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That's exactly my point.
 
im just worried that at 7500 miles im coming up on a catastrophic failure because of a known weakness
I wouldn't be too concerned. When buying used of course you may wonder how the previous owner(s) cared for it but I bought my 600 around the same time you did. Mine was used too and had 18K miles on it. After doing the initial maintenance (plugs, filters, oil etc) I came to the conclusion that the previous owner just put gas, oil in it and rode. My bike runs perfect, both on the track and street. My guess is that your bike is just fine with less that 1/2 the mileage. These are Suzuki's man, they run forever with little maintenance. Although I am like you and mental with maintenance and do more than required. On that note I am going to have the valves adjusted and checked due to mileage this spring.
 
Knowing they are the same I would at least replace the retainers. I had a retainer let go, which let the valve drop at Gingerman first session with a handful of laps in going into the first turn. Ask G2G and Plotts they where both there.

It broke the valve head off and tried sending the head out the head sideways. There are pictures and a thread I made about it a few years ago.

The head will come off with motor still in bike.
 
Do what CP does. Drive to Daytona and have two creepy friends join you. Rent a a room at a flea-bag motel, pull the engine, bring it in the room, and check P/V clearance. Oh, and don't forget the tape and an old tire. :laughing

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That's exactly my point.
I read on a trusted forum from a guy who builds 700 horsepower race bikes so he knows all. He said that rotella and improper fork height was causing these valve failures. Since this guy makes 6 figures and bangs super models who squirt like olf faithful on command. I tend to trust what hes saying.
 
Bare foot and one shoe.
that's a great photo thanks Dave.LOL
 
I don't allow cameras in my shop.

Incriminating ya know.
 
Not a heat coating, but a hard coating. Ti valves are softer than stainless or super metal valves, so you have to use a soft intake seat like Beryllium copper and a low seating pressure spring. For the 600, the high valve speeds probably requires a heavier spring and dictates a hard coating, like a DLC. Microns thick, so if you lap the valve, you remove the coating. It would then have really bad seat recession and guttering (looking like it melted).

Yeah.... OK, that's for the distinction.

I can tell you for a fact.... this happens in a handful of laps if the coating is compromised.


Glad Smails checked in here.... he is the 600 Valve Expert.


Sorry Brian ... you're next.


And guys.... Good advice here, Set the lash and do a leakdown that will tell you what's what.

The fragile vales were a short time issue. Any motor can break a valve at any time ..... don't sweat it.


Set it up right and ring the shit out of it.


Tom
 
Do what CP does. Drive to Daytona and have two creepy friends join you. Rent a a room at a flea-bag motel, pull the engine, bring it in the room, and check P/V clearance. Oh, and don't forget the tape and an old tire. :laughing

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So one guy is barefoot, Ken looks like he has just socks on, and one dude has just one boot? WTF :p LOL


Yeah fak the internet readings man. Man no one in the 80s and 90s gave a fuck and just rode the sh#$ out of their bikes. Maaan Doty Road once it gets warm!

:p
 
Hey Pilot, I say rev the piss out of it and see if it blows, and if so, come buy the spare engine I have. :D:
This is what I did and the tore apart engine in the basement still and it has been 2 plus years now...:lmao:

Complete motors are cheap and in a few hours time be back up an running.
 
You guys are getting WAY TOO worked up over this.....

Yes the forums are full of self proclaimed experts.

Here's my suggestion having raced about 50+ GSXR600 motors....ride the damn thing!

7500 miles is nothing and the valves are going to be in spec...if you're super paronoid check the valves. Even at the valve check intervals they are rarely out of spec.

So when do you replace the valves?

When you freshen up the motor or skip and just buy another motor. Yes, the valves are the weak link in Suzukis....however they still last a long time. Every manufacturer has a weak link just link Yamahas like rod bearings. The retainers are fine now in those motors.

At the AMA level....we used to run fresh heads every 2 weekends and do the bottom ends every 4 weekends. Why...because we could because I didn't pay anything for parts and we were looking for perfect hp and 1-2 hp would make a big difference running at the front. The valves alone are about $900 retail.

That being said, a properly built supersport or stock GSXR engine will last a LONG time.

Just ride it and don't worry about it. Take that money and go take a good riding school....you're lap times will love it:)
 
Haha man those were good times. That same weekend in Daytona we rented a POS econo car and parked at the top of a circular parking garage. Next morning heading to the track we got a running start at the top and locked the e brake and squealed the rear tires the entire way down the circular ramp every floor. :laughing: It felt like we were running over rumble strips the entire rest of the time we had that car from flat spotting the tires. :laughing:
 
Hey...there's been more than one factory team that has loaded up a bike and taken it back to the hotel and done the same thing.

They kick you out of the Speedway 2 hrs. after the last practice....no ifs/ands/or butts....no matter who you are. Pack your shite and hit the road till tommorow.....no other option but hotel rooms for guys.
 
i think it ruins the valves.... not sure though

Correct....

It wrecks the coating on the valves..... what to do is get a couple
extra valves for lapping then discard them.... but you cannot use
lapping compound on the valves you are actually installing.

Tom
 
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