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Ninja Kick!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My shitbox is due to be taken for emissions testing, however the check engine light is on and I don't have the time nor inclination to deal with it myself. OBDII codes are P0325 and P0400. Basically I'm after someone who can either fix my junker or do whatever else is needed to get it past inspection. I checked with my scan tool and it doesn't store the last clear time or warm up counter so a 'fix' may be as simple as a clear and test. Either way, I'd prefer to chuck one of the fine mechanics on the board some cash and have it dealt with. Anyone interested?
 

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CLSB's Florida Chapter.,
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P0325 - Knock sensor circuit
P0400 - EGR circuit (flow or electrical)

Ok, so if you clear the codes and went to get tested. they would tell you to come back later. the vehicle needs to run its CARB readyness tests before you can pass emissions.

what kindof scanner are you using? some are able to check to see if the vehicle has run these tests at least once.

depending on your year/make/model will determine what tests have to be run to pass CARB readyness. So its possible you might get away with clearing the codes and driving it around for a bit then get her tested.

To actually fix the problems your gonna want to take it to a shop. And not to mine. i charge $119 per hour and i only work on Mopars :)
 

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Ninja Kick!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm using a Auto Enginuity (PC based tool.) It's a 97 Maxima GLE and from my tinkering I found the on board passes back very little information. I'm reasonably sure this model/year fails to provide information regardless of scan tool. Any suggestions as to verifying this? It was suggested to me that the exhaust manifold bolts have a habit of snapping and causing both of these probs.
 

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CLSB's Florida Chapter.,
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well its OBD-II so its feedback should be pretty decent. however your using a generic scan tool. i'm sure a nissan tool will give you more info.

i have no idea about the exhaust manifold bolts, doesn't really seem logical, but who knows with crazy jap cars. :laughing
 

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My shitbox is due to be taken for emissions testing, however the check engine light is on and I don't have the time nor inclination to deal with it myself. OBDII codes are P0325 and P0400. Basically I'm after someone who can either fix my junker or do whatever else is needed to get it past inspection. I checked with my scan tool and it doesn't store the last clear time or warm up counter so a 'fix' may be as simple as a clear and test. Either way, I'd prefer to chuck one of the fine mechanics on the board some cash and have it dealt with. Anyone interested?
i would be willing to try to help you out. i work in Schaumburg at the municipal building. if you can swing by at 3:30pm i will hook you up to a master tech scanner and let you know what can be done.

well its OBD-II so its feedback should be pretty decent. however your using a generic scan tool. i'm sure a nissan tool will give you more info.

i have no idea about the exhaust manifold bolts, doesn't really seem logical, but who knows with crazy jap cars. :laughing
+1
 

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CLSB's Florida Chapter.,
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i would be willing to try to help you out. i work in Schaumburg at the municipal building. if you can swing by at 3:30pm i will hook you up to a master tech scanner and let you know what can be done.
i really need a job there.
 

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Did you check the live sensor data of the knock sensor? I know the auto enginuity tool will allow you to check a bunch of sensors at once. Try disconnecting the knock sensor and check for a change in the output. You can also short the sensor and check the output. When you disconnect it the voltage should go to zero and when you short it it should go to 5V. Be careful whenever shorting stuff because you can burn components out and/or start a fire. If you disconnect the sensor and short it and nothing happens to the sensor output, the problem is most likely in the wiring. If the sensor output changes then the wiring should be fine and the problem is sensor related. For the EGR, push the diagram of the EGR in while its idling. If the engine starts to bog down and run badly, the EGR valve is working fine but is not receiving the signal to open or the solenoid is not opening the valve.
 

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Mopar if you’re serious i can let you know when there is an opening. all bs aside, it is a great place to work.

Insomniac give me a call tomorrow to confirm you will be there and i will wait for you. i'll pm you the #
 

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If you want a great gig, work as a mechanic for the railroad. They train you and supply all tools, and if something breaks, it is not your fault. PM me for details.
 

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For the EGR, push the diagram of the EGR in while its idling. If the engine starts to bog down and run badly, the EGR valve is working fine but is not receiving the signal to open or the solenoid is not opening the valve.

are the nissans still the diaghram style? i thought they where pretty much controled by soleniods across the board now-a-days? well that is if they still have egr's. seems like more cars are comming without egr's now
 

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If you want a great gig, work as a mechanic for the railroad. They train you and supply all tools, and if something breaks, it is not your fault. PM me for details.
thought about it, but ehh i know some people that do it.. not my cup of coffee

are the nissans still the diaghram style? i thought they where pretty much controled by soleniods across the board now-a-days? well that is if they still have egr's. seems like more cars are comming without egr's now
97 might still be. EGRs started to make a phase out in the 01-04 cars. but then with the advancement of being able to pulse the EGR, now they are making a comeback. as of now cars will even open the EGR during idle cause as sensors and CPUs get better and faster, they can even account for the amount of reburn't fuel and increase MPG.
 

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are the nissans still the diaghram style? i thought they where pretty much controled by soleniods across the board now-a-days? well that is if they still have egr's. seems like more cars are comming without egr's now
You have to have an EGR by federal emissions regulations I believe. I didn't actually check what kind of EGR the Nissan uses when I wrote that. I assumed it uses a diaphragm style controlled by a solenoid. I looked it up. The Nissan has an EGR control solenoid and an EGR valve (looks like a diagram style). The solenoid controls a vacuum. When the solenoid is activated, vacuum goes to the EGR valve, allowing the EGR to open. When the solenoid is grounded, vacuum does not flow to the EGR valve. I haven't seen the EGR valve in real life, just a diagram so I'm not sure if you can push the diaphragm in but in other cars you can.
 

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Ninja Kick!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I do believe my service manual said you needed to use a vacuum to open the EGR. That said, I by far prefer working on bikes. Cars are just no fun.
 

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I do believe my service manual said you needed to use a vacuum to open the EGR. That said, I by far prefer working on bikes. Cars are just no fun.
In that case, apply vacuum to the EGR vacuum port. It should still bog down and run badly at idle.
 
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