistors, make sure you get the right one. Should have one for high speed and one for 1-4 speed.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kegger
+1 - a frequent replacement part on BMW's as well. 10 dollar part, 450 dollars labor unless you DIY
+2 Also seperate on some Fords.

People take these things too seriously!
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jughead
My cars Heater/AC fan now only works on setting #5, full blast

Is this the blower motor? whatever it is, is it easy to replace?

2001 Pontiac Gran Prix

G/F 1998 Grand Prix has the same problem. Dealer told me $50 for the part. I found similair info on a Grand Prix website but I don't have the link anymore.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 04:10 PM
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seperate ballast resistor

Give me the last 8 of the vin and I'll give you the GM part number. Plus I'll give you my cost.

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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 04:11 PM
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we got the same f'n problem on both my dad's work vans...the rear heater works...but the f'n switch doesnt work AT ALL for the fronts...and the dash gets super freakin hot both are ford 350 15 passenger vans with the seats moved out so we can get maximum storage into them...got one of them at the mechanics joint to fix them cause we got no warm place for me to work on them myself...even after letting the van run for 20 minutes...it was still freakin cold in the van...froze most of the mornin

...plus my gf was with me saying "omg slow down, slow down" and I was thinking "Lose annoying squalk box in passenger seat, afford more mods and have less weight in the car and on the back of the bike"...so i dumped her and I'm single again as usual...HERE KITTY KITTY!!!
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRSMAIL
seperate ballast resistor

Give me the last 8 of the vin and I'll give you the GM part number. Plus I'll give you my cost.
PM that to me too. My 1997 GTP has the same problem. Jughead, you need to fix this quickly (as well as me). Eventually the 5 setting will start to fade out as well. In this ungodly cold weather, that's dangerous.

I'll check the write ups when I get home. Are you sure this isn't just a fuse?

By the way, if your tail lights go out but your rear turn signals and brakes work and that "lights on" dinger stays on, that's fuse #37 under the hood. Took me awhile to figure that one out.

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 05:33 PM
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A great web site for help is called http://www.automotiveforums.com/

I've used it a few times myself.


Grover and Jughead, PM's sent back at you both.

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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies everyone.

JRS -I sent another pm.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 06:23 PM
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I knw the problem and i had it on my wifs car. There is a some kind of board that contols the speed settings. It goes out 1 speed at a time. !1st the lowest, then the 2nd speed and so on. The board is on the passenger side under the dash. A friend of mine knew right away because his place service Enterprise Car Rental and most front wheel drive GM cars have this problem. The piece was 30 bucks and 10 to put in.

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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 06:52 PM
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Jughead, if you're gonna DIY just be warned that one of the screws that holds the resistor in can be a little bit of a pain in the ass to get at. You may need to trim away a little of the sound deadener on the inside of the firewall to access the screw. A 6mm (maybe 5.5, I forget) swivel socket makes things easier.

-Ryan
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 07:06 PM
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Pain is an understatement. I completely gave up the first time. I'm not even sure if I changed the correct resistor board. The problem came back right away.

Now, not to jack the thread but it looks like this problem is taken care of..now my airflow direction isn't working. No matter where I turn the knob, it always stays coming out the front. WTF!

I'm going to check all the fuses first, but right now it's too f'n cold to be hanging out in the unheated, detached garage to look at this.

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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 07:41 PM
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Part number 18 is the answer for the blower control

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Last edited by JRSMAIL; 10-20-2007 at 10:05 PM.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 07:46 PM
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damn, except mine had 3 screws holding it in, one of which was completely NOT accessible.

Of course, I was at Blackhawk Farms, at night, with my meager toolkit.

-Chris

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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover
damn, except mine had 3 screws holding it in, one of which was completely NOT accessible.

Of course, I was at Blackhawk Farms, at night, with my meager toolkit.

-Chris
Grover get me the last 8 digits of the vin and I'll look up tomorrow for you.

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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover
Pain is an understatement. I completely gave up the first time. I'm not even sure if I changed the correct resistor board. The problem came back right away.

Now, not to jack the thread but it looks like this problem is taken care of..now my airflow direction isn't working. No matter where I turn the knob, it always stays coming out the front. WTF!

I'm going to check all the fuses first, but right now it's too f'n cold to be hanging out in the unheated, detached garage to look at this.
Having the right tools helps. If you plan on keeping the car it may be worth it to invest in a 6mm swivel socket next time the resistor fails, it makes it much easier and trust me it WILL fail again .


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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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So this part isn't available from an Autozone/Murray's?
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-06-2005, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jughead
So this part isn't available from an Autozone/Murray's?
I don't think so, we've only been able to get them OEM. Even if it was available from Autozone/Murrays I wouldn't want to use it. If GM can't make the thing last, I'd hate to see what Autozone's suppliers would do to it .

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