K6 with slicks - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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K6 with slicks

I'm in the process of setting up the k6 for the track.
Among other things, I got some 125/80, 195/70 slicks. I probably don't need them, but i wanted to see what they felt like.
I did some 'testing', and found the bike goes into a pretty bad headshake above 120 with the throttle pinned.

I did a bit of research and conclude that:
The rear tire need to be set towards the back further.
The stock suspension aint gonna cut it anymore.

I'm pretty light, and have, til now, been able to tweak the stock stuff to where im happy with it.

I think im looking at a chain, sprockets, and at the very least a good shock.

Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 07:16 PM
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Have you done anything with the front forks? changed fork oil or springs? does your bike have a steering damper on it? (if so, is it stock?)
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-13-2007, 08:09 PM
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if the bike felt fine before with a 180/?? what ever rear and now it feels like its going into head shakes with the new tire 195/70

thats cause the new HIGHER rear tire just made the steering more aggressive and thrown the swing arm alignment along with the rake and trial of the front end off.

you need to adjust the rear ride HEIGHT "not pre load" when you switch from tire to tire PROFILES.



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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2007, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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I havent done squat to the front, except set the preload, comp and rebound to my liking. I really dont wanna spend 2 grand on cartridges.

The dampener is stock, but with heavier oil in it. I have an ohlins on the way. I think it may mask the problem rather than correct it.

The headshake does not occur with a 180 gp tire or a 190 street tire.
I think ill get a penske rear shock, I cannot lower the rear ride height with the stocker. (which i think would be neccesary to offset the geometry)
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2007, 12:44 PM
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you need to change you geometry to match the new tires.....in this case, lower the rear and lift the front (lower the tubes in the triples)
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2007, 12:51 PM
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If you can't lower the rear cause your stock shock has no rear ride height adjustment, then raise the front (drop the forks DOWN in the triple trees).

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-24-2007, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ronhix View Post
If you can't lower the rear cause your stock shock has no rear ride height adjustment, then raise the front (drop the forks DOWN in the triple trees).
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-24-2007, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KFD View Post
I'm in the process of setting up the k6 for the track.
Among other things, I got some 125/80, 195/70 slicks. I probably don't need them, but i wanted to see what they felt like.
I did some 'testing', and found the bike goes into a pretty bad headshake above 120 with the throttle pinned.

I did a bit of research and conclude that:
The rear tire need to be set towards the back further.
The stock suspension aint gonna cut it anymore.

I'm pretty light, and have, til now, been able to tweak the stock stuff to where im happy with it.

I think im looking at a chain, sprockets, and at the very least a good shock.

Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
Sounds like you have a set of the non-Ntech Dunlop slicks. yep, you need to raise the tripple (less for tube showing) like Ron said to help stop that.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-24-2007, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stroked77 View Post


What he means is to raise the nose of the bike. To do that you need to have less for tube showing. As Ron put it as "dropping the forks down the tripple" which is the same as showing less for tube, raising the tripples, etc....
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