Shade tree racers, I need help! - Chicagoland Sportbikes
Chicagoland Sportbikes
 
Track Talk This forum is all about discussing riding and setup tips for different types of racetracks. As well as discussion about the local racing scene.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
Highspeed ditch inspector
 
sqrly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dixon, IL
Posts: 3,717
Location: Dixon, IL
Sportbike: CB-360, RST Futura, 96/97/98/99 compilation of gixxers into one trackbike.
Years Riding: Since 2000
How you found us: Member
           
Shade tree racers, I need help!

I am trying to get the gixxer ready for the track, so I have a couple questions

I have a 96 gsxr 750 srad that I am putting 00-03 gsxr 750 forks and brake calipers on. I need to know if a 96-99 gsxr wheel and rotors will fit on a 00-03 gsxr fork?

I know the 96-99 gsxr750, 97-00 gsxr 600, all TL models, and all busa wheels are the same in the front. I also know the 00-03 gsxr750, 01-03 gsxr 600, 00-03 gsxr 1000, use the same front wheel. I do not know if they are compatable. My biggist concern is the brake rotors spacing. Has any of you racers tried to swap them?

I also want to know if I should replace the springs for my weight, since I am going to rebuild them anyway? I weigh 135lbs. nekkid, I am not sure what I will weigh with full leathers and gear on.

What about rear shock? Will I need to change the spring or upgrade the valving?

Are the Gold Valves, or ohlin's valve upgrade really worth the expense?

I am trying to set the bike up right, but I don't want to be wasting money. I am putting all my spare money this year into the chassis, because I already have a spare motor, wheels, plastic (still need a race tail) and tank. I have been collecting pieces for four years, and now I think I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.

!!!!!!!(.)(.)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!). (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!( y )!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Garage
sqrly is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 08:17 AM
Registered User
 
Super Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: WI
Posts: 875
Location: WI
Sportbike: XB12R, H1, TTR125
Years Riding: I still have some money left...
How you found us: old member
           
If you're saving money, stay with the original forks. Get the right springs for those and save money for tires and track time.

The older generation wheels, pre 2000, will fit on those forks with some modifications. I don't know what they are exactly, but I know a friend of mine from Iowa did it on his 2001 GSXR to use his previous model wheels.

The '96 springs front and rear should be replaced with ones that support your application of track riding and weight. Stock, they are too light. The 2000 model fork springs might be closer, but you're introducing a lot of variables. Springs are the foundation for suspension. Dampening is a bonus. I'd wait on that.

Are you changing the triple clamps with the forks? That's going to play into your wheel issue too.

"Super" Dave Rosno

Team Visionsports Racing
Super Dave's Race Against Childhood Cancer
Super Dave is offline  
post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
Highspeed ditch inspector
 
sqrly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dixon, IL
Posts: 3,717
Location: Dixon, IL
Sportbike: CB-360, RST Futura, 96/97/98/99 compilation of gixxers into one trackbike.
Years Riding: Since 2000
How you found us: Member
           
My original forks are junk, left leg 30k no oil, right leg 10k no oil, scoring on the sliders, possibly bent.= I am not going to mess with them.

I already have the 00-03 gsxr750 forks, trees, and calipers. I bought them for $200. The new legs will fit in the old triples, so I will not be changing the offset. I would do the wheel swap but my bike is at a friends having the carbs rebuilt. I hope to buy the new rotors this weekend, and I will not see my bike until after x-mas.

!!!!!!!(.)(.)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!). (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!( y )!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Garage
sqrly is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 01:46 PM
DONATING MEMBER
 
Chicago Performance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northlake, IL 60164
Posts: 25,074
Location: Northlake, IL 60164
Sportbike: Trackdayz "I" bike!
Years Riding: since last year
How you found us: In a fortune cookie
           
Yes the wheels will work and the rotors are exactly the same. Get your suspension right before taking that bike to the track though. Good luck.

------->> Best motorcycle shop ever!

http://www.chicagoperformance.com/
Chicago Performance is offline  
post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 02:35 PM
Registered User
 
Super Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: WI
Posts: 875
Location: WI
Sportbike: XB12R, H1, TTR125
Years Riding: I still have some money left...
How you found us: old member
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by sqrly View Post
My original forks are junk, left leg 30k no oil, right leg 10k no oil, scoring on the sliders, possibly bent.= I am not going to mess with them.

I already have the 00-03 gsxr750 forks, trees, and calipers. I bought them for $200. The new legs will fit in the old triples, so I will not be changing the offset. I would do the wheel swap but my bike is at a friends having the carbs rebuilt. I hope to buy the new rotors this weekend, and I will not see my bike until after x-mas.
Understood.

My concerns would be these items that I don't have answers to:

Difference in fork lengths which will result in different geometry.
Difference in fork offset coupled with that which will result in different geometry.

Changes could be good or bad, but it's better to have an idea before at least to what you're up against.

"Super" Dave Rosno

Team Visionsports Racing
Super Dave's Race Against Childhood Cancer
Super Dave is offline  
post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
Highspeed ditch inspector
 
sqrly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dixon, IL
Posts: 3,717
Location: Dixon, IL
Sportbike: CB-360, RST Futura, 96/97/98/99 compilation of gixxers into one trackbike.
Years Riding: Since 2000
How you found us: Member
           
WOOHOO.... I just got an Ohlins rear shock!!!

I am using the 96 tripple, I have measured the dia. and they are the same. So I will have no offset issues.

I am not sure about the length, but I figure I can "slide the tubue up to compinsate".

Thanks Chiperf

!!!!!!!(.)(.)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!). (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!( y )!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Garage
sqrly is offline  
post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 03:08 PM
DONATING MEMBER
 
Chicago Performance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northlake, IL 60164
Posts: 25,074
Location: Northlake, IL 60164
Sportbike: Trackdayz "I" bike!
Years Riding: since last year
How you found us: In a fortune cookie
           
Don't listen to Dave. Nobody else calls him the "Super" part but himself.

------->> Best motorcycle shop ever!

http://www.chicagoperformance.com/
Chicago Performance is offline  
post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 03:08 PM
Registered User
 
Super Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: WI
Posts: 875
Location: WI
Sportbike: XB12R, H1, TTR125
Years Riding: I still have some money left...
How you found us: old member
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by sqrly View Post
I am using the 96 tripple, I have measured the dia. and they are the same. So I will have no offset issues.

I am not sure about the length, but I figure I can "slide the tubue up to compinsate".

Thanks Chiperf
Congrats on the Ohlins.

Offset isn't related to diameter. Offset is the difference between the center of the stem and an axis through the center of the forks themselves.

As the offset decreases, trail increases. If the later model forks you have are shorter, you're gonna want some of that to help you get back the trail you'll need to keep yourself, minimally, from pushing the front or, worst case, falling down.

Hopefully, that gives you some ideas. The triples themselves won't change the steering head angle, but combinations of fork height and different triple clamps with different offsets will in the end.

Again, just something to think about. Just trying to help.

"Super" Dave Rosno

Team Visionsports Racing
Super Dave's Race Against Childhood Cancer
Super Dave is offline  
post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 03:24 PM
Registered User
 
Super Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: WI
Posts: 875
Location: WI
Sportbike: XB12R, H1, TTR125
Years Riding: I still have some money left...
How you found us: old member
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiperf View Post
Don't listen to Dave. Nobody else calls him the "Super" part but himself.
Careful, I'll strip down naked and Milroy and I will come to your house...

"Super" Dave Rosno

Team Visionsports Racing
Super Dave's Race Against Childhood Cancer
Super Dave is offline  
post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 03:32 PM
DONATING MEMBER
 
Chicago Performance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northlake, IL 60164
Posts: 25,074
Location: Northlake, IL 60164
Sportbike: Trackdayz "I" bike!
Years Riding: since last year
How you found us: In a fortune cookie
           
Still gettin' freaky in Wisconsin huh? Glad to hear it. Keep up the good work dude!

------->> Best motorcycle shop ever!

http://www.chicagoperformance.com/
Chicago Performance is offline  
post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 03:36 PM
Registered User
 
Super Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: WI
Posts: 875
Location: WI
Sportbike: XB12R, H1, TTR125
Years Riding: I still have some money left...
How you found us: old member
           
Yeah, you too in Chitown also...

Jimmy's gonna be working in my school next year too at Heartland Park. All fun and games again.

"Super" Dave Rosno

Team Visionsports Racing
Super Dave's Race Against Childhood Cancer
Super Dave is offline  
post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 03:41 PM
DONATING MEMBER
 
Chicago Performance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northlake, IL 60164
Posts: 25,074
Location: Northlake, IL 60164
Sportbike: Trackdayz "I" bike!
Years Riding: since last year
How you found us: In a fortune cookie
           
I smell a free entry for someone.....Oh yea and I need another race bike too. I'll bring the leathers.

------->> Best motorcycle shop ever!

http://www.chicagoperformance.com/
Chicago Performance is offline  
post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
Highspeed ditch inspector
 
sqrly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dixon, IL
Posts: 3,717
Location: Dixon, IL
Sportbike: CB-360, RST Futura, 96/97/98/99 compilation of gixxers into one trackbike.
Years Riding: Since 2000
How you found us: Member
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Dave View Post
Congrats on the Ohlins.

Offset isn't related to diameter. Offset is the difference between the center of the stem and an axis through the center of the forks themselves.

As the offset decreases, trail increases. If the later model forks you have are shorter, you're gonna want some of that to help you get back the trail you'll need to keep yourself, minimally, from pushing the front or, worst case, falling down.

Hopefully, that gives you some ideas. The triples themselves won't change the steering head angle, but combinations of fork height and different triple clamps with different offsets will in the end.

Again, just something to think about. Just trying to help.
OK, now I understand what your trying to say, I thought you were still talking about the new triples not the old. I misunderstood you.


I took off work early and went over to my friends garage and took some measurements.

96' stanchion is 19-7/16" long.
96' slider is approx. 5" with no weight on it, NOT for sure but it's close.
96' fork end is 4-1/4", from center of axil to top of fork end.

00-03' stanchion is 19-1/16" long.
00-03' slider is 5" with no weight on it, for sure.
00-03' fork end is 4-1/4" from center of axil to top of fork end.

Your concerns were valid, I measure a .375" difference, with the new one being shorter.

My old suspension settings...

FORK
Stanchion exposed above the triple, .800".
Preload, three lines showing, forth is flush with the top of the fork cap.
Compression, softest recommended street setting according to the manual.
Rebound, softest recommended street setting according to the manual.

SHOCK
Height adjustment is fixed, a 10-12mm collar is in place.
Preload, 3/4" from top thread to top of jam-nut, this has never been changed.
Compression, softest recommended street setting according to the manual.
Rebound, softest recommended street setting according to the manual.

TIRES
Recommended front, 120/60 I think.
Recommended rear, 190/50
I normally used Dunlop D208
Front 120/70
Rear 180/55
Rear rim width, 6".

I tried the 190/50, but I hated it. Too much bar effort to turn. I do realize that with better suspension setup I may need to use the 190, do to a larger lean angle I will be doing on the track. I tend to rub off the chicken strip the day I put a tire on, so I am concerned that I will roll of the side on the track if I use a 180.

I have considered making (I am a machinist) the adjustable pivot for the swing-arm, but I am afraid that I will add unnecessary complexity. And I am not sure that it would help much.

As you can tell I am more worried about the suspension than the motor. I am happy with the motor as it is for now, but this is what is done to it.
K&N air-filter
Factory stage 1 jet kit
Yosh, RS-3 quiet can on a stock header
That is all, and it runs well.

If there is any necessary motor mods, let me know, but I am happy with it for now. I like it to start every time.

!!!!!!!(.)(.)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!). (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!( y )!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Garage
sqrly is offline  
post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 05:09 AM
Ride Red, DO WORK SON!!
 
SmokinJohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Illinois (Joliet)
Posts: 4,666
Location: Illinois (Joliet)
Sportbike: Rockets & Harleys
Years Riding: Me love you long time
How you found us: CLSB DECAL
           
Not to discredit any one or previous comments but hit WINK up with a PM.... Guys threads and posts are golden....... Take all info and use it to your advantage.... 2 cents good luck

***Ashwin RIP Brotha you will be missed***




www.dcdecals.net www.firespeed.com


Life's Journey Is Not To Arrive At The Grave Safely In A Well Preserved Body, But Rather To Skid In Sideways, Totally Worn Out, Shouting "HOLY SHIT... What A Ride!"

All you have to do is follow three simple rules. One, never under estimate your opponent (mentality). Expect the unexpected (could work out in your favor). Two, take it outside(or to a table). Never start anything inside the Bar unless it's absolutely necessary. And three, be nice.



Turning Shit into Sugar!!
SmokinJohn is offline  
post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 07:02 AM
Chief Apex Inspector
 
BLARNEY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bartlett
Posts: 10,598
Location: Bartlett
Sportbike: The Bird is the *word* - XX
Years Riding: Lots
How you found us: Stuck on the bottom of my race boot.......
           
Hey Squirrel......

Sorry I missed the tread.

These are the guys we discussed... http://www.le-suspension.com/

Respring / revalve with "stock" parts will get the job done fine.

Check the spring on the Ohlins, Important that it match.



When finished, the center of the front axle should be in the same place
as it is currently ( assuming you are happy with the bikes manners now )
what is above the triple doesn't matter, what's below the axle doesn't matter.


Dunlops will make the bike steer like a truck.... with *great* stability at
speed in fast corners. The 190 ( as opposed to a 180 ) rear accentuates this.


Pilot Power 2CT's would be my personal recommendation..... that's just me.


As for rear ride height..... it's not the pivot, that stays the same ..... but the
Y shaped clevis that connects the top shock mount through the frame.

We can measure it and shim it when you are ready.



My suggestion, bolt it all together now, make sure everything is going to
work before spending $$$ on servicing. Let's set sag on the beast and
see where it is..... that will provide additional data for your suspension guy
to get the springs right.



If you are using the new calipers.... are you using a new master ?
If using the old one, need to compare the numbers old / new.

One tweak at a time.


Tom

T2
It's ALL between the ears.....
NESBA Midwest CR #82 ( Hey - T2! ) Retired ?
FJR and a Big Red Wing-Thing
BLARNEY's GARAGE
BLARNEY is offline  
post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 08:01 AM
Slow Old Guy.
 
Wink's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: SS Barrington
Posts: 17,258
Location: SS Barrington
Sportbike: Inline Two Wheeled
Years Riding: Since the beginning of time
How you found us: Dan Ortega sent me
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinJohn View Post
Not to discredit any one or previous comments but hit WINK up with a PM.... Guys threads and posts are golden....... Take all info and use it to your advantage.... 2 cents good luck
Hey John, thanks for the props. I didn't see this thread either. I just got a PM from SQRLY as you suggested however, and my response asked him much of what is already in this thread.

So, here is my .02

The guys in this thread already have golden advice. I can tell you for a fact, for example, that SUPER knows FAR more than I do about suspension and is an EXPERT at helping people get their bikes set up properly. Anything Dave says... just do it!

Blarney also always has great advice.

So, what here is what little addition that I have to add.

Get all of the bike work done over the winter, that is what winter is for.
Get the correct springs for your weight for those new forks.
Congrats on the Ohlins, that will provide you great adjustability.
Ensure that your rear spring on the Ohlins is the right "weight"
Make sure that your new set-up matches your prior geometry when assembling.

My guesses are that you will need something around .90 springs for the front (or maybe even a tad lighter) It depends on how aggressive you are on the brakes.

On the rear, most likely something around 450-475 for a spring. Depends on how aggressive you are on the throttle.

Dave would have better numbers here than I would, so Super... tell him what to get.

When spring comes, come to the Tech Day that we have at my house every year. We can do a pre-tech on your bike so that you know it is ready, and we can help you set sag and your initial base suspension settings. (bring all your gear)

When summer comes, go to SuperDave's first school at Blackhawk. He'll teach you how to ride, and help you fine tune your suspension.

And then spend the rest of the summer getting track time with NESBA and get comfortable with high performance riding. The NESBA CRs can take you as far as you wanna go.

BTW - Save money for track time and tires. Once you get started... kiss your disposable income good bye.

===========
Great Quote - One would think that the Secret Service was smart enough to get serviced secretly.

MotoVid hasbeen
NESBA hasbeen

CCS neverbeen
WERA neverbeen
Wink is offline  
post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 08:35 AM
Registered User
 
Super Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: WI
Posts: 875
Location: WI
Sportbike: XB12R, H1, TTR125
Years Riding: I still have some money left...
How you found us: old member
           
You're kind.

Springs, you've got to go to someone that knows what it needs. Fronts are pretty easy, it's based on your weight and the projected bike weight. Rear springs are weird because of a linkage. So, while one bike might run a 450# another might use a 600# with the same combined bike rider weight.

Ohlins had a period of time when their springs weren't marked accurately to.

That's always the starting point.

"Super" Dave Rosno

Team Visionsports Racing
Super Dave's Race Against Childhood Cancer
Super Dave is offline  
post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
Highspeed ditch inspector
 
sqrly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dixon, IL
Posts: 3,717
Location: Dixon, IL
Sportbike: CB-360, RST Futura, 96/97/98/99 compilation of gixxers into one trackbike.
Years Riding: Since 2000
How you found us: Member
           
Thank you Blarny, Wink, and the rest that posted!!!

My riding style on this bike before it fell apart.
HARD on the brakes (sometimes lifting the rear) entering the turn, throw my weight to the inside to flop the bike over using very little strength for counter-steering, drive inside shoulder forward, feather clutch (to reduce the "kick") when transitioning from "off" to "on" throttle, smoothly roll on throttle untill the rear is slipping or I have left the turn.

I do know that I am going to have to re-learn how to ride this bike because I have spent the last two years riding compleatly differant bike. Also the suspension was never right to begin with. This is why I am trying to do everything at once. It will be just like a new bike.

One big concern is that I am thinking I will need a 190 tire on the rear. I have always hated them because of the increased effort for counter-steering. I have decided to use Pilot Power 2ct tires, but I don't know which compound to use. I will not have tire warmers.

I am looking to have a very quick steering bike.

The shock is an Ohlin's part number SU7050.
The spring is part number 1019-19/7.1 supposed to be a 400#. It was suposidly set-up for a 175lb. rider.

I have an opertunity to get a stock 96' fork that was set-up by lindmann engineering, for $375. I could then use my stock calipers, but I am concerned that I will wast money having to re-do the fork anyway.

!!!!!!!(.)(.)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!). (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!( y )!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Garage
sqrly is offline  
post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:09 AM
Registered User
 
Super Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: WI
Posts: 875
Location: WI
Sportbike: XB12R, H1, TTR125
Years Riding: I still have some money left...
How you found us: old member
           
Why do you need a 190?

"Super" Dave Rosno

Team Visionsports Racing
Super Dave's Race Against Childhood Cancer
Super Dave is offline  
post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:14 AM
Registered User
 
Super Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: WI
Posts: 875
Location: WI
Sportbike: XB12R, H1, TTR125
Years Riding: I still have some money left...
How you found us: old member
           
And define what you think quick steering is. You may define it as one thing, and you might have to recognize that in production trim, there's a give and take.

Personally, I've raced old and new stuff. They all steer fine. Feedback, which leads to confidence, is what I always try to achieve in my set up.

The Michelin Pilot Power 2CT is only one compound that I know of. The standard Pilot Power is harder. Michelin Pilot Race is another story, and then you have to factor in the differences between the commercial tires and the race distribution tires. Lots of differences between carcass construction, heights, shapes, etc.

"Super" Dave Rosno

Team Visionsports Racing
Super Dave's Race Against Childhood Cancer
Super Dave is offline  
post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:20 AM
Chief Apex Inspector
 
BLARNEY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bartlett
Posts: 10,598
Location: Bartlett
Sportbike: The Bird is the *word* - XX
Years Riding: Lots
How you found us: Stuck on the bottom of my race boot.......
           
The 2CT's come in one compound and are good till a low "A" pace.

I would recommend the 180 rear.


We should discuss the clutch thing.


Tom

T2
It's ALL between the ears.....
NESBA Midwest CR #82 ( Hey - T2! ) Retired ?
FJR and a Big Red Wing-Thing
BLARNEY's GARAGE
BLARNEY is offline  
post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
Highspeed ditch inspector
 
sqrly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dixon, IL
Posts: 3,717
Location: Dixon, IL
Sportbike: CB-360, RST Futura, 96/97/98/99 compilation of gixxers into one trackbike.
Years Riding: Since 2000
How you found us: Member
           
I define quick as in twitchey and no physical strength needed for counter-steering.

When I am looking at 2ct I see, super soft/soft, and soft/medium. Then there is the medium all over single compound tire.

I have been told that I will probably "roll off the edge of a 180". I am not afraid of getting low. So I am wanting to find out if I have been mis-informed.

!!!!!!!(.)(.)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!). (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!( y )!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Garage
sqrly is offline  
post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:51 AM
Chief Apex Inspector
 
BLARNEY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bartlett
Posts: 10,598
Location: Bartlett
Sportbike: The Bird is the *word* - XX
Years Riding: Lots
How you found us: Stuck on the bottom of my race boot.......
           
You have been mis-informed.

Are you looking at Power Race in various compounds ?

Tom

T2
It's ALL between the ears.....
NESBA Midwest CR #82 ( Hey - T2! ) Retired ?
FJR and a Big Red Wing-Thing
BLARNEY's GARAGE
BLARNEY is offline  
post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:58 AM
Slow Old Guy.
 
Wink's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: SS Barrington
Posts: 17,258
Location: SS Barrington
Sportbike: Inline Two Wheeled
Years Riding: Since the beginning of time
How you found us: Dan Ortega sent me
           
I'd also say stick with the 180. 190s are for laying the power down, LOL!

Nah, just kidding. 180s are fine and my preferred tire size (except on 1000s). The goal here really is to carry as little lean angle as possible. there are certainly different riding styles and body position, but the goal is to keep as MUCH rubber on the ground as possible for maximum contact patch.

We have riders that can easily run mid to front of "I" pace with VERY little lean angle. As a matter of fact, we have a Control Rider who used to get his knee down all the time. Now that he races and rides mid to front of "A", he barely gets his knees down.

Remember young jedi, Lean Angle = Risk. Minimize time at Max. Lean Angle

===========
Great Quote - One would think that the Secret Service was smart enough to get serviced secretly.

MotoVid hasbeen
NESBA hasbeen

CCS neverbeen
WERA neverbeen
Wink is offline  
post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 10:14 AM
Registered User
 
Super Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: WI
Posts: 875
Location: WI
Sportbike: XB12R, H1, TTR125
Years Riding: I still have some money left...
How you found us: old member
           
I've done 13's on Pilot Power's at Blackhawk before the softer 2CT. Honestly, I've felt the Pilot Powers are better for track days compared to Pilot Race because they maintain a certain level of traction longer. Eventualy, you run the Pilot Race out of enough rubber that it doesn't develop anymore traction because it can't keep in any heat, where the Pilot Powers both have more rubber that will keep in longer over a period of laps.


No physical effort and twitchy will leave you with a chassis that has little chassis trail and not much opportunity to catch a tuck. Additionally, you'll continue to have the rear wheel come up. When the rear tire comes up and you have to let off the brake, that's a reduction in trail. It's almost intuitive, kind of an attempt to save your ass, really. You run out of trail, you fall down. It's basic chassis stuff.

You've probably seen some racers with the rear wheel in the air and their hand still on the brake lever. The chassis is set up to still have trail. Additionally, it's set up so that the rider is still braking into a corner too.

We could go on for days, but there are lots of ways to make a bike work better. It's not obvious at all, but it does take work. Some chassis are better than it than others. Componentry isn't the key, but chassis geometry is. That means you can to make a current R6 handle like crap and you can make a '69 CB750 rock around a race track.

"Super" Dave Rosno

Team Visionsports Racing
Super Dave's Race Against Childhood Cancer
Super Dave is offline  
post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
Highspeed ditch inspector
 
sqrly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dixon, IL
Posts: 3,717
Location: Dixon, IL
Sportbike: CB-360, RST Futura, 96/97/98/99 compilation of gixxers into one trackbike.
Years Riding: Since 2000
How you found us: Member
           
The tire thing has been clarified. I am going to use 2ct 120/70, 180/55.

I am going to have the forks and shock freshened up by Lindmann Engineering. They will also spring them for my weight.

I am going to need a realy good carburator guy for cheap. Any recomendations?

I want to thank all that have responded, I am learning a whole new aspect to motorcycles and I feel that I am learning from the best.

!!!!!!!(.)(.)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!). (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!( y )!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Garage
sqrly is offline  
post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 10:49 AM
Special Agent Lance Boyle
 
Sticky's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: planet earth
Posts: 6,707
Location: planet earth
Sportbike: 2010 KX250F
Years Riding: 26
How you found us: Sportbike Network
           
Send a message via AIM to Sticky
I know nothing, I just wanted to say I'm happy to hear you're going to the track. Street riding is for cruising.

Good move on the 180 tires, I seem to remember people "going down" to 180s way back when so they would turn more quickly. You have a host of good info here.

<--------Sticky Nicky
Sticky is offline  
post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
Highspeed ditch inspector
 
sqrly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dixon, IL
Posts: 3,717
Location: Dixon, IL
Sportbike: CB-360, RST Futura, 96/97/98/99 compilation of gixxers into one trackbike.
Years Riding: Since 2000
How you found us: Member
           
OK, here is what I have done.

I just bought another set of forks, they came off of a 96' GSX-R 750 and have already been updated with Lindemann Engineering internals.

I have contacted Lindemann, and I am sending the forks and Ohlin's shock to them for a basic rebuild (to freshen them up) and re-spring for my weight/usage. $500

Now, I need to sell the 00-03 GSX-R forks I have. They are in perfect condition, and have the triple clamps, legs, brake calipers and brake lines. I bought them for $200, I will sell them for $200.

I will have to Wait a couple week before I have any more money to buy more parts, but here is what I still need.
Brake rotors, mine are completely worn out.
Ignition coils, I gave one away to a guy from New York that was stranded.
Race tail, I want the one that doesn't use the stock seat, just a 1/4"pad.
Engine case covers, aftermarket approved for racing, not stock.

Thanks again guys!

!!!!!!!(.)(.)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!). (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!( y )!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Garage

Last edited by sqrly; 12-12-2007 at 04:57 AM.
sqrly is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chicagoland Sportbikes forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome