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Workin' up to the track
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some advice please. Here's what I know:

2001 R6 hasn't seen the track yet :( and I don't do burnouts so my bike has seen only "normal" riding conditions. The oil is only about 1500 miles old on a bike with a bit over 6K miles.

Here's the problem:
It seems like there is no 'travel' left in the clutch. I have adjusted the clutch cable at the clutch lever as far as it will go. (I went both directions in case the adj worked opposite of common sense.) When I say no travel, it almost feels like I am shifting without pulling in the clutch lever. There is no problem with the clutch lever itself, but on an uphill start in first gear, letting out the clutch is an all or nothing proposition. There is no middle ground or what I call travel left to moderate the amout of power going to the chain. If the clutch plates were worn out I would expect a more severe problem in first and then it would get better up thru the gears. The shift in 6th gear feels the same as the shift in 2nd gear.

I have my own theories, but would be interested in yours before I start spending time on more complex repairs.

Thanks in advance.
Ron
 

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I'm at work so I can't be for sure on this, but if I remember right, can also adjust the clutch tension on the right side of the bike down by the oil pump cover.


Doc
 

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Workin' up to the track
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I'll give that a look. How many miles do you have/did you get on your factory clutch?
 

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I have almost 9,000. I don't wheelie often, but I do run it hard at the track. I've never had any problems besides the occasional miss shift going into second (typical of Yamaha's).

If it is your clutch plates, then it sounds like premature wear. If that's the case, hopefully you can get the work done under warranty.

Doc
 

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BEER!
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Doc's right here. If you are out of play with the clutch adjustment at the handle you need to adjust it down where it goes into the engine. This is MUCH easier if you have the manual handy. Hell, borrow it from somebody if you have to. Suzuki screwed up with with the diagrams for this on MY bike, they pointed to the wrong nuts :mad

1.) Place the adjuster on the handle in the mid range.
2.) Take the clutch cover off. If you need help, just follow the clutch cable down.
3.) Loosen the adjustment nuts down there so you can have cable play. Get it so that the clutch play is correct. Then tighten them back up. This can take some time.
4.) Do any fine tuning at the handlebar and reassemble.

You should also get some cable lube for the cables while you are at it. If you haven't lubed the cable yet, it's definately due. I got a cable life lubing tool ($15 with the spray lube) and I was surprised at how much crap was in there.

Any R6 rider should be able to help you out a lot more than this.

Chris

Doc said:
I'm at work so I can't be for sure on this, but if I remember right, can also adjust the clutch tension on the right side of the bike down by the oil pump cover.


Doc
 

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Yep,

there is another adjustment near the clutch casing cover. If your getting premature wear you should check what oil your using. Certain kinds of Mobil 1 synthetic will tear that clutch up. I used to use Mobil 1 synthetic because it's thin oil for drag racing and I went through 2 clutches a year. Granted I beat the crap out of it but with a good synthetic oil like Tony's house of oil Amsoil you won't get anywhere near that kind of wear;)
 

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Workin' up to the track
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the advice. I will tear into it this weekend and see what luck I have. Anyone have a shop manual for the 2001 R6 that I could borrow?
 

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I have one. You could bring your bike down on Saturday to my neck of the woods or download it off the internet at www.yzfr6.net The link is under the resources section.

But seriously, you are welcome to come down. I'm not doing anything that day and I am going to try and talk Michael into coming down for a damper install/coolant flush.

Let me know.


Doc
 

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Just PM me or give me a call (815) 468-1618


Doc
 

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Workin' up to the track
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Doc - Thanks for the offer. I had a wedding this weekend (not mine) that kept me away. I did find time to change the oil, I used Golden Spectrum and it seems to have helped a bit but it isn't back to where it was. Next is trying the clucth adjustment.

Thanks again for the advice and especially the link to the shop manual, that helped a ton
 

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Just a little FYI...I am free on most Sundays. Just give me a little notice before hand.


Doc
 

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Lovin this Twin
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If I remember right............... clutchs' are not covered under warranty unless the basket breaks, its a wear item.

You should get way more then 6k out of a clutch, unless ofcourse your a clutch smoker.
I agree with Crazy here, I think you might of used an oil that wasnt meant for a wet clutch, it does tear them up quick.
If you do have to replace the clutch disks, dont let the salesman talk you into the metals, I almost guarantee they will be fine. And its very easy to change them out.

Im still confused as to why so many people use synthetic oils. Im sure they are good but................I cant think of a bike that the manufacturer actually calls for synthetic:confused

If you change it regularly the 10W or 5W it calls for works just fine{ and it doesnt tear up the clutch}
just my .02$
 

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If the metals are the correct thickness, not grooved or warped from a slipping clutch, and not cracked, you most likely will not need them. Make sure your assembled stack thickness is within spec.

Also, once you have used a clutch you should always keep track of the order or the plates and try not to rotate them. You want the clutch to go back the same way it came apart so that the mated parts stay together.

Your clutch plates will definately not be covered by warranty unless they come apart or show obvious manufacturing defects.
 
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