Let's talk about Water Wetter - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2006, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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Let's talk about Water Wetter

OK as it stands right now in my FZR400 I've got just regular old blue-green coolant because I've been doing test-riding now and then, been having to get the radiator off to check the plugs a couple times and it's just been easier for me to refill with the BMW coolant I've got rather than going out and worrying about the proper stuff to be buying for my bike.

The FZR seems to be running good now, I don't anticipate having to get to the plugs again for a while so the radiator is going to be going back on soon.

It's going to be a track-only bike and I understand that going with something like Water Wetter has a few advantages over your standard 50/50 coolant water mix despite the fact that organizations like Nesba and such don't really require it except for upper levels.

Among the advantages I've found is that water has a greater heat capacity than a standard 50/50 coolant mix which means the engine actually runs cooler as a result... is this correct?

As I understand the only reason Water Wetter is even used is because it changes the surface tension of the water, allowing vapor bubbles in the cooling system to be popped easier... am I right on this also?

If there's something else I should be using for track riding feel free to tell me, as it stands though a bit of Water Wetter and distilled water looks like what I will be using, if only for the ease of cleaning up the mess if I were to spill.

I'm sure it's available at most fine establishments and says on the bottle how much to use, but how much do you all use for your cooling system's volume?

I think that's all the questions I have...
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2006, 04:47 PM
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Just put it in for the season, and replace with anti-freeze during winter. I can't tell you why it's good, but that's what everyone does, and it doesn't matter if you are a novice or advanced rider, if you spill anti-freeze on the track, everyone suffers. If it's a track only bike, theres no reason not to get rid of the anti-freeze.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2006, 04:48 PM
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i think you answered all your own questions...

not sure why it works better, but the shit works good. i would suggest flushing the coolant system with water a couple times first, wanna get all the anti-freeze out of it. and just make sure you drain it come winter time.

it says on the bottle how much to use, i have always used the seat of my pants method as to how much to use, been using it for 3 years now, at the end of the year, water always looks good (ie; no rust, or discoloration of any kind)

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2006, 05:10 PM
 
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yup, water wetter decreases the surface tension of h20. i wouldn't describe it as popping easier. it reduces the amount of air pockets formed between the h20 and radiator thus gettin more h20 over the radiator.

the reason trackday orgs strongly suggest using h20 over glycol based coolants is the cleanup factor. it'll take about 2 hours to clean coolant off of a track whereas h20 will evaporate much more quickly.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2006, 09:07 PM
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If your goal is to run cooler, get Engine Ice. Runs up to 50 degrees cooler than Water Wetter. Works in most organizations, NOT acceptable for "A" in NESBA.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2006, 09:40 PM
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The whole "green coolant then blue coolant" thing made me cringe, but that's Suffice to say that can lead to bad things. Coolants are different colors for a reason, try not to mix them.

To the REAL question..I'm a freakin' engine cooling enginer and I don't know how the stuff works. As for mixing ratio, I mix it by the gallon of water. Dump out about a cup, then add 10-12 capfuls into it. In short, my method isn't that much different than Alex's. And like Alex said, do a decent flush before putting water wetter in. I only dumped the coolant, then refilled with water wetter. When my radiator got a hole, it was a bit embarrassing to be dumping coolant out of my race bike

Engine Ice is still allowed for some goofy reason in most orgs. It's only really allowed since it's proplyene glycol instead ethylene glycol. It's even SLICKER than antifreeze, but cleans up easier. It's still guaranteed to not make you any friends in the pits if you dump it on the track, so stick to water wetter unless you REALLY need it.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2006, 09:20 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wink
If your goal is to run cooler, get Engine Ice. Runs up to 50 degrees cooler than Water Wetter. Works in most organizations, NOT acceptable for "A" in NESBA.
But if you put Engine Ice in before tech inspection, it can keep you busy first thing in the morning of a track day. Don't ask me how I know.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2006, 09:58 AM
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Run (*edit) wetter/distilled and flush the hell out of it. The water drain bolts are drilled for wire. And that bike runs hot, always.

<--------Sticky Nicky

Last edited by Sticky; 06-02-2006 at 10:27 AM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2006, 10:02 AM
 
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Are you saying he should run 50% watter wetter?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2006, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danch
Are you saying he should run 50% watter wetter?

Whoops, didn't mean that.

just wetter and distilled as per directions


(I was thinking antifreeze/water ratio)

<--------Sticky Nicky
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2006, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover
The whole "green coolant then blue coolant" thing made me cringe, but that's
I didn't say I went green to blue, I just said the coolant I'm using is greenish bluish, I dunno some people call it blue but I call it evergreen.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2006, 01:04 PM
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Water itself has about the highest specific heat (amount of energy needed to raise 1cc of water 1 degree C) of any substance known to man. Certianly, any substance that you'd want to put between your legs (Liquid Sodium is used in nuclear plants, but if you think you'll piss people off dumping antifreeze on the track, wait'll you see what happens when you spill something that instantly oxidizes with oxygen!!!). That being said, WATER is the best substance transfering heat.

Antifreeze actually DECREASES the cooling capacity of your system as a 50/50 coolant mix has a significantly lower specific heat than pure water. However, frozen water sucks, so anti-freeze is needed whenever the temps fall below freezing.

Water WETTER decreases the surface tension of water (you could use dish soap, too). This increases the heat transfer coefficient coefficient between the metal surfaces (both of your engine and the radiator), allowing heat to be transfered to the coolant at a faster rate.

I doubt the "bubble bursting" thing has much to do with the increased cooling capacity.

Todd Murray
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2006, 01:12 PM
 
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I like palmolive myself...

http://p4.forumforfree.com/product-r...soncounty.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Dave
Water Wetter does something very specific.

It reduces the surface tension of water used as a coolant. It reduces temperatures by reducing the size of the boiling bubbles that are created at the hot spots in the engine coolant.

Now, here's the funny part.

If you'd like a cheap alternative, I use Palmolive dishwashing detergent, not automatic diswasher but handwashing kind, in distilled water and get the same results as Water Wetter. Cheaper and easier to get.

I use propylene glycol in my race bike as a coolant. RV anti freeze is about $3 a gallon and works. Way cheaper than Engine ice which is propylene glycol and water...just like RV anti freeze.

Last edited by Superspud needs his med's; 06-02-2006 at 01:25 PM.
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