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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased the 03 gix and will be tracking it primarily and since my zx10 was basically stock I wanted to ask what are the most important upgrades geared for the track riding. I have this list of what I plan on doing.

Windscreen changed to Double Bubble for better tucking ability.
Frame Sliders
Swingarm Spools
Stainless Front Brake Lines
Pilot Power Tires
Race Plastic. What is recommended that isn't too expensive Bobby (Mort) I remember you got a pretty good deal on your stuff what was that?

Anything else?

How important do you think rearsets are? I have never gotten that knee down yet but have only gone to one full track day with the zx10. I did manage to drag my foot one time because I didn't have it tucked properly.

Performance I don't figure I need to worry about because I won't be able to get the use out of it until I at least get into a good I pace.

Thanks everyone.
 

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pilot powers are good tires...thats what i use
other than that track time.....improve the nut that connects the handlebars to the footpegs:laughing:

i wouldn't worry about rearsets as a gixxer has its pegs high enough and back enough from teh factory
 

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Brakelines get the -2 lines. Alot better than regular steel braided lines. Also get SRJL Vesrah brake pads for the front.

Get you suspension dialed in

Set of dot race tires. any brand will do
 

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Brakelines get the -2 lines. Alot better than regular steel braided lines. Also get SRJL Vesrah brake pads for the front.

Get you suspension dialed in

Set of dot race tires. any brand will do
oh yeah suspension i forgot about
you will be suprised how well a motorcycle handles once you get you suspension set up for you
 

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DP Brake pads are really easy to get a hold of and are really inexpensive.

Proper springs for the front and rear suspension.

If you have that, then the rest is about getting the geometry to work right. Move the forks up or down and potentially move the rear shock length.

Lots of GSXR's are in need of more trail in the chassis. Usually has you raising up front of the bike.
 

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Sounds like you got everything you'll need except suspension set up. Take the bike to someone that knows what they're doing and get your sag dialed in, ensuring its sprung properly for you.

Vesrah or DP RDP pads are great.

Pilot Powers are more than adequate, and unless you're running warmers they're prolly the best option. DOT race tires provide great grip when warm, but they're more sensitive to heat cycling and take a little longer to get to temp than powers, especially at slower pace. The heat cycling can be an issue because you'll think the tire is OK because it has meat on it, but its rubber is no longer any good. Also, they'll wear quicker because they're a softer compound and without warmers the outer layer will get hot much quicker than the inner carcass, leading to cold tearing.

Powers will warm up quicker and last longer.
 

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E-racings off of ebay. I don't think they have an ebay store, but they are affordable* but that doesn't mean they fit easily ;)

get some track days, then you can decide what you want
 

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The heat cycling can be an issue...
I'm just gonna stop this.

Race tires don't heat cycle. Heat cycling is a process by which the rubber becomes hard and unuseable through continued heating and cooling.

The fact is that current production radial race tires have a thin amount of rubber. Rubber is worn away as it is used for traction. When the rubber wears away, the tires ability to maintain heat in the carcass is reduced. It is reduced to a point where the tire doesn't develop grip.

This happens pretty darn quick. The best part of the race tire is the first eight to eighteen laps. It drops and continues to drop from there. At that point, the track day style tires have better consistent traction for a longer period.


If you want, I have a front and rear race take off Michelin that I'd sell for $60 shipped. That would include the race distribution only "C" front. Should be able to find Michelin Pilot Powers for around $250.
 

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Work with super dave on your suspension. He did wonders for Alex's f4i
 

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Can we stress anymore *Proper Springs* front and rear for *Your* weight?

That means fork springs and shock spring.

If you can't get in the general ball park of sag settings you will need different springs.

I think this is the most important track upgrade you buy. And you don't have to buy expensive ohlins or penske suspension. You can simply spring the stock suspension for you weight by changing the springs.
 

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I'm just gonna stop this.

Race tires don't heat cycle. Heat cycling is a process by which the rubber becomes hard and unuseable through continued heating and cooling.

The fact is that current production radial race tires have a thin amount of rubber. Rubber is worn away as it is used for traction. When the rubber wears away, the tires ability to maintain heat in the carcass is reduced. It is reduced to a point where the tire doesn't develop grip.

This happens pretty darn quick. The best part of the race tire is the first eight to eighteen laps. It drops and continues to drop from there. At that point, the track day style tires have better consistent traction for a longer period.


If you want, I have a front and rear race take off Michelin that I'd sell for $60 shipped. That would include the race distribution only "C" front. Should be able to find Michelin Pilot Powers for around $250.
As a slow guy, I can attest that I've heat cycled race tires before using the rubber up. I wasn't going all that fast and as a result didn't really wear the rubber much, and they did get hard before the rubber was gone or worn to a significant degree. They'd get up to temp by the end of a slow session, only to cool off without warmers. And, as slow as I was going, the rubber remained for 4-5 weekends. Hence, The tire would suffer dozens of cycles before I wore it out.

Heat cycling may not be an issue at a faster pace and/or with warmers. (thats why I said it can be an issue, not will be an issue) The OP said he'd only been to one trackday. Not everyone is a tire-eating machine and probably won't use up most of a DOT race tire in 8-18 laps. :robewizar
 

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LOL I ran the same set of corsa's for the whole season (10 track days) if you go slow enough like me they last :laughing
 

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Not everyone is a tire-eating machine and probably won't use up most of a DOT race tire in 8-18 laps. :robewizar
So you're saying I'm slow if I still have plenty of rubber left on my 208GPA after two weekends at Putnam :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks everyone so yeah I'll stick with the Pilot powers as I do not want to get warmers until I get to be better and it's much cheaper to use the powers.
So Super Dave is the man when it comes to suspension setup. I definately need some help there as I am clueless and would love to setup something in the springtime to pay someone to setup my bike.

G2G I may have to ask more questions about those ss lines as I was just gonna pick up a set from Galfer but don't know all that much about it.

I really need to learn how to wrench more I'm gonna have to get in on those nights people donate their garage space to have people come over. Maybe I'll do that when I move and just provide the space and hopefully everyone else can provide the knowledge. lol
 

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Brakelines get the -2 lines. Alot better than regular steel braided lines. Also get SRJL Vesrah brake pads for the front.

Get you suspension dialed in

Set of dot race tires. any brand will do
What are -2 lines?

(not being a smart ass)
 

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I was wondering the same thing.

All I know about aftermarket lines is that there are 2 down line kits, that means two lines go down from the master. Then there is a one down, loop over kit...

I didn't like the idea of a one down loop over and got a 2down kit.
 
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