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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Rock Climbers

I know Chills works at VE does anyone else climb there regularly? I'm going tomorrow to take my belay test and climb for a few hours with my girlfriend. Planning a trip this summer to the bozeman MT area. Probably hit devils tower on the way there. I'm still fairly new to "real" climbing... but I've been climbing indoor walls for a while. Right now I can climb most 5.9's without to much trouble. Chills how often are you there? I'd like to take some more advanced classes in the upcoming months (our trip is in june).
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 02:36 PM
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Ropes are for sissies. Bouldering FTW!
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 02:39 PM
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I climb there 3 times a week: Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. I work there Thursday evenings as well. I do recommend taking the Movement and Technique class. The instructor will see the way you climb and give you pointers. He/she will also show you how to do other stuff. I've taught this class and it's helped me.

Currently I'm climbing 5.11a solidly and have even finished an 11b.

The best way to get better at climbing is to climb often. You're a 5.9 climber, so what you need to do is pick a 10b as a project route. There's a great one on the West Coast wall near the Campus board, I believe it is white tagged route. Get on that and climb. If you can't make it no big deal. Keep at it. Then come back and try again the next day. Eventually you'll get it, then when you do a 5.10a it'll feel easy. Then pick another project route.

While on your project route if there's a move you can't get ask another climber for beta. Usually route-setters have specific moves in mind when they set. J-rock, Red, Cheech, and Claytor are all excellent setters. I like their routes.

Other tips I can give you is to stretch out before and after climbing. Also have a warm-up route. I warm up on a 5.8 and I'm much better throughout the day. After you've climbed a few hard routes do a cool-down route, maybe a 5.6 or a 5.7.

Finally, make sure you have the right shoes for your climbing type and that they fit.

Never a bad time to climb... unless the weather is really horrible, and then you climb inside!

I bleed GREEN
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 02:50 PM
 
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I'm there Monday and Wednesday. I've been climbing for a couple years now. I'm about a 10a/b climber.

Devil's Tower is really cool. It's a hell of a climb too. I've made it up 4 pitches or Durance route until the weather turned and my group had to come down.

I hope to go back soon to finish the climb.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 03:01 PM
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Try to get out on the real stuff as much as possible. I would usually knock a full number rating off your climbing level if you don't have a lot of outdoor experience. I'm going to be doing some camping/climbing trips down to Jackson Falls and the RRG in April/May. Let me know if you are interested in going.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 03:26 PM
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^^^ Very true. Routes are a lot harder when the next hold isn't marked with neon-colored tape.

Never a bad time to climb... unless the weather is really horrible, and then you climb inside!

I bleed GREEN
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 03:32 PM
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That, and the footwork. Using pockets for footholds instead of plastic holds that stick out from the wall.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Cool, Chills I'll probably see you there tomorrow then. I'd like to go there more often but it's quite a hike from the NW side of chicago. I have a buddy that climbs a lot at LVAC regularly. I've already talked to him and we're going to make quite a few trips to devils lake once it warms up.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 03:43 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhauditech View Post
That, and the footwork. Using pockets for footholds instead of plastic holds that stick out from the wall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chills View Post
^^^ Very true. Routes are a lot harder when the next hold isn't marked with neon-colored tape.
But the plus side.... everything is on.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniball View Post
But the plus side.... everything is on.
Just watch out for guano, sand, and sharp edges.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhauditech View Post
That, and the footwork. Using pockets for footholds instead of plastic holds that stick out from the wall.
LOL, the routes I climb don't have huge footholds.

And there is a pocket wall at VE if you'd like to test yourself. Just use naturals all the way and ignore the holds.

Never a bad time to climb... unless the weather is really horrible, and then you climb inside!

I bleed GREEN
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 05:00 PM
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Whatever.

Can you boulder V4?

http://www.accessfund.org/extras/game.php
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 05:04 PM
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Nope. I haven't bouldered in months, but last I tried I was a V2 guy. Hardly worth boasting about.

Never a bad time to climb... unless the weather is really horrible, and then you climb inside!

I bleed GREEN
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 05:50 PM
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The problem in the little game I posted is rated V4.

I hope you don't think I was being serious.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 07:37 PM
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Yeah, I go every now and then. I posted about a meetup there a few weeks ago. Uniball and one other guy showed up. I'm trying to get one scheduled around the end of February.

When the pepper spray runs out, can I have your number?
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhauditech View Post
The problem in the little game I posted is rated V4.

I hope you don't think I was being serious.
I didn't see the link until just now. Nice game.

Never a bad time to climb... unless the weather is really horrible, and then you climb inside!

I bleed GREEN
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-03-2009, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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The girlfriend and I both passed our belay tests. We were out of there by 3 though to beat the traffic into the city. Maybe we'll see ya out there next time. I want to sign up for that movement and technique class maybe over valentines day weekend.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-03-2009, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project Mayhem View Post
Yeah, I go every now and then. I posted about a meetup there a few weeks ago. Uniball and one other guy showed up. I'm trying to get one scheduled around the end of February.
Send me a PM when you go in case I miss the thread, I wouldn't mind going with a group.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009, 07:23 AM
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Congratulations, Nick. Now you have the blue tag.

I got there around 6:30 and climbed until 9ish. I got some good climbs in and even tried an 11d. It was the last route of the night so I was spent, got only half way up, but now I've got my project route.

Never a bad time to climb... unless the weather is really horrible, and then you climb inside!

I bleed GREEN
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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sweet. I did a 5.7 as a warm-up. Then a 5.8, then a 5.9 and finally a 5.9+ and I made it about 3/4 the way up before I couldn't hang on anymore. It doesn't help that I did an upper body workout the day before. I'm going to LVAC tomorrow to climb with a buddy (and learn how to use a grigri as apparently you can't climb with a ATC there).
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