How long do your knee pucks last? - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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How long do your knee pucks last?

just curious
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 07:46 PM
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 07:48 PM
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i think i got 3 full trackdays in mine.

depends on the track too

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 07:49 PM
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Until I get to the velcro.

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 08:58 PM
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Some sliders are harder then others. The ones that came on my suit wore out after a year, the Klucking pucks (sp) last a long time.

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 08:58 PM
 
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I've found that as my progress has stabilized, I rarely touch my knee down. I guess I hold it out just far enough that I know when I DO touch it... that's the LIMIT.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 09:14 PM
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 09:14 PM
 
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Some last far longer than others. I get a couple track days out of the ones I have used. Here is a pretty extensive test on a number of pucks:

https://www.chicagolandsportbikes.com...t=knee+sliders
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 09:24 PM
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Mine are pretty beat after 3-4 trackdays. I tend to not grind my knee into the ground anymore, the novelty has worn off.

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 09:41 PM
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When you first get your knee down you tend to grind it along on the ground because it's new and hey its' cool !

Later, as soon as it scuffs you pick your knee up just a touch and it doesn;t drag all the way through the corner.

I probably get a full season out of my Klucky-Pucks now.

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 06:37 AM
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I burned through a set of Spidi sliders in about 6 days...they would just melt, but slid real smooth. The RS Taichi slider I have now feel hard as a rock. While they will probably last all year, they don't give good feel, so I sort stopped shoving my knee out so far.

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 06:48 AM
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I got brand new ones from Drucker at Grattan, and burned through half of them at Barber.

My guess, about 2-3 track weekends (6 days)

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 07:39 AM
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How long do knee pucks last? Interesting question without a clean answer.

There are a variety of other factors as mentioned in posts above, which change as a riders skill level improves. Here are just a few thoughts off the top of my head that would effect the answer.

Puck Longevity itself -
The technical PUCK answer is of course Bill Taborn's post: https://www.chicagolandsportbikes.com...t=knee+sliders
Also of course is it low density or high density, plastic or ceramic, etc...

Rider NESBA Skill Level (from my experience which may not match yours)-

Novice Rider -
The Novice may never get the puck on the ground due to a variety of factors, including tire quality, rider ability, form, etc... not to mention the fact that leaning on a bike that far does LOOK cool, but is hard to get to happen the first time. Knee pucks may last forever at this level.

Beginner Rider -
As the novice moves up to the front of the B group, hopefully he/she has plenty of CR coaching time, working on line and form. "Get that knee out, get that butt off the seat" type of help. The pace becomes quicker and quicker, the line gets cleaner and cleaner and the form gets a little better than the average street rider. The knee may actually touch the ground as you progressively lean the bike farther and farther and get off the bike farther and farther each progressive time around the same corner. The first time it touches I thought it would scare me, but it just barely grazed and WOW! That's cool, my knee touched the ground (Big Smile happens). Getting knee on the ground wasn't the goal, but it came automatically with the improvement in my riding and listening to the CR (RonHix). Knee Pucks may last a couple of years of more at this level.

Intermediate Rider -
As the rider moves to intermediate, the pace is significantly higher than B Group. Lines are much more obvious as there is a greater number of riders in your group who actually know what the racing line is. Following their lines at a faster clip makes it much easier for the knee to get on the ground quite often. Thus, knee pucks start to see more use and as a result, wear more. As the intermediate rider (in this case me) gets more comfortable at lean angle, and gets off the bike at least a half butt width reliably in corners, lean angle gets more extreme, knee puck hit the ground regularly. The concern here is that the rider is learning to trust the lean angle and the tires a little too much. (I did). I actually ground my right Woodcraft rearset peg off significantly, throwing up sparks every time I went through a right hand chicane. Answer, TOO MUCH lean angle, thus destroying my right knee puck VERY quickly. This brings about a low side if this type of behavior continues (which it did for me) I have a right knee puck that is Velcro Only! I wore it off completely in two days at Autobahn south. Knee pucks at this stage could be completely worn away in a couple of days or a couple of years depending on the riding style.

Advanced Rider -
At this point, hopefully the rider is learning more about how they would like to ride, how it should look, and how it should feel. Having these goals in mind, they can go out and work on these skills on the track. Rule Number One - lean angle equals risk. Rule Number Two - the longer you are at lean angle, the longer you cannot get on the gas. More gas, less brakes means shorter lap times. SO, the moral of the story is, get OFF the bike. Way off the bike, and keep that bike as UPRIGHT as possible all the time. The more vertical the bike is, the wider you can open the throttle. This means LESS knee puck wear. Of course, when the turn dictates that max lean angle is required, knees hit the ground. At this stage of riding, the rider has the ability to choose if the knee will be on the ground, how long, and with how much pressure (is it gliding on the ground or is he/she grinding it into the ground?) Knee Pucks at this level may last half a season or more.


Track Dynamics -
Each track has its own set of challenges, one of those being turns. Turn radius and speed effect whether or not the knee will be anywhere near the ground. Example, RoadAmerica. VERY fast track and in most corners, even at an advanced pace, there is very little knee on the ground riding there. I could give you a turn by turn break down, but instead I'll just give you the knee puck corners. T3 - slow right hander, most knees at least graze the ground here. T5 - maybe, but not likely, more of a point and shoot turn. T9 (carousel) - yep, your knee can be on the ground the entire time here if you choose, "The Bend" - quick chicane, lots of knees on the right exit, Kettle Bottoms - nope! No knees at 180+, Canada Corner, most likely not, the speed is still too high, Billy Mitchell Bridge - once in a while, T14 - onto the front straight yes. Now for a completely different track, Putnam, pretty much the only knee contact is T2, T8 and T10. So, ignoring all the detail, the point is, some track have little to no knee time, others like Barber, your knee is on the ground quite frequently. So, track design has a significant effect on Knee Puck wear.

Ok, time to get back to work. I have no clue why I typed this all in, but I hope you may find some insight as to a couple of the factors that effect knee puck usage. Knee on the ground is a cool thing! If every motorcycle rider in the country had experienced it even once (on the track), we would have a FAR FAR safer riding community, and a much larger racing, track day and riding community as a result. It is part of the addiction.

Keyboard off,

Wink

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Last edited by Wink; 05-02-2006 at 08:02 AM.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 07:53 AM
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Well that was a loaded response.

Indepth, and very informative, thank you.

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Wink! That was a knock-it-outta-the-park response.
Looks like I'm still in the intermediate stage....I'm destroying pucks pretty quickly.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 08:45 AM
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Mine will last forever, unless I take a grinding wheel to them.

GREAT write up Wink!

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 09:58 AM
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I use my pucks a lot, I just don't have any confidence at all when I'm not touching them. It's actually a big reference point for me. When I'm warming up and preparing to pick up the pace I try to get off the bike and get the knee way out and I can touch it down at retardedly slow speeds with the bike not even leaning that much. That gives me more confidence to go faster into a corner... the amount that the ground pushes my knee back up tells me how far down I'm leaned over and how much farther I can still lean the bike. Just skimming the pucks means I still have a lot more room to go... if my knee is pushed up by what feels like 4 or 5 inches to me, then I'm running out of lean angle and about to grind a peg.

So yeah, I use knee pucks and go through em pretty quick... I'm using these RS-Taichis right now that seem like a pretty hard material and I'm guessing 3 or 4 days at most if I flip em to wear them down all the way to the velcro.

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 10:11 AM
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonGu
I use my pucks a lot, I just don't have any confidence at all when I'm not touching them. It's actually a big reference point for me. When I'm warming up and preparing to pick up the pace I try to get off the bike and get the knee way out and I can touch it down at retardedly slow speeds with the bike not even leaning that much. That gives me more confidence to go faster into a corner... the amount that the ground pushes my knee back up tells me how far down I'm leaned over and how much farther I can still lean the bike. Just skimming the pucks means I still have a lot more room to go... if my knee is pushed up by what feels like 4 or 5 inches to me, then I'm running out of lean angle and about to grind a peg.

So yeah, I use knee pucks and go through em pretty quick... I'm using these RS-Taichis right now that seem like a pretty hard material and I'm guessing 3 or 4 days at most if I flip em to wear them down all the way to the velcro.

+1, That's exaclty where I'm at. I've read that having the knee firmly planted can be a good way to get it back if either wheel starts washing out. Since then, I've liked keeping it on the ground.
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 11:46 AM
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I can go a year or 2 between sets. When I am racing or on the track once my knee touches the ground I pull it back up slightly. My knee is a gauge to tell me how far I am leaned over.
post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Good2Go
I can go a year or 2 between sets. When I am racing or on the track once my knee touches the ground I pull it back up slightly. My knee is a gauge to tell me how far I am leaned over.

That's how I do it. I let it hit then I lean more and let it gently slide along the surface. So far my JR pucks have lasted a few seasons.

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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Good2Go
I can go a year or 2 between sets. When I am racing or on the track once my knee touches the ground I pull it back up slightly. My knee is a gauge to tell me how far I am leaned over.
I use my toe sliders for that.

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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 09:19 PM
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Would echo JOns comment.

The first indicator is the knee..... when the toe touches the peg is very close behind.

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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2006, 09:38 PM
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My toes get nowhere close to the ground. The peg would drag before my toe.
post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-03-2006, 06:08 AM
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To clear it up, the knee goes first, then I tilt the foot off the peg as a gauge to how close the pegs are. If my toe touches, I adjust from there.

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