Here's a simple answer. When in doubt change them, remember these 2 tires are the only thing in contact with the ground, if you have doubts about them change them why play chicken with your life??
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See, I new all this but you know how sometimes you use the board in hopes that somone will tell you something you don't know, and that you would prefer to hear (yes I'm cheap). My experience with Kart racing taought me all those lessons, so I need to go home and order me some new buns.
t SBN sucks for getting good serious feedback, you guys rock and I wish to god we had a board of folks up here like I did back there with you all.
However it is pretty frekin cool living up here, did I mention that my tires are worn almost as badly on the edges as they are in the middle. That never happened to me in Chi town :twofinger
Nick
t SBN sucks for getting good serious feedback, you guys rock and I wish to god we had a board of folks up here like I did back there with you all.However it is pretty frekin cool living up here, did I mention that my tires are worn almost as badly on the edges as they are in the middle. That never happened to me in Chi town :twofinger
Nick
Or just change them every few weeks, when ever a comapny comes out with a new tire like Ken does
NICKY MY BOY!!!! who's ya daddy?:laughing
Hey man how's the baby?...hope you guys are doing well.
anyway,,,since your a daddy...this is my rule of thumb.
For the front...usually you can go 3 rear tires to the front tire.
So when do ya change the front?
ANSWER: ass soon as it cups, cupping front tires are inconsistent in cornering grip due to the variations in raising and sinking contact patches.
The rear.
My rule of thumb is...the CENTER of the tire...once the tread has worn down to ALMOST the deepest part of the INNER thread almost to the thickness of a match book, in the next 100 miles get some rear tires put on.
i have ran MANY tires to the BARE minimum to the point of (being an idiot) having the cords show as i save my self 4 times in 1 ride while leaning it full over and the rear tire was clasping on itself because it wasn't able to hold it carcass together right (REALLY STUPID). also too most tires...and i KNOW FOR A FACT on the bto10's they don't have much rubber between the cords and the inner tire...MEANING that you have LESS then 1/2 a match book thickness, and TEMPS like we have now..non the less highway cruising, heating the tires..and HIGH speeds 75mpr and up...your ass COULD have a blow out...i was fucken freaked when i had my bto's took off when the rubber started flicking off and showing the cords that when i put my finger from the inner side of the tire and pushed out...i could almost see my FINGER NAIL
And to think..i was doing 170mpr runs the day before.
heres a tip, from what ya said. DON'T be ripping ass in 1st gear around corners...UNLESS you know how to play the slide. ON ANY TIRE. 2nd get ya self a pair of M1 sportechs.
they can run lower, (closer to race pressure all the time with no side affects and nothing but GREAT feel)
bto's 10 &12ss , Dunlop's 207s, pilot races, ALL CUP nasty when you run nothing less the FULL Max load pressure (Max psi is for carry that g/f when she is on the back) in general, run COLD PSI 33f and 34r
that's a good mild all around pressure
Ya wanna get more aggressive in canon carving? Run 31/31 will feel alittle sluggish in parking lot moves, but once up to speed (normal riding and cornering) the tire will heat a touch more and have better contact patch to the street, up or while leaned over.
oh fuck...looks i wrote a book.
anyway go with M1's and run 32/32 and your gonna fucken love them, the front NEVER cups and the rear stays pretty consistent OVER IT TOTAL life, heats up fast, sticky ass tire, and great flick in grip!!!!
Hey man how's the baby?...hope you guys are doing well.
anyway,,,since your a daddy...this is my rule of thumb.
For the front...usually you can go 3 rear tires to the front tire.
So when do ya change the front?
ANSWER: ass soon as it cups, cupping front tires are inconsistent in cornering grip due to the variations in raising and sinking contact patches.
The rear.
My rule of thumb is...the CENTER of the tire...once the tread has worn down to ALMOST the deepest part of the INNER thread almost to the thickness of a match book, in the next 100 miles get some rear tires put on.
i have ran MANY tires to the BARE minimum to the point of (being an idiot) having the cords show as i save my self 4 times in 1 ride while leaning it full over and the rear tire was clasping on itself because it wasn't able to hold it carcass together right (REALLY STUPID). also too most tires...and i KNOW FOR A FACT on the bto10's they don't have much rubber between the cords and the inner tire...MEANING that you have LESS then 1/2 a match book thickness, and TEMPS like we have now..non the less highway cruising, heating the tires..and HIGH speeds 75mpr and up...your ass COULD have a blow out...i was fucken freaked when i had my bto's took off when the rubber started flicking off and showing the cords that when i put my finger from the inner side of the tire and pushed out...i could almost see my FINGER NAIL
And to think..i was doing 170mpr runs the day before.
heres a tip, from what ya said. DON'T be ripping ass in 1st gear around corners...UNLESS you know how to play the slide. ON ANY TIRE. 2nd get ya self a pair of M1 sportechs.
they can run lower, (closer to race pressure all the time with no side affects and nothing but GREAT feel)
bto's 10 &12ss , Dunlop's 207s, pilot races, ALL CUP nasty when you run nothing less the FULL Max load pressure (Max psi is for carry that g/f when she is on the back) in general, run COLD PSI 33f and 34r
that's a good mild all around pressure
Ya wanna get more aggressive in canon carving? Run 31/31 will feel alittle sluggish in parking lot moves, but once up to speed (normal riding and cornering) the tire will heat a touch more and have better contact patch to the street, up or while leaned over.
oh fuck...looks i wrote a book.
anyway go with M1's and run 32/32 and your gonna fucken love them, the front NEVER cups and the rear stays pretty consistent OVER IT TOTAL life, heats up fast, sticky ass tire, and great flick in grip!!!!
I'm getting the same feeling on my BT010s too, but I'm at 7000 miles which includes 2 whole track days.... I guess I'll need some new tires soon.Ernie said:
Ah, I've got to come back up there and hit RT 61 soon........... SWEETNick 600 F3 said:
I'm going to do HWY 1 in about 3 weeks, can't wait. (By the way, this is Anna with a diff. name)
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