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teets
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I have this really weird car issue with my 2000 Honda Accord. It's been like this for awhile now.

After a really long ride (say a 1 hour commute from work to home), I park my car at home for a few minutes to pick up something and when I start it again it starts up but the RPMs flicker and then it dies. The only way to get it going is to start the car and while in park rev the engine to 3-4k rpms and drop it to drive quickly and hit the gas. If im not quick enough the engine dies... I have to make sure i'm driving for a good minute or two for it to stay idle at a little under 1k and not die at the stop sign. Initially, the car putts around as well.. like when I gas it .. it sounds funny and revs funny until I've been driving for a few minutes.

Any ideas what maybe causing this? It ONLY happens when the engine is warmed up and/or riding for more than 45 minutes. I never have problems starting it cold.
 

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CLSB's Florida Chapter.,
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22,652 Posts
could be a hot soak problem (fuel in the fuel rail boils when the car isn't running and in a sense is 'vapor lock')

or you have a idle air speed motor that is sticking.

i would have to drive it to give you a better guess.
 

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Irony helps us play!
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29,500 Posts
Mine does it too (VR4).. From what I understand it's a common problem that is heat related to restarting. I don't know the cause, but I believe some sensor or reading is way off throwing off the computer. After running a while, it clears up.

I'll follow that lead, Mopar.. thanks.
 

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Fear is the mind killer
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8,770 Posts
Dynojet Power Commander will solve your problem, make sure it is tuned right and adjust the idle accordingly :jester.






Seriously, I hope you can get it fixed, I know nothing of cars myself. Now my motto for cars is when they start to break down often, time to trade them in :).
 

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Irony helps us play!
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Arch, let me know if you figure it out... It's a pain in the asshole.
My 95 base model did it, my 99 vr4 does it. They did it even brand new. Not every time, but enough that I knew exactly what you were referring to :)

So, that leads me to believe it's not a usable part getting worn out but more heat related.. like a sensor is reading too high.. after running (and the coolant doing its job removing the heat like it should) it clears right up...

After reading up on the hot/heat soak problems, it could also be the fuel line is routed too close to the exhaust, causing the fuel in there to vaporaize... and running will draw cooler fuel from the tank towards the engine.. I dunno.. need to look into this some more..
 

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CRF50 Squid
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Check your blinker fluid.
 

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Registered
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could be a hot soak problem (fuel in the fuel rail boils when the car isn't running and in a sense is 'vapor lock')
Vapor lock can be caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator or check valve. What happens is that the pressure in the fuel line drops after you shut the engine (and fuel pump) off. This causes the gas to boil (because pressurizing a liquid raising the boiling temp). Gas in vapor form does not go through the injectors very well. If you wait until the engine cools, the vapor should turn back to liquid and you won't have a problem. You need to check for residual fuel pressure. The fuel pressure regulator and check valve both maintain fuel pressure in the lines after the fuel pump has shut off. You can hook up a fuel gauge and check to see if you still have residual pressure. Another possible problem is that the fuel pump relay is overheating which is a common problem in some Hondas. I believe you can resolder some stuff on the relay and it will fix the problem.
 

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CRF50 Squid
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Didn't you say you were going to buy a BMW M3 anyway? Go on with your bad self.
 

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CRF50 Squid
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I see you in a used Camry in 2 years.
 

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Chief Apex Inspector
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Just slide the fork tubes up to..... ah - nevemind.


Tom
 

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CRF50 Squid
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Let me guess.. your used camry?? :twofinger
You wish. I am never selling you my Camry. TRD supercharger, Bilsten struts, Eibach springs. It's a sleeper in disguise.
 
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