Considering Nikon 50mm 1.4 - Chicagoland Sportbikes
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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Considering Nikon 50mm 1.4

I currently have the 50mm 1.8 and found that I use it quite a bit. Wondering if going to the 1.4 is worth it and who's used both to give some thoughts.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 03:43 PM
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you can borrow mine for a minute to see if you rikey.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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I'll pack up my camera and bring it with maybe just swing by and snap a few shots there.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 03:54 PM
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hey, no charge!
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 05:12 PM
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Before I buy any more primes from Nikon, I'm holding off for AF-S. I may be waiting for some time.

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 05:25 PM
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is there going to be that much of a difference, between the .8 and .4?




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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_EATER View Post
Before I buy any more primes from Nikon, I'm holding off for AF-S. I may be waiting for some time.
I couldn't hold my breath any longer and I do a lot of low light photography (candid) so I jumped on the 85mm f/1.8, 50mm f/1.4, and Sigma 30mm f/1.4.

I sold the 85mm as it was just too long for indoor shooting and really didn't blow me away. I've owned several 50mm f/1.8 and 50mm f/1.4 and even played with an industrial/medical 55mm f/.85 I think it was.

Anywho, the f/1.8 vs the f/1.4 debate goes like this.

The f/1.4 has a hint more contrast (every bit helps IMHO), is decent wide open, beats the f/1.8 @ f/1.8. Extreme sharpness starts in at f/2.0 and is at it's peak at f/4.0.

Both lenses can resolve far more then our cameras can handle @ f/4 and beyond. So if you're using f/4 and up, then just get the 50mm f/1.8 and don't worry about it. If you shoot a lot of low light and/or like to get sharp at 2.0 as well as have better contrast...then you *need* the 50mm f/1.4

Edit: I doubt it matters, but some photographers are nutty. The 50mm f/1.4 weighs considerably more then the 50mm f/1.8. It is really a completely different design, and not just the "same thing" but a little more light.

If you are and have the money roll to back it up, you want to get the Nikkor Noct which is a 58mm f/1.2 with hand ground aspherical elements and a god of both bokeh and night time shooting....since it was designed for astronomy photography.

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Last edited by Lonely Raven; 02-01-2008 at 05:38 PM.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 05:39 PM
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Here is the Nikkor Noct for you Mac using Ducati riding Starbucks drinking types:

http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-BOXED-Nikon...QQcmdZViewItem

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonely Raven View Post
Here is the Nikkor Noct for you Mac using Ducati riding Starbucks drinking types:

http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-BOXED-Nikon...QQcmdZViewItem
Um hello? mac using Ducati riding, starbucks drinking types shoot with canons

Oh, my new L showed up today, OH MY GOD is there a difference in build quality between L and non L. Never would have believed it till I held one in my hands.




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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 10:57 PM
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I'll buy the 1.8 for cheap if you go 1.4

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-02-2008, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
 
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I stopped by Mort82's and tinkered with his 1.4 side by side with my 1.8. It can for sure shoot darker of course. But aside from that I didn't see too much of a difference that said "you should swap out the 1.8 for this". If buying from scratch I'd maybe go with the 1.4 next time, but there's too little difference between the two to justify the purchase. In terms of clarity, the pics looked very similar. The faster shutter speed was nice though, so if indoor photography like church or other without flash is important then the 1.4 is the way to go.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-02-2008, 10:09 AM
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Good call man. Whatever works for your style of shooting.

IMHO, *everyone* should have the 50mm in their bag, even if it's just the 50mm f/1.8 for $100.

Tony, my apologies for forgetting your kind uses Canon. What was I thinking!

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 01:27 PM
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Tony, What L lens did you get? Done any shooting with it yet?

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 01:36 PM
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70-200 F4 L

havent had a chance to play with it yet.




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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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How does that one differ from the 70-300mm
f/4-5.6 IS USM besides being f/4 all the way through?
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 02:16 PM
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'L' Glass is like that 17-55 build you held the other night Biggy, high end stuff. From what I hear.
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
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How does that one differ from the 70-300mm
f/4-5.6 IS USM besides being f/4 all the way through?
Typically any fixed aperture lens is a higher quality all the way around because they are built to pro-standards.

I'm not very familiar with Canon, but if it were a Nikon it's just better glass, better coatings, better body construction resulting in better contrast. Not to mention water resistant and rubber gaskets to keep dust out.

Besides, one stop (f/4-5.6) is a big drawback when you're past f/4.

If it was f/2.8 to f/4, that's still usable. Past f/4 and you are starting into the "consumer gear" zone.

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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Typically any fixed aperture lens is a higher quality all the way around because they are built to pro-standards.

I'm not very familiar with Canon, but if it were a Nikon it's just better glass, better coatings, better body construction resulting in better contrast. Not to mention water resistant and rubber gaskets to keep dust out.

Besides, one stop (f/4-5.6) is a big drawback when you're past f/4.

If it was f/2.8 to f/4, that's still usable. Past f/4 and you are starting into the "consumer gear" zone.
I have a 70-300mm that's f/4-5.6, but mostly I'm using it on track or some nature shots. I could see maybe an indoor hockey or basketball game there being a big difference, but on something like that is the performance gain worth the money?
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 02:27 PM
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but on something like that is the performance gain worth the money?
Depends on what you are shooting.

Take volleyball or gymnastics. No flash allowed. You gotta get the best. Even then the ISO gets jacked up.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
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I have a 70-300mm that's f/4-5.6, but mostly I'm using it on track or some nature shots. I could see maybe an indoor hockey or basketball game there being a big difference, but on something like that is the performance gain worth the money?
everything lonley said plus the L is 67mm the non L you brought up (which i also own) is a 58mm. Also the L focus's internally so it doesn't constantly change your circular polarizer. also better image quality.




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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
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Depends on what you are shooting.

Take volleyball or gymnastics. No flash allowed. You gotta get the best. Even then the ISO gets jacked up.
Outdoor photography for me mostly. Track or nature shots.
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
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Outdoor photography for me mostly. Track or nature shots.
Same here.




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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:03 PM
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I took this shot with the 70-300mm
f/4-5.6 IS USM. It is an awesome lens and highly touted as "L Glass in disguise" by many so called internet experts.

But the IS isn't something I need for outdoor track photography especially when using a monopod, and I wanted more clarity and contrast and color than that lens could give me. I just wasn't getting the image quality I wanted and I realized that the photos I was comparing mine too, which were the ones making mine feel inadequate were done with L series lenses.





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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 06:08 PM
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I hear the "L" glass is pretty nice. Ive never tried the stuff, but what the others said above is supposed to be true.

That 70-200/4 "L" is the budget "L" glass as it is pretty easily affordable, yet offers nice image quality and build, thus worthy of the "L" distinction.

Its not going to make your pictures miraculously better, however. The biggest thing you will notice will be the focusing speed due to its true USM vs. that Micro-USM in the 70-300. Optically, it is almost the exact same in resolution as your 70-300. You may see a bit more contrast and punch in the "L" vs. your 70-300 due to its fluorite glass and coatings, but judging by the sample photos I have seen, the 70-300 and 70-200/4 are really close to each other.

While I'm happy for your purchase Tony, I'm not sure if this would have been the lens I would have chosen. First, the lens does not have IS, which is very valuable for panning and hand held shots at long focal lengths. Second, the two lenses mentioned above are optically about equal. And thirdly, the F/4 max aperture is not much of an advantage over the 70-300, especially considering that to get to 300mm, you will need a 1.4x teleconverter, in which case you will be shooting at F/5.6 anyways.

So in a way, I am shocked that you chose the regular 70-200/4 when you already own the very nice 70-300 IS.

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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_EATER View Post
I hear the "L" glass is pretty nice. Ive never tried the stuff, but what the others said above is supposed to be true.

That 70-200/4 "L" is the budget "L" glass as it is pretty easily affordable, yet offers nice image quality and build, thus worthy of the "L" distinction.

Its not going to make your pictures miraculously better, however. The biggest thing you will notice will be the focusing speed due to its true USM vs. that Micro-USM in the 70-300. Optically, it is almost the exact same in resolution as your 70-300. You may see a bit more contrast and punch in the "L" vs. your 70-300 due to its fluorite glass and coatings, but judging by the sample photos I have seen, the 70-300 and 70-200/4 are really close to each other.

While I'm happy for your purchase Tony, I'm not sure if this would have been the lens I would have chosen. First, the lens does not have IS, which is very valuable for panning and hand held shots at long focal lengths. Second, the two lenses mentioned above are optically about equal. And thirdly, the F/4 max aperture is not much of an advantage over the 70-300, especially considering that to get to 300mm, you will need a 1.4x teleconverter, in which case you will be shooting at F/5.6 anyways.

So in a way, I am shocked that you chose the regular 70-200/4 when you already own the very nice 70-300 IS.
you are right on a lot of points, but it all goes to my experiences. Most of my track shots (which is about the only thing I bought this lens for) are used without IS and right around 200mm. So the fact that I can sit at 200 and be at f4 which is about what I needed, plus the build and lens quality made it an easy decision. Also I had been wanting a lens hood for my 300, and this lens comes with it which is an added bonus. The next step up in L was quite a bit of jump in cash. If I was actually making money from my shots I would have made that jump, but as this is a hobby and I never make a dime form my work I can only justify soo much cash. especially with the amount of hobbies I have




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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 02:50 PM
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Tell ya what I am not sure if I am doing this right but I just went and took a shot with each lens to see the difference.

Nortel oc-192 card
lit with overhead lighting on my kitchen table and diffused lighting from windows behind me.
Both shots at 1/40 f4.0 86mm App pri mode. tripod mounted and self timer to avoid shake

Here is the 70-300 4.0-5.6 IS http://www.trackdayshots.com/posthosting/IMG_6037.jpg

Here is the 70-200 4.0 L http://www.trackdayshots.com/posthosting/IMG_6036.jpg

Now the lighting conditions etc are not lab quality for some of you who do this stuff all the time on dpreview or that fred miranda site, but I definitely see a difference.




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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Try some place like a bathroom or elsewhere with no outside light and just a constant bulb. Then maybe do a shot outside from your window or something like that. Be interesting to see an outdoor vs indoor comparison.
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