Howl to Sale - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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Howl to Sale

Been a longgggggggggg time since I've been here. It's like finding ice cream in the freezer that's been there a while. Once ya get rid of the freezer burn parts it's still good!

Ok, I'm taking pics of my FZ-1. I want to sell it and soon after the R1 for the 2009 R1.

I know the basics. Take pics, tell what mods I have done, tell about what nicks are on the bike. Then what I'm asking for.

What I'm looking for are people that have sold a moto(s) in the past and can give some suggestions on selling.

And on a side note, I don't believe I should give a test ride. I just feel they'll run off with the bike. Anyone have suggestions for that as well?
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 10:21 AM
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Selling a bike

1. take good pictures
2. price it right

Chris
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 10:22 AM
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This is what I put up for my last ad regarding test rides and other stuff...

"

****YOU MUST BE THIS TALL TO RIDE THIS RIDE****

If you are looking for your first street/sport bike - do NOT contact me. I will not sell it to you. Go take the MSF, and buy an older 600. If you have not owned at least a 600cc street bike - do NOT consider this bike. In either case - I will not contribute to your early death. Yes - it is old, carbed, wide and heavy - but it still hits 60 in 2.9 and in the right hands it will hang with newer liter bikes without a problem. This bike is for experienced riders only, and you will be required to muscle it around in order to handle and appreciate it.

TEST RIDES: If you want to test ride the bike prior to purchase, you will arrive with your M-class endorsement on your license, and you will give me the key to the car/bike you arrive in, OR place the cash/cashiers check in my hand, and you will wear a helmet. You wreck it - you buy it and I hold your vehicle until paid in full - no exceptions or negotiations. If you do not have your M-class, or you opt not to give up your key or $, then I will give you a ride and you will wear a helmet.

PAYMENT: Payment will be 100%, Paid In Full. No financing, no installments, no trades. That is your responsibility - not mine. You will pay only with cash, or a Cashiers' Check from a major bank which will require verification prior to release of the vehicle and title, even if it takes a few days to clear my bank. If you don't want to wait - bring cash. No "grocery store" money orders or mom & pop banks or credit unions, 3rd-party checks. No over-payments with refunds, or other other Nigerian Scam variants.

"
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srobak View Post
If you do not have your M-class, or you opt not to give up your key or $, then I will give you a ride and you will wear a helmet.
"
I like it, never seen this offered before.
Greg
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
 
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License and Registration please

Good advice srobak. I doubt I'll ride them around. I mean when you get a bike from the dealer you're not typically test riding jack! Now if it's a cruiser that can be different. But I don't know of any dealers giving a ride for a sport bike.

Still, if they want to ride it then I'll take those tips to heart! Thanks!
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 01:24 PM
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1st off dont try to sell it off CLSB, way to many low ballers looking to buy your shit for close to nothing.



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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vcook View Post
Selling a bike

1. take good pictures
2. price it right
3. filter out the bullshit scams, tire kickers, and lowballers
Fixed it.

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonely Raven View Post
Fixed it.
price it right it and it will be gone before the douches can give you the run around.

Chris
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vcook View Post
price it right it and it will be gone before the douches can give you the run around.
Very good point.

I admit, I try to get what I can out of it, because it's always easier to lower the price to sell than the other way around.

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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All noted. Even if it is in the traditional CLSB way.
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 03:52 PM
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Personally, I do not offer test rides.


What I tell an interested party who has seen the bike as really is interested....

Once we agree upon a price and you show up with CASH ( or equivalent ) I will let you take it for a ride. If there is something you are unhappy with *and* you bring it back in the shape it left in, I hand you your cash back and the deal is off. OTOH, if you break it or wreck it, deals done.

This insures that the bike will only be test ridden by buyers not shoppers.
It also is a good signal to prospective buyers that you won't let just any
ass-hat take your bike out and beat the snot out of it for a joy-ride.

Be prepared for stupid insulting low-ball offers.


I also put a payment disclaimer on all ads....


Payment in full in cash is due upon delivery.
Stupid, Insulting Low-Ball offers will be ignored.

A Note to Scammers...
I will not take your cashiers check for 2x the amount... so don't waste your time.

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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 03:52 PM
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I sold my last bike here on CLSB.

<-- Chris

turn the bars left and go right; that just isn't right
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 03:59 PM
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what's up my brother!!! How's the married life in Texas!?!?!?!?

...plus my gf was with me saying "omg slow down, slow down" and I was thinking "Lose annoying squalk box in passenger seat, afford more mods and have less weight in the car and on the back of the bike"...so i dumped her and I'm single again as usual...HERE KITTY KITTY!!!
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mmmm pussy
You dont like me....i dont give a fuck...cause i'll still put ya in the hospital...me tollerating you is all that matters...
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Game Plan

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLARNEY View Post
Personally, I do not offer test rides.


What I tell an interested party who has seen the bike as really is interested....

Once we agree upon a price and you show up with CASH ( or equivalent ) I will let you take it for a ride. If there is something you are unhappy with *and* you bring it back in the shape it left in, I hand you your cash back and the deal is off. OTOH, if you break it or wreck it, deals done.

This insures that the bike will only be test ridden by buyers not shoppers.
It also is a good signal to prospective buyers that you won't let just any
ass-hat take your bike out and beat the snot out of it for a joy-ride.

Be prepared for stupid insulting low-ball offers.


I also put a payment disclaimer on all ads....


Payment in full in cash is due upon delivery.
Stupid, Insulting Low-Ball offers will be ignored.

A Note to Scammers...
I will not take your cashiers check for 2x the amount... so don't waste your time.
Interesting. So I take it a Cashier's check could've been stolen and basically whatever can be put on it. So I take it only cash is to be accepted? That's pretty steep considering. I mean I'm not looking at $2,000.

Here are the specs (I'm not home while typing this so I might miss an item or two):

2004 Yamaha FZ1 with a high 9,000 miles on it.

Mods:
Hindle Carbon Fiber slip on; Hyper Pro Steering Dampner; new rear tire (Pirelli Rosso (never used/just purchased); Yamaha brand shield, titanium handlebar, lower front fairing, rear/chain guard fairing; Scorpio Alarm; fender eliminator kit installed, aftermarket signals all the way around.

Here's what's wrong with it:
Small dent in the tank (left side) from handlebar when it fell. Scratches on right side cover, very small part of tail, part of the exhaust and part of the lower front fair fairing. Nothing else is wrong with the bike. Engine and everything else performs pefectly.

The way I see it the mods outweigh the knicks and small dent on the tank. Especially it being a 2004 prices aren't what they were when I bought it.

Very open to feedback now that you guys have this to work with.

Again, I'm not home but that's the just of it. I'm looking for mid 8G to start with.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loki_D_Wolf View Post
I'm looking for mid 8G to start with.
You've already broken my second rule. Be realistic, you're never going to get that for it.

Chris
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vcook View Post
You've already broken my second rule. Be realistic, you're never going to get that for it.
what does a brand new fz1 go for $9500? and the new one is FI. so Im thinking you should probably expect to list an fz1 for $4500 and get $4k for it? does that sound about right?

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turn the bars left and go right; that just isn't right
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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Open Book

Ok, I'll have to look but I could've sworn I seen it listed for higher used/private seller. Especially because of the mods. No?
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 04:46 PM
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what does a brand new fz1 go for $9500? and the new one is FI. so Im thinking you should probably expect to list an fz1 for $4500 and get $4k for it? does that sound about right?
sounds about right.

Chris
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 04:48 PM
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mod's don't add much to a bikes value. I would venture to say between 5 and 10 cents on the dollar for what you have put on it. On some bikes things like a full exhaust and or other high dollar mod's will add value, but for the mostly cosmetic mods, i wouldn't expect anything more then an extra 1 or 2 hundred over the price of a similar bike stock.

here is a bike on ebay (04 Fz1) for $3850, it has a few days left so it will probably go up in value. I might have been a little low @ $4k, but I am closer at $4k then you were @ $8K.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motor...1%7C240%3A1318

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turn the bars left and go right; that just isn't right
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 06:21 PM

 
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If I own it it's priceless. If your selling it it's not worth half that .

This is a buyers market .NO ONE will pay much for anything these days .

Good luck!

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GOOD - CHEAP - FAST
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and cold beer.

I'd love to help but I don't chase parts.
Please contact other forum members and supporters for parts.
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Pimped

Understood.
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 09:34 PM
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KBB lists that retail at 5545.
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srobak View Post
KBB lists that retail at 5545.
retail includes dealer overhead. A private sale will never pull in the same dollars as retail. I would probably venture to guess that retail and wholesale, split the difference and you are close. But keep in mind for most parts of the country we are entering the non riding months, that combined with the soft economy might drive the price down. The good news is that it will also drive the price down on the rest of the market, so if you buy a used bike you can get it cheaper then you would.

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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-07-2008, 08:54 AM
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If it hasn't come up already, try the R1 & FZ forums. Use them both to guage value and place ads.

I've had good luck with Cycle Trader in the past too. For around $75 they would let you run an ad until the bike sold. That gave you time to make price adjustments and ad changes if it doesn't move quickly.
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-11-2008, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
 
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Sales 101

Thanks for the tips guys.
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-11-2008, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vcook View Post
Selling a bike

1. take good pictures
2. price it right
A bike sells for whatever someone wants to pay for it given that you agree to sell it at that price.

My advise is to price it to sell and be realistic. You should start at your higher end and discount it as time goes by unless you need to move it quick.

Make sure you list it somewhere where you can change the price from time to time.

I don't think bikes are going to sell well in this economy. If I was a used bike shopper I'd want 50% off a 2 year old bike with 5,000-7,000 miles max. Otherwise I'd just buy new.

I couldn't get over how much people want for used bikes and cars. There is no way in hell I would pay $5000 for a 2 year old bike with 4,000 miles on it even if it were mint when I could go to any dealer and get the same bike brand new for a thousand $$ more. No way no how.

Now, if that same bike were under $4000 that might be different.

Damn, I was just shopping for used cars and dealers priced them more than the new cars. I couldn't even haggle. Used '07 Yaris 4 door sedan was $14500 and new it is $15000. Used came back as an Enterprise Rental.

So I tried to tell the dealer the car was only worth maybe $11,000 and they told me to walk because they said they paid $13,250 at auction.

No way am I paying $14g for a rental when I can get the same car with zero miles for $1000 more. Hell, if you can come up with $14g you can sure as hell come up with $15g.

So price accordingly.

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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-11-2008, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chibeemer View Post
If I was a used bike shopper I'd want 50% off a 2 year old bike with 5,000-7,000 miles max. Otherwise I'd just buy new.

I couldn't get over how much people want for used bikes and cars. There is no way in hell I would pay $5000 for a 2 year old bike with 4,000 miles on it even if it were mint when I could go to any dealer and get the same bike brand new for a thousand $$ more. No way no how.

Now, if that same bike were under $4000 that might be different.

Damn, I was just shopping for used cars and dealers priced them more than the new cars. I couldn't even haggle. Used '07 Yaris 4 door sedan was $14500 and new it is $15000. Used came back as an Enterprise Rental.

So I tried to tell the dealer the car was only worth maybe $11,000 and they told me to walk because they said they paid $13,250 at auction.

No way am I paying $14g for a rental when I can get the same car with zero miles for $1000 more. Hell, if you can come up with $14g you can sure as hell come up with $15g.

So price accordingly.
I think you must be seeing some very unique circumstances and/or need to change your shopping strategies.

In both bikes & cars you can usually score heavy buying used in the 1 to 3 yr old range & letting the original owner take the large depreciation hit from the first years. You can also find low mileage bikes & cars in very good condition with remaining warranty in this age range.

FWIW, you will almost always see better used bike & car prices from private sellers. If you look close enough to new, the depreciation doesn't outweigh dealer margin by much...

Last edited by Troy; 11-11-2008 at 12:16 PM.
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-11-2008, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy View Post
I think you must be seeing some very unique circumstances and/or need to change your shopping strategies.

In both bikes & cars you can usually score heavy buying used in the 1 to 3 yr old range & letting the original owner take the large depreciation hit from the first years. You can also find low mileage bikes & cars in very good condition with remaining warranty in this age range.

FWIW, you will almost always see better used bike & car prices from private sellers. If you look close enough to new, the depreciation doesn't outweigh dealer margin by much...
Nope you pretty much summed it up. Steep discounts in the 1-3 year range. Define steep and that's your figure. I think one thing you eluded to is that the bike has to be in good shape to re-sell. Beaten bikes are more steeply discounted.

So my take on this is price it whatever you want but prices according to KBB and Edmonds.com are certainly at the highest end of the spectrum. Most buyers won't even call you for only 20% off a 1-3 year old bike even in good shape. The higher you price the longer (if at all) it will take to sell.

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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-13-2008, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Oops

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vcook View Post
You've already broken my second rule. Be realistic, you're never going to get that for it.
It still might be pricey but I made a mistake with the price. I was thinking about my R1 but that's another story too. I'm taking these tips and realizing what might be up with that as well.

The price is starting at $6,500 OBO. Sure, from reading what you guys wrote it is still high in price. But as you know start high, and just negotiate.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-13-2008, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loki_D_Wolf View Post
Interesting. So I take it a Cashier's check could've been stolen and basically whatever can be put on it. So I take it only cash is to be accepted? That's pretty steep considering. I mean I'm not looking at $2,000.


I have sold $15K Motorcycles for.....yup.... cash.... big ole stack of $100's.

A cashiers check CAN be faked, leaving you with your dick in your hand.

Plenty of way around it.... meet them at their bank, watch them draw the
check..... hard to fake that.

Hold the title until it clears.

When in doubt..... CASH.



Had a guy fly 1/2 way across the country.... I picked him up at his hotel,
drove him to his bank, he handed me cash upon seeing the bike, then he
rode it home to Phoenix.



Cash Is King Baby


Tom

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