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YO MAMA
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what have you guys been doing.

i WAS setting my sag with me on the bike to around 30mm front and back.

now i got it at 37mm front and 30 back

i noticed alot more travel with the new traxxion stuff with that sag and its working good..but i am still not use to that much travel..although so far i dont feel anything bad from it..since i got my comp/rebound set alot better now.

what you guys think or run?

first i thought you want the bike to have equal sag in the front and rear..now i heard you want more travel in front. which makes sense..but feels strange since the new forks:confused
 

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Hey Ken,

When you helped me with mine, we shot for equal 40/40 settings if I recall correctly.

I had Dan Kyle set my forks up and he suggested a front sag of 36-38mm and a rear of 26-28 for the rear for the street. I thought that sounded a bit stiff, espescially for the back, but if I can get them to those settings, we'll find out if he's right.

Apparently, even front and rear isn't "always" the way to go. Maybe some bikes are different, maybe it's just one man's opinion?
 

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YO MAMA
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i hear ya too bro...seems like things have changed on me from what i knew to a few weeks ago....seems about what i heard too from a local suspension pro.


seem like us both heard running upwards of 10mm more on the front can be done.

i do know even when i had my suspension set at 35/32 o had to crank the rear down more to 28mm at that point the bike hooked up well around the corners while rolling throttle and for sure when exiting the turn....freaking rear end would squat bad and run me wide....matt told me to tight the rear more and loosen compression in the rear and well guess what it worked..i came home measured and found 28mmrear and 30 front.

and it wors great on the differant tracks i went to..and on the street PERFECT for me..now my front has more travel..and it feel still alittle more action soaking and i am not 1000% sure of it still cause i havent tracked the bike since the fork redo.

soon i will though..but now it looks like next year maybe?
 

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I've heard from those much smarter than I at this, that the unloaded sag should be between 15 to 30 mm in front once the loaded sag has been set to between 35 and 45 mm. The range for the static (unloaded) sag in the rear is 2 to 6 mm once the loaded sag has been adjusted to between 25 to 32 mm.

This was for a 929 but sag is sag... usually :)
 

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YO MAMA
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i gotta do that next time i gotta couple guys over to measure the bikes sag on its own.

what happens steve if they dont fall in those sag areas bike alone when your in the right area with loaded sag (with rider)

does that mean spring tension is not correct..might need stiffer?
 

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usually (I think) it's the spacers... I know Bruce went through the same thing getting his sag setup in the front b/c the spacer that came w/the springs was too long.
 

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For the track yo uwant about 25% sag with the rider aboard.

Take you total shock travel and multiply it by 0.25. That will give you the correct amount of sag. Thne measure from the center of the axle to a fixed point on the tail section. More preload = less sag.

Typically you want 1" to 1-1/4" of sag. WARNING: too much sag is often worse than not enough. Many modern sportbike have progressive linkages and will ride very harsh if the bike is too soggy. For front preload measure the same or you can use a zip tie along with a front stand that allows you to top out the suspension.

TO figure out if you have the correct spring rate. You can measure the static sag of the bike. This should be 1/4"-1/2" in the rear.

Typically stock rear springs are too stiff and the fronts are too soft.

Good luck
 

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Odysseys said:
\freaking rear end would squat bad and run me wide....matt told me to tight the rear more and loosen compression in the rear and well guess what it worked..
\\
Dude.... you have 145 RWHP.... and you're geared down.... what the hell do you expect to happen when you hit the gas. :laughing

Get a 600 and stop complaining.

Getting a Penske, Fox or Olins on the rear, will solve a lot of traction issues. Sometimes stock shocks have their limitations... minly limited adjustability and they tend to overheat and start fading... just like brakes. I'm pretty sure that happenend ot me a BHF one time. Once the shock goes the tire starts to overheat too.
 

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cherrypicker said:


Dude.... you have 145 RWHP.... and you're geared down.... what the hell do you expect to happen when you hit the gas. :laughing

Get a 600 and stop complaining.

Getting a Penske, Fox or Olins on the rear, will solve a lot of traction issues. Sometimes stock shocks have their limitations... minly limited adjustability and they tend to overheat and start fading... just like brakes. I'm pretty sure that happenend ot me a BHF one time. Once the shock goes the tire starts to overheat too.
LOL your probably right about the shock...

Here are some of [email protected]'s quotes from the RRW Daytona test...

"This isn't a bad bike.....it takes a beating in the press.....but the problems are all in the chassis geometry. It sits like a chopper. It needs the back jacked WAY up to get some swingarm downslope(13degree's or better).......if you pick the back up the trail goes away. I recommend extending these forks internally 7-10mm and run them at stock height(in the triples)"

His ZX9R sag settings (with a 165lb rider)
Front: 22mm Free Sag/35mm Rider Sag
Rear: 10mm Free Sag/24mm Rider Sag
 

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Can he also just drop the front, by raisign the tubes in the forks.

Your right Mark, Ideally the rear slides a little, but the front is in the air and you're getting a few headshakes.... that riding on the edge.

Ken, I've seen soem photo's you also might not be putting enouhg of your own weight over the front. If you sit upright, the bike will push and overload the rear tire.

That's why you see guys pretty much lying on the tank in the corners. You still looked a bit upright in the last photo I saw.

I understand there are physical limitation. Not everyone can be a wimpy scrawny little pussy like me. Makes it easier ot ride bikes.
 

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YO MAMA
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
lol cherry.


this is what i done to my bike before and i like it.

raised the forks up threw the clamps..5mm

jacked up the rear 5mm

right now and the way its been...is borderline...needed steering stablizer...but i know how to keep them, under control.

other then that my rear i bet is set already to 28mm loaded sag.
and my front 36mm

so thats what i done with the geomitry of the bike.

and i am happy and i like it. (for what the 9r can do)
i also agree i need to get my body while leaned over more towards the front..but trust me cherry at gratten i was...OH i WAS...i had to..with all the trial breaking and throwing it in with this big boy...i did.

;)
 

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With my Fox shock came a chart that tells about each suspension adjustment and how it typically effects traction and handling.

I descent at feeling what the bike is doing... and I'm pretty sure you are too. I'm finding that I can get it close by feeling for it, then I start experimenting wiht 1 setting and a time to try and get it right.

Putnam for example being a smooth high speed track will have completely different suspension set-up than BHF. I'm guessing a little more preload and a more dampening. I might jack up the rear ride height a little also.
 
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