Looking for Car Stereo Installation Help - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for Car Stereo Installation Help

Ok, so I am ready to cut holes in my trailer. What?! Yep.

Cut holes in the pit side of my trailer.

Courtesy of board friends, I have tunes that can be installed in the trailer.

Kenwood KDC516S Head Unit, Radio/CD player
Courtesy of Greg Kotlinski

Sony Amp
Courtesy of Greg Kotlinski

4 Sony Marine Speakers (waterproof)
Courtesy of Dave Lockhart


Sure, I can plug things together, wire it up and turn them on. But I'd love it if I could get some help putting the system in by someone who knows how to install car stereos.

I have a Micronta 110v to 12v Converter to provide power to the system when I have 110 power, the rest of the time it can run off of the 12 car battery I have in the trailer for power.

I need to cut holes in the door side of the trailer and mount the speakers.
Remove panels and wire the speakers.
Install the head unit and support it some how.
Wire the amp in.
Wire up an AC outlet near the head unit, connected to the 110v breaker box.
Wire secondary power cables to the 12v car battery.

Anything I am missing?

i think that a few folks that came to the Tech Day said they knew how to do this and could help.

I have a large indoor place where I store the trailer, so I have a nice place to work on it indoors. Hoping to get it done this weekend before the NESBA weekend starts the following weekend.

So, anyone got some time? I got beer....

===========
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:21 PM
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I can help out next week during the week. If you don't get it done this weekend let me know. I need to stop by anyway.

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:31 PM
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i'm sure i could give ya a hand brian depending on the day..

the amp is gonna pull that battery down pretty quickly, this time remember to disconnect the trailer connector so you dont have a dead truck again

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:35 PM
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WTF, you will help him and not me? You don't deserve to ride my F4

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepro8 View Post
WTF, you will help him and not me? You don't deserve to ride my F4
Brian sold me my F4i

and you got bumped from help because of a female.

-Mopar

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:39 PM
 
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Female is a valid reason. Unless over 140 lbs.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoparBoyy View Post
i'm sure i could give ya a hand brian depending on the day..

the amp is gonna pull that battery down pretty quickly, this time remember to disconnect the trailer connector so you dont have a dead truck again

Added a separate 12v to the trailer now, so that can't happen again. We also disconnect it when we pit now.

Intention is to not run it unless plugged into power, but would be nice to have the option. I can turn the amp off as well in that case.

Can ya help on Saturday?

===========
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wink View Post
Can ya help on Saturday?
yup.. free during the day.

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome, how early can the drunken man start?

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wink View Post
Awesome, how early can the drunken man start?
i dont plan on drinking on friday night, yet.. so like 9? 10?

you know i'm gonna have to bring over a F4i, that needs a front tire swapped out if its not raining

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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We can change it out the tire whether it is raining or not. Trailer is in the storage building.

(9 would be better if you can)

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wink View Post
We can change it out the tire whether it is raining or not. Trailer is in the storage building.

(9 would be better if you can)
rockin! i will call you in the am.

-Mopar

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Cool, thanks

===========
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 07:23 PM
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I'm working Saturday (packing up the bank) and getting trashed Saturday night (since I will then be unemployeed.) If you need any finishing-up help next week let me know... I can help unless I get a call for a new job.

Namaste

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 07:42 PM
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I think a better way to power this would be to have a battery tender permanently installed in the trailer keeping the batteries charged while running on AC in the pits. then just power the stereo off of the 12 volt battery circuit like normal. I don't think you need to run a separate inverter just for the radio.




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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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That would work too. I have the inverter already though. I was planning on adding the tender as well anyway.

Long term plan is to run an iPod system into an amp then to nice speakers and sub-woofer.... bye bye 12v solution. Just no moolah at the moment.

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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 08:47 PM
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Please don't take my following comments the wrong way, just trying to help out with my expertise:

Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTony View Post
I think a better way to power this would be to have a battery tender permanently installed in the trailer keeping the batteries charged while running on AC in the pits. then just power the stereo off of the 12 volt battery circuit like normal. I don't think you need to run a separate inverter just for the radio.
Not unless you want plenty of interference noise that will be most notable when using a power source that is not made for that type of load, and using an amplifer. The inverter is the only way to go in this case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wink View Post
Added a separate 12v to the trailer now, so that can't happen again. We also disconnect it when we pit now.

Intention is to not run it unless plugged into power, but would be nice to have the option. I can turn the amp off as well in that case.

Can ya help on Saturday?
If you choose to install the amp, how do you plan to "Turn it off" and still have sound?

Your 2 seperate power sources should go through some type of duty rated switch that will allow for the amp draw, and still give you the flexibility to switch between power sources. You don't want to screw this one up, as it could be catastrophic.

Craig

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devil Dog View Post


Not unless you want plenty of interference noise that will be most notable when using a power source that is not made for that type of load, and using an amplifer. The inverter is the only way to go in this case.


You are 100% right I had forgotten about the noise issue. It's been a long time I am rusty. My other thought is, How many hours do you plan on running this system? You may want to just size your battery system to handle the load for the weekend, and the truck will charge the system on the way to the track. you may have to install two batteries in the trailer but this might be a much easier way to go.




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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTony View Post
You are 100% right I had forgotten about the noise issue. It's been a long time I am rusty. My other thought is, How many hours do you plan on running this system? You may want to just size your battery system to handle the load for the weekend, and the truck will charge the system on the way to the track. you may have to install two batteries in the trailer but this might be a much easier way to go.
Already two batteries in the trailer.

Adding third for this.

As far as the how to turn off amp, inline switch.

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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wink View Post
As far as the how to turn off amp, inline switch.
however.. there would have ot be two power sorcues to the speakers... in a normall setup this would not work...

so my opinion.. wire it normall. and jst live with it..

but aaaahhh fuck it.. too much beer.

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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 09:58 PM
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Better yet put a switch on the battery tender. then during lunch, or times when your away form the trailer but the ac is still running, hit the switch and give the batteries some juice.




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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTony View Post
Better yet put a switch on the battery tender. then during lunch, or times when your away form the trailer but the ac is still running, hit the switch and give the batteries some juice.
give your momma some juice

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 10:25 PM
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Inline switch would be best in the Remote cable (normally blue... which is used to trigger a relay for the big power.) as supposed to in the power cable.

I think what he was asking was how for you plan to have audio coming out of the speakers with the amp turned off.

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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 11:22 PM
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Why areyou using the amp? the head unit has a 22 watt rms built in amp which should be plenty for most speakers. Also what kind of amp is it (2 or 4 channel?). To add the iPod all you need is aux cable CA-C1AUX. Only when you're ready to install the sub you'll nedd the amp.

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoparBoyy View Post
however.. there would have ot be two power sorcues to the speakers... in a normall setup this would not work...

so my opinion.. wire it normall. and jst live with it..

but aaaahhh fuck it.. too much beer.
Even with the beer you would be correct!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RwS Films View Post
Inline switch would be best in the Remote cable (normally blue... which is used to trigger a relay for the big power.) as supposed to in the power cable.

I think what he was asking was how for you plan to have audio coming out of the speakers with the amp turned off.
Yes exactly. Mopar hit the nail on the head.

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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 11:42 PM
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The easiest solution is as we talked about before Wink, just put in a all in one home system sine you usually have 110v available. I know you received all these goodies and would love to make it work, but you will have to either get really creative or simply just use the converter. After all it is just my

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Last edited by Devil Dog; 04-06-2007 at 10:10 AM.
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-06-2007, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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I got no problem using the inverter... unless there is one I don't know about.

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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-06-2007, 10:09 AM
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How many amps/watts is this converter? If it is what I saw online at 13.8dcv-2.5 amps you will most certainly clip (protection shutdown) if you install the amp with the stereo. That unit is a testing unit used on a bench for low load applications. Here are some examples of what it would take to run both together:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...-converter.htm

http://www.bestconverter.com/WFCO-75...r_p_62-45.html

http://www.bestconverter.com/70-Amp-..._p_84-172.html

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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-06-2007, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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So no amp then, no big deal.

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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-06-2007, 01:03 PM

 
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Baby steps. This is a luxury. If it's not a rock concert, it's still nice to have some background music. Just keep Hix away from the Volume control. Start with mounting the head unit near the front with the inverter. The inverter has a power switch to turn it off as well. Run the speakers on the head unit for now. If we find a way to power an amp adequetly in the future, then we can add it. Thats easy enough. But this is more than we have now.

For the Ipod part, get an inline RF modulator that taps into the head unit antenna jack. Then you have a hard wired solution with no interference. You then tune the radio to a predetermined station, plug in the Ipod and the head unit provides the power. Could probably get one at Tweeter, maybe ABT or Best Buy.

The wiring can be run behind the access panels in the upper corners of the trailer like we looked at. The outside trailer walls are thin. You'll want to put some kind of ring or backing panel behind the speakers on the inside to give them something to through bolt to and provide some support. Some delrin or thick (say 1/2 - 1 Inch?) plastic will help. Maybe find somewhere for two speakers inside as well.

I'd think that the speakers will work this way. Otherwise the backing plate could also be sealed and become each speakers enclosure.

For supporting the head unit, maybe bend a steel U shaped bracket that bolts around the back and through the mounting surface on the front. Otherwise make a little L Shaped shelf to hold the weight and again through bolt it just under the head unit. (call me if this is confusing)

Having two different power sources will require a switch of sorts to separte the two power units. Again, this could be done down the road. I think the amp is going to draw to much power unless you get a hefty inverter. When it gets turned up loud it's going to draw a ton of power.

So for now, a few helpers, a jig saw, adequate lengths of speaker wire. Some power wire and ground wire thats smaller that what I gave you will work fine. A smaller inline fuse is probably recommended as well. Some shorter RCA Cables if you want, or just bundle the one thats there for now. Some plastic or delrin supports for the speakers. Soldering iron and solder for the connections, or spade and quick connectors for wires.

Any opinions?

I may be available in the morning as well. If things keep going poor today, I may be free all day.

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