Tips and tricks for bleeding your brakes? - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Tips and tricks for bleeding your brakes?

Got my new front brake master cylinder installed last night and got the front brakes working, sort-of.

History, if you are intereted

The brakes are spongy cause I don't really know how to bleed the air out of the brake lines. Anyone got any tips to really tighten up the front brakes?

Here's what I have done so far:
First, I bled all the old fluid out of both calipers by opening the bleeder valve and pumping the brake lever. Next, I filled the resevoir and then I worked the lever back and forth until there was no more bubbles in the clear hose coming from the bleeder valve on each caliper. Next, I took a rubber mallet and tapped both the calipers to help free up some trapped air and then bled a little fluid from both bleeder valves.

I repeated the last couple of steps several times and eventually the brakes tightened up quite a but they are still too spongy for the track. I put a zip tie on the brake lever to try and encourage any air bubbles to float to the top and then I left it overnight. I plan to try and finish bleeding the brakes when I get home from work today.

By the way, I did a search through some of the older posts and some different things were mentioned. Some used a mini-vac, but I don't have a mini-vac or any other type of brake bleeding tool. Can I accomplish this without any special tools. If not, what is the best, least expensive tool for the job?

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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 09:13 AM
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i hate to be a broken record but I really love my mity vac. autozone has them, less than $30.

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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 09:20 AM
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Ditto! The Mighty Vac.. 1 man job


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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 09:20 AM
 
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If you drained out all the fluid before starting to put the new in it might take a while to get all the air out. When I overhauled my calipers I wound up running a whole bottle of fluid through before I got the air out. Of course, part of that was because I let the level drop a little low in the reservoir a couple times and re-introduced air
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 09:29 AM
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Ron...I just bought a MV. I can bring it to the track Sat morning and help you out.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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How would I use this mity-vac, you guys speak of?

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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruz
Ron...I just bought a MV. I can bring it to the track Sat morning and help you out.
What is an MV? Thanks for the offer to help Sat morning. I'd like to get it finished tonight, but if I can't I'll definitely take you up on the offer.

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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 09:35 AM
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MV= Mighty Vac
Ya hook up a single hose to the bleeder screw and then pump up the pressure before opening the screw. Then you just keep pumping until fluid comes and the air is gone, closing every now and then to add more fluid.


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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHeYeNNe
MV= Mighty Vac
Ya hook up a single hose to the bleeder screw and then pump up the pressure before opening the screw. Then you just keep pumping until fluid comes and the air is gone, closing every now and then to add more fluid.
Thanks Cheyenne!

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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 09:41 AM
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Welx It will def give your forearm a workout, more then usual when your pumping


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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a good link I found to some basic directions in case anyone else needs help with the basics,
Step by step directions on bleeding the brakes

You guys ever heard of these? "Speed Bleeders"

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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 02:14 PM
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I used to use speed bleeders on my SV as it was a pre-requisite for Vcook to bleed my brakes. They worked pretty well. Now Vcook prefers the mighty vac, so I go with that.

My advice is to get yourself a Vcook!!

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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 02:33 PM
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Speed Bleeders are great. I have them on, and installed them on few of my friends bikes. Highly recomended.

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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar8000
Speed Bleeders are great. I have them on, and installed them on few of my friends bikes. Highly recomended.
mity vac is better. wait till you get a clogged/jammed speed bleeder, huge pain in the ass.

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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-10-2005, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vcook
mity vac is better. wait till you get a clogged/jammed speed bleeder, huge pain in the ass.
Nah, I know where you live.

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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-12-2005, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Just for the record...I bought a Mighty Vac and it does indeed ROCK!

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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-12-2005, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar8000
Speed Bleeders are great. I have them on, and installed them on few of my friends bikes. Highly recomended.
yup. have them on the R6 and they work great.
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-12-2005, 10:14 PM
 
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you have to bleed the master cylinder first before you bleed at the caliper.
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-12-2005, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolninja
you have to bleed the master cylinder first before you bleed at the caliper.
you dont have to, but it sure makes it go faster.

Chris
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-12-2005, 11:40 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vcook
you dont have to, but it sure makes it go faster.
the uncle on Duck Tales always said "work smart, not hard"
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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-13-2005, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolninja
the uncle on Duck Tales always said "work smart, not hard"
fair enough, but you dont always have a bleeder at the master.

Chris
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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-13-2005, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronhix
Just for the record...I bought a Mighty Vac and it does indeed ROCK!

From what I've been hearing you barely touch the brakes. Blowing away liter bikes on your F4

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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-13-2005, 11:37 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vcook
fair enough, but you dont always have a bleeder at the master.
banjo fitting
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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-14-2005, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sticky
From what I've been hearing you barely touch the brakes. Blowing away liter bikes on your F4
Working on it, gotta a long way to yet!

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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-14-2005, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolninja
banjo fitting
what does that mean? not every banjo fitting has a bleeder attached.

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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-14-2005, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vcook
what does that mean? not every banjo fitting has a bleeder attached.
You pump the brakes and slowly loosen the banjo bolt, the air will seep out between the banjo bolt/crush washers. Then you tighten it before you let go of the brake handle.

Thats the procedure if you don't have a banjo bolt bleed screw.

Steve
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-14-2005, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SL954
You pump the brakes and slowly loosen the banjo bolt, the air will seep out between the banjo bolt/crush washers. Then you tighten it before you let go of the brake handle.

Thats the procedure if you don't have a banjo bolt bleed screw.
yeah, but its a messy job. If you have a mity vac its just easier to do it straight from the caliper bleeders.

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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-14-2005, 04:51 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vcook
what does that mean? not every banjo fitting has a bleeder attached.
what SL typed.

I prefer bleeding the master, same as in the automotive field. It isn't that messy. I rather ensure there is no air in the brake system then find out later. Air travels to the highest point and most likely it is the master. You could have trapped air in the master without realizing it and using a mityvac somtimes has a tendency of not getting it out.

Only takes 5 min or less to bleed master and caliper.
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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-14-2005, 08:44 PM
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I hate speed bleeders. I got a pair and had a problem with the check ball and the seal. Just made the job harder.

One trick is to just push the pistons all the way back in the calipers. This forces fluid upwards past the check valve in the master, often taking stubborn bubbles with it. You should clean the pistons first, so you don't push dirt into the seals. You remove one caliper at a time to do it. You may need to remove some fluid first from the reservour so that it does not overflow.
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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-15-2005, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Zippy.

Is this the same Zippy as over at NESBA, real name Lindsey? If so, Ken said you were riding great on the new tracks this weekend. I never really saw you out there.

BTW, was that you in the family car (black sedan) running the North course after it rained on Monday?

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