SV guys + Blackhawk = gearing questions - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-25-2006, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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SV guys + Blackhawk = gearing questions

I'm not even sure what gearing I have lol but I know I'm off. My shift pattern goes as follows=

Straight away I get up to redline in 5th and start braking hard just after the #3 brake marker. Grab two downshifts to 3rd before turn one,
upshift to 4th before turn two,
hold 4th all the way to the bus stop where I downshift one to 3rd.
Take turn four in 3rd and upshift before turn five to 4th(big sweeping left hander if my turns are off)
Grab a downshift to 3rd for turn six and upshift for six-A
Grab another upshift to 5th right before the kink
two downshifts for turn 7 and then Im on the straight.

Does that sound right? I'll check my gearing tomorrow.

Damnit for the 3rd time tonight this is NIck not michelle
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 07:41 AM
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sounds right. I gave up downshifting for 6 just to save the upshift on the second half. But I'm slow. At least I *think*, I have only ridden there once this season. The SV has enough low end grunt so you can get shifting done when it's easiest on YOU, not the best for the track. If it's easier to upshift for turn 5 before turn 4, you can do that, lug it a bit and get on the gas harder in T4 to make up for it. It also depends on your gearing.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 07:47 AM
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Sounds about right. I ahven't been to Blackhawk in over a year so I might be off a shift or two but it sounds just about right.

Gearing for Blackhawk I ran 14 45 I believe. For some reason I cannot find my notebook with all my notes. 14 45 will work at most local tracks except Road America.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 07:47 AM
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15 front / 46 or 47 rear.

I'm never in any gear lower than 4th unless I get caught in traffic and blip down to 3rd.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 08:07 AM
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15 47 is very close to 14 15. I just depend on personal preference and you shifting point where you want to shift. Also one big thing is how fast you are making it around the track and the speeds you carry will weigh differently on you gearing you want to use.
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 09:44 AM
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I knew my gearing was off. I have a 15/45 on there right now. Coming out of T1 I was on the rev limiter in 3rd, I think with a 14/45 or a 15/47 it'll give me that little bit more of acceleration that I need. Over winter I'll probably do a 520 conversion and throw on a set of slicks

Is it spring yet?
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 10:05 AM
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Try not to ride the SV like an inline. Stay away from redline if you can especially on downshifts and decel. You will blow the little V-twin up. Remember you are on a twin that has loads of grunt and torque down low, so try playing with being in one gear hight and thumping out of the corner. You will save on tires too and not have to worry about the back end jumping around as much being lower in the rev range. It works. And don't ever not pay attention to your oil level. Run it at the top or past the top of the site window. Let it blow out of the crank case vent, who cares. just as long as you know the motor has enough oil in it.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 10:28 AM
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What The Moisture Missle said..

While you don't redline until 10,500 rpms on a first gen SV, you start dipping in power around 9,000. Aside from motor damage, it's not where the power is. My problem is that I sometimes lug it TOO much, and end up getting on the gas when the motor is at 3,000 rpm. Slapping the tailsection like it's a horse's ass does NOT make it go faster

Not having enough oil in the SV can cause shifting problems. It needs to be AT LEAST to the F on the sight glass. It's also picky on oil type. I use 10W-40 Suzuki oil, Nick uses 15W-40 Rotella. I've heard people bitching about shifting if using 10W-30.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 10:33 AM
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I have 10w40 golden spectro in it now and shifting feels good. Oil level is full. I didn't even realize I HAVE been riding this thing like an inline. Keeping the bike between 7k-11k at all times (oops)


I'll experiment at gingerman on the 1st, Nick you gonna be there?
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 10:37 AM
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Most likely not.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 11:06 AM
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I shift at around 10K or just a bit above, and try not to let the motor drop below 7000 or 6500RPM. It feels like there is very little power below 6000 compared to 7000 - 10,000, and 4500 and below feels like lugging... is that normal?

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonGu
I shift at around 10K or just a bit above, and try not to let the motor drop below 7000 or 6500RPM. It feels like there is very little power below 6000 compared to 7000 - 10,000, and 4500 and below feels like lugging... is that normal?
I was trying to do the same. Doesn't feel like there is any power below 7,000. I seem to have hit a wall at BHF. I could have squeaked out a 1:19 but I have no idea how you guys are running 17's.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 12:48 PM
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I was trying to do the same. Doesn't feel like there is any power below 7,000. I seem to have hit a wall at BHF. I could have squeaked out a 1:19 but I have no idea how you guys are running 17's.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 10:40 PM
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Question for you guys if you can remember? Do you know what break marker you're getting on the hooks at for Turn 1 at BHF?

I just got off the phone with Tim L and he said he starts to slow at #4. I think this is where I might be screwing up. I don't break until almost #2 but I'm on the hooks HARD. I'm thinking he slows down early and accelerates harder through the corner. Does that sound about right?

He read me his times from his race and he's friggin' flyin. Averaging low 1:17s...
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 08:05 AM
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There are 1,456,999,235 blades of grass from the Start Finish line until the start of turn 1. I start letting off somewhere in there.

Honestly, I don't even look at the brake markers. I couldn't tell you. Use your depth perception and concentrate on the corner. Thats what I rely on.

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 09:35 AM
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I tend to brake just past #4, and always feel like I could have braked a little later and still made the corner. It always feels like I have to let off the brakes a bit early and just coast for a moment before turning in when I brake at #4.

My avg times last dry race out were mid-low 1:21's, and best a mid 1:20. I can identify quite a few corners where I can pick up at least half a second if I just throw it in there a little faster

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Last edited by JonGu; 09-27-2006 at 09:38 AM.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 09:52 AM
 
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Good info guys thanks!
I think the hardest thing for me to do will be not blowing it up riding it like my R6.

picking the new baby up tonight, I can't wait!!!

a pic...


I'll post more once I get her.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSpud
Good info guys thanks!
I think the hardest thing for me to do will be not blowing it up riding it like my R6.

picking the new baby up tonight, I can't wait!!!


I'll post more once I get her.
Whoa, nice. bone stock save suspension mod's Do the brake lines first, stock ones suck.

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 10:08 AM
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It's difficult to really tell the exact place that you are getting on the brakes. Some people think that they are getting on the brakes at 4 because that's the last marker they see before they hit the brakes. The truth is that if you were actually braking at the 4 marker, it would be out of your site of vision and you'd probably think you started braking at the 3 marker. Just remember getting off the throttle right after the bridge and coasting to 3 to brake isn't braking at the 3 marker.
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