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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I had a nice day of riding and when I got home I found a not so nice nail stuck right in the middle of my rear tire.:mad Which brings me to my question now that I have to get a new tire what do you guys think about race takeoffs, where could i get them cheap, and if I don't get takeoffs should i get one or two new tires (I have about 5500 miles of light riding on my r6 standerd Dunlops)? The reason I am asking is because a friend of mine told me that you could get really nice takeoffs with about 80% tread still left on them in the middle.
 

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I can make my bike lean!
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Forget about the race take offs when you can get top-flight tires brand new for under $200 delivered (BT-010's) Race tires on the street are kind of shadey as they never really warm up to where they really stick, and could lead to some interesting handleing, or lack thereof.
 

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You already have to pay $40-50 to get them installed, so you might as well spend the extra cash and jsut get new tires. You can get M1's or BT010's for around $200-220 including shipping at discountmotorcycletire.com.

For a novice rider, I'd go with the BT010's. Great mileage, smoother ride, and a little more stable. The M1's make a ltitle unstable at low speeds since they don't square off very much and have a very rounded profile.

You can use a plug kit also, but it can be a gamble. Although YZFRabbit put a plug in my tire using a roadside repair kit and it made it 3000 miles until I repalaced the tire when the cords were showing.
 

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YZFRabbit said:
Forget about the race take offs when you can get top-flight tires brand new for under $200 delivered (BT-010's) Race tires on the street are kind of shadey as they never really warm up to where they really stick, and could lead to some interesting handleing, or lack thereof.
I've been told by a few tire guys whom I respect that in dry conditions; at any given temperature, the race compound tire will have more grip.

I've run race tires on the street and they work fine. You just have to be aware that the tread life sucks due to the softer compound and due to the aggresive tread you WOULDN'T want to get caught in the rain.


PS- Rabbit--- if you care to try I've got a set of 208GP takeoffs I'd give ya for next to nothing. You might find you really like the super quick turn in and feel. :cheers :thumbsup :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What do you guys think Metzeler M1 for $221 or Michelin Pilot Sport for $244, I am really leaning towards the Michelins.
 

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Michael said:


get the M1's .. they are awesome tires! :D
I'll second that.
 

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I can make my bike lean!
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vtr996 said:
PS- Rabbit--- if you care to try I've got a set of 208GP takeoffs I'd give ya for next to nothing. You might find you really like the super quick turn in and feel. :cheers :thumbsup :cheers
I like my tires brand new...prolly go with 012's or M1's pretty soon.
 

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Although YZFRabbit put a plug in my tire using a roadside repair kit and it made it 3000 miles until I replaced the tire when the cords were showing. [/B]
CORDS SHOWING? You're kidding, right? The wear bar indicators in most tires are the gauge of wear limits, and around here tires usually get flat spotted bad enough to throw off handling before that point. Tire profile is squared---> bike feels terrible/funky as it rolls over flat edge to rounded portion in any cornering.

Unless you did burnouts at the end to finish it off:rofl
 

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I can make my bike lean!
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Sandman said:


CORDS SHOWING? You're kidding, right? The wear bar indicators in most tires are the gauge of wear limits, and around here tires usually get flat spotted bad enough to throw off handling before that point. Tire profile is squared---> bike feels terrible/funky as it rolls over flat edge to rounded portion in any cornering.
Huh? We dont do any cornering around here, usually we walk the bike around a turn...plus once the cords start showing, even the little 600's like Mikes bike do really easy burnouts at Streets of Woodfield.:jester
 

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Sandman said:


CORDS SHOWING? You're kidding, right? The wear bar indicators in most tires are the gauge of wear limits, and around here tires usually get flat spotted bad enough to throw off handling before that point. Tire profile is squared---> bike feels terrible/funky as it rolls over flat edge to rounded portion in any cornering.

Unless you did burnouts at the end to finish it off:rofl
The tire was wearing unevenly. I rode to Grand Rapids, then to my Parents house near Ann Arbor. I put on 500 miels before I even ahd ot head home. I was at the wear indicator when I started, but I figured I could make it. Then I looked at the more worn part heading home. Yikes. To make it bakc I onl;y went 70mph, increased he tire pressure to 40psi, dropped my front preload all the way down and increased the rear preload a little. I also reduced the rear dampening. Around freeway turns I even hung off the bike in the wrong direction to increase my lean angle.

The M1's actaully don;t square off nearly as bad as the BT010's plus they had 2 track days on them. I'm picky about tire pressure and suspension settings, but a squared off tire doesn't; bother me very much.

it wasn't totally cords. I was actually at the really dark, hard rubber they use as the basis for the carcass which is about 1/16" thick or so. it actually looks liek the tire is delaminating a little.

But the plug held.

My front however is cupped pretty bad and has 3 track days on it, so I'm replacing that before my next track day even though it still has some tread left. On the street a little cupping doesn't bother me becasue I rarely brake that hard anyway.

i don;t do burnouts. It just too expensive. I'll do one sometimes the scuff the tre in a little. The mold release compound is very slick on the M1's as with most tires. I've almost ended up on a my ass a few times.
 
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