Polishing exhaust manifold/header/midpipe - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Polishing exhaust manifold/header/midpipe

I have a full Yoshimura RS-3 system on my GSXR1000 and the manifold/header/midpipe could use a little attention as far as nicks and scratches. Since this weekend looks like it's going to be shitty as far as weather, I was debating giving them a once over with some Master Formula Metal Gloss/Sealer. Just wondering if anyone has done this before? I know when you get frames polished and the like they need to be refreshed every year, just curious as to whether cleaning up the pipes will lead to increased amounts of corrosion or more headaches in the future. Thoughts/opinions/etc. are appreciated!

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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 11:11 AM
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vcook had the same idea and gave up because it is a ton of work.
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 11:30 AM
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send it too a shop with a burnisher. It's a lot easier

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 11:35 AM
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get it jet hot coated.

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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 11:38 AM
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Have firebretha p-coat it. He has high temp p-coat. And his quality speaks for itself.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 11:39 AM
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get it jet hot coated.


Those coatings are harder yet to keep looking good. But any shop that does jet hot coatings would have a burnisher. Those coatings spray on green. They then dry white and go into the burnisher where they come out all shiny

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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Have firebretha p-coat it. He has high temp p-coat. And his quality speaks for itself.
Does he have the space for an exhaust system?

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Originally Posted by Crazy View Post
Those coatings are harder yet to keep looking good. But any shop that does jet hot coatings would have a burnisher. Those coatings spray on green. They then dry white and go into the burnisher where they come out all shiny
What's required to keep them nice and shiny? They do look nice but I don't want something that I'm going to need to polish every time I ride through a puddle. I keep my bikes clean but they're definitely more go than show, I don't have the time or desire to keep it looking perfect.

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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 12:08 PM
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 12:08 PM
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Does he have the space for an exhaust system?



What's required to keep them nice and shiny? They do look nice but I don't want something that I'm going to need to polish every time I ride through a puddle. I keep my bikes clean but they're definitely more go than show, I don't have the time or desire to keep it looking perfect.
probably once or twice a year hand polish with mothers aluminum polish

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmartDrug View Post
I have a full Yoshimura RS-3 system on my GSXR1000 and the manifold/header/midpipe could use a little attention as far as nicks and scratches. Since this weekend looks like it's going to be shitty as far as weather, I was debating giving them a once over with some Master Formula Metal Gloss/Sealer. Just wondering if anyone has done this before? I know when you get frames polished and the like they need to be refreshed every year, just curious as to whether cleaning up the pipes will lead to increased amounts of corrosion or more headaches in the future. Thoughts/opinions/etc. are appreciated!
this is kind of a tough one. i think no matter what you do its gonna require some upkeep.

if you ceramic coat it black it may stay decent looking without much upkeep.

the ceramichrome (chrome jet-hot coating) gets harder to maintain as the temps go up. so close to the head will get dull and further down it will stay shinny. you can use aluminum polish to bring back the shine. I use the master formula like you have. it seems to work real good on the ceramichrome. makes it look like polished aluminum.

if you just try polishing your pipes...do not use the master formula. it is not abrasive enough. that is a very fine polish and used only for finishing. its the best stuff ive ever used.

if you could...post a pic of your bike so we can see how hard it will be to maintain.

here is the ceramichrome on my bike. its over a year old now and i go over it with the master formula once in a while. for the most part its held up great...and brought temps down too. I only have the rear half of the exhaust done though. i have the front half wrapped.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LsilverR1 View Post
this is kind of a tough one. i think no matter what you do its gonna require some upkeep.

if you ceramic coat it black it may stay decent looking without much upkeep.

the ceramichrome (chrome jet-hot coating) gets harder to maintain as the temps go up. so close to the head will get dull and further down it will stay shinny. you can use aluminum polish to bring back the shine. I use the master formula like you have. it seems to work real good on the ceramichrome. makes it look like polished aluminum.

if you just try polishing your pipes...do not use the master formula. it is not abrasive enough. that is a very fine polish and used only for finishing. its the best stuff ive ever used.

if you could...post a pic of your bike so we can see how hard it will be to maintain.

here is the ceramichrome on my bike. its over a year old now and i go over it with the master formula once in a while. for the most part its held up great...and brought temps down too. I only have the rear half of the exhaust done though. i have the front half wrapped.
Wow, that R1 is CLEAN!

Here's my bike, do you think wrapping the exhaust and calling it a day would be a cheap easy solution?

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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 02:57 PM
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Wow, that R1 is CLEAN!

Here's my bike, do you think wrapping the exhaust and calling it a day would be a cheap easy solution?
honestly i think the best look for your bike would be black ceramic coating.

if you ride your bike in the rain...i dont think the exhaust wrapping likes that. I have an idea that ive been wanting to try. Wrapping the pipes with exhaust wrap. then POR-15 (an others do to) makes this hi-temp brush on manifold paint. put multiple coats on it over the wrapping. i have an extra set of headers i was gonna try that out on but havent gotten around to it yet.

are you looking to get rid of heat along with wanting it to look good? if youre just going for looks i would just do black ceramic coat and be done.

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:10 PM
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wraping the exhaust sucks on a bike. Imho it doesn't last in the real world of biking.
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:18 PM
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wraping the exhaust sucks on a bike. Imho it doesn't last in the real world of biking.

I have it done on both my GSXR's and my last 4 SV 650's. It last if you do it right.


I do agree though I would not wrap it on your bike i would either polish it by hand or get it coated black. It would look alot nicer on a naked bike.

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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:20 PM
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wraping the exhaust sucks on a bike. Imho it doesn't last in the real world of biking.
i would have to agree on that for most bikers. i dont ride mine in the rain so mine has held up very well. and OMG what a difference in the heat. these r1's are HOT...gotta do what i can.

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:21 PM
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I have it done on both my GSXR's and my last 4 SV 650's. It last if you do it right.
oh yeah, thats the key...gotta do it super tight. i soak mine is water so it wraps and conforms very tight.

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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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I have an estimate out to Jethot now, I am curious though, what would I do with the can if the header and midpipe were black, is there any way to make the can's hardware black?

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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:25 PM
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Wrapping brings with it several problems

Biggest concering is the additional heat retained can cause welds to fail or warping to occur.

secong to above is moisture retention from factors like condensation then you get rapid boil off. With the high temperatures and heat cycling the metals used in the exhaust systems see corrosion occurs more quickly than if they were left at room temperatures, moisture aggarvates this issue as you know im sure.

I think simply polishing it would be the way to go, unless it already has some protective coating applied the polishing shouldnt hasten the corrosion cycle. if anything it might slow it since you are reducing the overall surface area(at nearly microscopic level) that is exposed to the atmosphere and available to corrode
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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I think simply polishing it would be the way to go, unless it already has some protective coating applied the polishing shouldn't hasten the corrosion cycle. if anything it might slow it since you are reducing the overall surface area(at nearly microscopic level) that is exposed to the atmosphere and available to corrode
This was my major concern, I don't want to remove any coatings that are already on there. It is a full system and not a stock pipe, so methinks that they may have done something to it.

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:32 PM
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Bend's bike Pre coating.




Afte rCoating.





I did Not do the headers because even hi temp PC cannot handle that much heat, only ceramic coating.
Midpipes have had no issues so thats what you see there.

There are more photos on my website in his gallery.

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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:33 PM
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I also have a clear coat powder I have been wanting to test on some polished parts.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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That looks sweet Fire but I don't think it'd work on my bike, a two tone exhaust system would look funny.

Let me know how much it would cost to get the hardware on the exhaust can done though.

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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:38 PM
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I have an estimate out to Jethot now, I am curious though, what would I do with the can if the header and midpipe were black, is there any way to make the can's hardware black?
honestly i think just ceramic coat it black up to the can and leave the can as is. i think it will look nice. no need to get all detailed...ur just trying to clean up the look. i think you will like it.

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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:40 PM
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I also have a clear coat powder I have been wanting to test on some polished parts.
id be real curious to see how that turns out

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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiReBReTHa View Post
I also have a clear coat powder I have been wanting to test on some polished parts.
Clear hmm......

Ive been thinging about sectioning my can to shorten it a few inches but not make it stubby lookin, welding it back together and doing a polish to cover the weld seam. How hot do you have to get the part for power coating, like would it wreck the packing material in a can?

I was thinkin black at first but i'm likin the clear idea.
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 04:30 PM
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Clear hmm......

Ive been thinging about sectioning my can to shorten it a few inches but not make it stubby lookin, welding it back together and doing a polish to cover the weld seam. How hot do you have to get the part for power coating, like would it wreck the packing material in a can?

I was thinkin black at first but i'm likin the clear idea.

huzzah? how are you thinking about doing it??
honestly if you want just have anotherbend do it. http://firespeed.com/exhaustshortening.html

400Degree is how hot the pieces get but its best to take it apart and just coat the sleeve.


It all depends on the condition of the pieces, grimey, etc. etc. Not that much tho.

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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 05:42 PM
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Its not that easy, Ive got the stock 03 gixxer can on there. Theres no rivets that you can drill and get at the sleeve. Im gonna x-ray the can on monday probably and see what its internal structure looks like before I go crazy with the cut-off tool.
Ive got TIG available to me at work so welding the aluminum back together is no issue, polishing/sanding is all labor I can do that in-between posts here, and as for cleanliness, it'd be spotless when it gets sent in if I do this
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 05:45 PM
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Its not that easy, Ive got the stock 03 gixxer can on there. Theres no rivets that you can drill and get at the sleeve. Im gonna x-ray the can on monday probably and see what its internal structure looks like before I go crazy with the cut-off tool.
Ive got TIG available to me at work so welding the aluminum back together is no issue, polishing/sanding is all labor I can do that in-between posts here, and as for cleanliness, it'd be spotless when it gets sent in if I do this
its a mess in there. just get an aftermarket can.

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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-02-2008, 05:58 PM
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its a mess in there. just get an aftermarket can.
so... expensive...cant loosen deathgrip on the bills...
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