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Model citizen
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a line on a brand new set of forks springs, valves and all new seals for the bike. Good price too.

The springs he has are the 1.0kg/mm. I was origionally going to go with 0.85 or 0.90 springs. From everything I've read, the 1.0 might be a bit stiff for my weight.

I'm 190 lbs without gear. Bike weighs in around 420 lbs dry. 100% street duty up to this point, (might see a track day or two next year).

My question is, will the 1.0kg springs be ok? Will there be a realistic difference between the 1.0kg/mm he has and the 0.90kg/mm I was planning on buying? Any thoughs?
 

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The Halo hides my Horns
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I'm not a suspension expert, but those who are told me for the SV at 220lbs with gear I should have .90 with 20w fork oil.

Peanuts bike has .90 and with her weight the forks don't compress at all. She bounces a bit hard over bumps.

I'm not sure if you big zook needs a different spring setup or if you'll find 1.0 springs hard on your wrists.
 

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Si Vis Pacem Parabellum
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One thing someone mentioned in my forks thread was that you can always dial down the stiffness (assuming you have adjustable forks) but you can't make weak springs stronger.
 

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Now after thinking about it get the .95 just incasr you gain a couple of pounds lol with your gear and any gear you attach to your bike.95 will be plenty. You can alway back off the preload.
 

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One thing someone mentioned in my forks thread was that you can always dial down the stiffness (assuming you have adjustable forks) but you can't make weak springs stronger.
wrong. thats what preload adjusters are for. You can only compensate so much then you need to go to a stiffer spring.
 

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Model citizen
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
after 5 minutes of mental debating, its a now a dead issue

Steve and Raven backed up with what I thought I knew all along...plus I just checked my present finanical situation. :laughing

nevermind. Thanks guys :cheers

When the time comes I'm gonna go with the 0.90's
 

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eric replacing the fork fluid does wonders for the handleing of a bike. It should be done at least once a year. For the track twice a year.
 

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Model citizen
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
eric replacing the fork fluid does wonders for the handleing of a bike. It should be done at least once a year. For the track twice a year.
Thats the plan. Forks are comming off for a fluid change irreguardless. Figure as long as they're out and apart, I'll do springs and valves
 

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Model citizen
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yeah. I'm sure it's 10 year old fluid and stock springs. Forks don't leak at all though. Knock on wood

Stock springs spec out at 0.75
 

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Former Chicagoian
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864 Posts
I put .95s in my bike per the RaceTech online calculator....I'm 175. Bike came stock with .8s and 5wt oil. The race teck springs and 15wt oil have made a world of difference.

EDIT - they recommended .9s for the street.
 

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Premium Member
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FWIW - .95 - 1.0 are the correct springs for your weight on the track.
Ron weighs less than you, and uses 1.0, he had to upgrade from his .95 springs. I weigh 193 out of the shower, and use .95 and will be putting in 1.0 next time around.

FWIW
 

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Just FYI this is for the street not track.

Also weight doesn't always predict spring weight. How fast and hard you ride your bike is another big factor. The quicker you get the heavier the spring you need. For example if me and Aaron Yates weighed 160 pounds and rode the same exact bike, he would have stiffer springs than me because he is alot faster than I am and pushes the bike harder.
 

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One thing someone mentioned in my forks thread was that you can always dial down the stiffness (assuming you have adjustable forks) but you can't make weak springs stronger.
Actually, you can't dial it down or up with the preload adjusters. The rate stays the same on a straight rate spring. The rate is 1.0 on a 1.0 spring, unless you put some kind of extra spacer inside that compresses the spring so wildly that the coils contact each other...then the rate increases dramatically.

Preload only changes the height at which you start compressing the spring under the weight of the bike and then with the weight of the bike and the rider.

A lot of guys were using 1.0's on SV1000's at my weight, 175#, for race track use. I was using a rising rate spring. Preload affects a rising rate spring differently than a straight rate.
 

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Model citizen
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just FYI this is for the street not track.

Also weight doesn't always predict spring weight. How fast and hard you ride your bike is another big factor. The quicker you get the heavier the spring you need. For example if me and Aaron Yates weighed 160 pounds and rode the same exact bike, he would have stiffer springs than me because he is alot faster than I am and pushes the bike harder.
+1

I only ride on the street and I don't have the ability or the balls to push the bike anywhere near its suspension limits. I figure I'll split the difference between the recommened track spring rate and the street spring weight. Should be a good place to start.

I want something a little better than the 10 year old popo sticks that are on there now. Plus I just want to take shit apart :)
 
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