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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-30-2010, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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308 zero

now that the rock river is gone i'm going to pick up a 308 bolt action.

what do you guys zero at? Do you zero for 100m and use a ballistics calculator to calculate your dope?
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-30-2010, 04:58 PM
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Yes and learn your dope out to 700 yards atleast. Have a small printed chart with you at all times.



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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-30-2010, 05:42 PM
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100m 1" target.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 09:53 AM
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Many variables

Depends on if you know what your greatest distance will be and what type of reticle you are using, what caliber your using and what the limits are on your scope.

Anything under 500 yards and a 100 yard zero will work, 501 -900 and a 200 yard zero will do the trick, 901+ and 300 seems to be a good choice. Again, all depends on teh things above.

As long as you know your trajectory a reticle with a GOOD BDC will be worth it's weight in gold. GOOD reticle meaning Mil Dot, P4F, NPR2. A crosshair and duplex will have you working your turrets way to much if you are engaging moving targets at varying distances.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ofc. Ponch View Post
Many variables

Depends on if you know what your greatest distance will be and what type of reticle you are using, what caliber your using and what the limits are on your scope.

Anything under 500 yards and a 100 yard zero will work, 501 -900 and a 200 yard zero will do the trick, 901+ and 300 seems to be a good choice. Again, all depends on teh things above.

As long as you know your trajectory a reticle with a GOOD BDC will be worth it's weight in gold. GOOD reticle meaning Mil Dot, P4F, NPR2. A crosshair and duplex will have you working your turrets way to much if you are engaging moving targets at varying distances.
Any suggestions on a scope that is the best bang for the buck?

I was thinking of starting off with something simple to get practice working the turrets and getting the basics down before I drop $3k on some Hattori Hanzo glass
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 05:11 PM
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My advice would be a mildot reticle as it is universaly accepted. The only problem with that is that in a budget minded scope you will end up with a Mildot reticle which is metric system based and your windage and elevation adjustment will be in MOA which is english based. This isnt that big a deal and if you learn MIL/MOA from the beginning your fine.

The Super Sniper line is a good starting point, or if you have extra $ Leupold MK IV.

Otherwise Bushnell and might be worth a try in the sub $300 range.

The super sniper though is hard to beat as it has tons of windage and elevation travel.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 05:20 PM
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+1 to all poncho said in this thread.



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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ofc. Ponch View Post
My advice would be a mildot reticle as it is universaly accepted. The only problem with that is that in a budget minded scope you will end up with a Mildot reticle which is metric system based and your windage and elevation adjustment will be in MOA which is english based. This isnt that big a deal and if you learn MIL/MOA from the beginning your fine.

The Super Sniper line is a good starting point, or if you have extra $ Leupold MK IV.

Otherwise Bushnell and might be worth a try in the sub $300 range.

The super sniper though is hard to beat as it has tons of windage and elevation travel.
Thanks Ponch. I'll check those out. Metric vs english... it's everywhere from bike to cars/trucks to guns/ammo. My Ford Ranger had metric nuts/bolts and the US Military uses meters instead of yards for zeroing/ranges...???
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-04-2010, 03:38 AM
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+1 on the Leupold MK IV mil dot
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-04-2010, 08:49 AM
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The most important question is out to what distance are you planning on shooting regularly? Then make a cheat sheet for other distances.....

I like to zero for 50 yards with my 308, as you are +/- 3" out to 200 yards. I don't take many 200+ yard shots deer hunting (in NE mind you). This allows me to never change my scope from zero and still be right on.

Now you gonna go do antelope or something where a 400yd shot isn't unheard of out in Wyoming... well you just either adjust (clicking the knobs), or calculate and change your zero ahead of time.

also something to think about with the mil dots, most ballistic calc will give you drop in inches (what i list below) and drop in MIL, which make for easy adjust on the fly. a drop of 2 MIL, means put the second dot down on the reticle on the target and you are on target..... Just a thought.

50 yard zero with Sierra 165gr, Gameking.... (my centerline scope height is 1.5")

0 -1.5
25 -0.6
50 0.0
75 0.3
100 0.3
125 -0.1
150 -0.7
175 -1.8
200 -3.2
225 -5.0
250 -7.2

Same set up but a 100 yard zero... I don't see the benefit of the 100 yard zero ( now i do zero at 50, then shoot at 100 or 200 to check it...LOL).

0 -1.5
25 -0.7
50 -0.1
75 0.1
100 -0.0
125 -0.4
150 -1.2
175 -2.3
200 -3.8
225 -5.6

EDIT: I've also seen people suggest a 36yard zero or some weird thing (as a "battle zero), and when you run the numbers it seems optimal but find a range with 36yards marked off.... you can do it yourself, but most ranges don't allow that or have mobile target.

Most importantly is get it zeroed, and then know how to adjust for other distances by MIL or by clicking your scope knobs, and learn to estimate distances. Once you are zeroed you can get to whatever distance you want by math, hold over or clickys.

Last edited by PaleHorse; 11-04-2010 at 08:59 AM.
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2010, 11:23 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaleHorse View Post
The most important question is out to what distance are you planning on shooting regularly? Then make a cheat sheet for other distances.....

I like to zero for 50 yards with my 308, as you are +/- 3" out to 200 yards. I don't take many 200+ yard shots deer hunting (in NE mind you). This allows me to never change my scope from zero and still be right on.

Now you gonna go do antelope or something where a 400yd shot isn't unheard of out in Wyoming... well you just either adjust (clicking the knobs), or calculate and change your zero ahead of time.

also something to think about with the mil dots, most ballistic calc will give you drop in inches (what i list below) and drop in MIL, which make for easy adjust on the fly. a drop of 2 MIL, means put the second dot down on the reticle on the target and you are on target..... Just a thought.

50 yard zero with Sierra 165gr, Gameking.... (my centerline scope height is 1.5")

0 -1.5
25 -0.6
50 0.0
75 0.3
100 0.3
125 -0.1
150 -0.7
175 -1.8
200 -3.2
225 -5.0
250 -7.2

Same set up but a 100 yard zero... I don't see the benefit of the 100 yard zero ( now i do zero at 50, then shoot at 100 or 200 to check it...LOL).

0 -1.5
25 -0.7
50 -0.1
75 0.1
100 -0.0
125 -0.4
150 -1.2
175 -2.3
200 -3.8
225 -5.6

EDIT: I've also seen people suggest a 36yard zero or some weird thing (as a "battle zero), and when you run the numbers it seems optimal but find a range with 36yards marked off.... you can do it yourself, but most ranges don't allow that or have mobile target.

Most importantly is get it zeroed, and then know how to adjust for other distances by MIL or by clicking your scope knobs, and learn to estimate distances. Once you are zeroed you can get to whatever distance you want by math, hold over or clickys.
What would you zero a 7mm mag at and how much drop will Walmart $17 150gr federals have out to 600 yds? We're going to blow up some pumpkins that over stayed their welcome and maybe a milk jug or two filled with water.

TIA

Last edited by Superspud needs his med's; 11-06-2010 at 11:27 AM.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2010, 01:36 PM
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100 2.17
200 8.97
300 21.68
400 42.03
500 72.39
600 115.98
700 177.12
800 261.11
900 373.47
1000 519.23


Theres teh bullet drop for a 7mm bullet with a BC of .283 at a speed of 3110.

Based on the above info, the knowledge you gained in previous posts and the knowledge of your equipment you tell us what you zeroed at

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2010, 01:39 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ofc. Ponch View Post
100 2.17
200 8.97
300 21.68
400 42.03
500 72.39
600 115.98
700 177.12
800 261.11
900 373.47
1000 519.23


Theres teh bullet drop for a 7mm bullet with a BC of .283 at a speed of 3110.

Based on the above info, the knowledge you gained in previous posts and the knowledge of your equipment you tell us what you zeroed at
200 yards
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-06-2010, 02:51 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ofc. Ponch View Post
100 2.17
200 8.97
300 21.68
400 42.03
500 72.39
600 115.98
700 177.12
800 261.11
900 373.47
1000 519.23


Theres teh bullet drop for a 7mm bullet with a BC of .283 at a speed of 3110.

Based on the above info, the knowledge you gained in previous posts and the knowledge of your equipment you tell us what you zeroed at
zeroed at 200 b/c I read the info that came with the scope

I read the specs of the ammo I bought. read the magnum 3000+fps, zero at 200 verbage and make notes and adjust from there that was included with the scope.


http://demigodllc.com/articles/pract...equipment/?p=2

Last edited by Superspud needs his med's; 11-06-2010 at 11:14 PM.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2010, 08:54 AM
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LOL. you found Zak Smith's write up.

Zak is good people.

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2010, 12:00 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSpud View Post
200 yards
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ofc. Ponch View Post
LOL. you found Zak Smith's write up.

Zak is good people.
so do I win a puppy?
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2010, 01:34 PM
 
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just about to leave for some shooting.

we'll probably run out of daylight before we run out of ammo.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2010, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSpud View Post
so do I win a puppy?
Nope, you get a wealth of knowledge.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2010, 06:21 PM
 
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just about to leave for some shooting.

we'll probably run out of daylight before we run out of ammo.
well the AR is consistent. It was low and we were making good progress until the scope got bumped off then ran out of daylight. The 7mm hit the gigantic red tree I was aiming at in all 6 shots just not the target I was aiming at. We started at around 150 yards. Target size was a 8.5x11 piece of paper with one or four targets printed on it. The ar was shooting at 4 small targets at 150 and consistent just not on the right target and was working towards fixing that.

The 7mm ... well by time I had missy set up and the 30-06 sighted in for her I got 50 .223 rounds in and was having a blast Got a few shots with the 7mm which felt EXCELLENT. RAW POWER and I'm sure that long dead tree was barely containing the rockets in it's 3' of girth but wow

Tomorrow, I'll set up at 25 yds and put 3 in to benchmark it.

The AR, this is exactly why I ordered a rear flip up sight for it. if something happens to the scope I want an iron sight fail over. soon that, a foregrip, a light will be here to make life better. also got a $8 boresight for the .223 since that will have the most optics changes. Need to pull that goofy rubber thing off the mag before we shot again so it doesn't tip over off the bipod into a soft case and fall off.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2010, 06:41 PM
 
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Also the Nikon M-223 destructions note that it is advisable to use the Nikon M223 mount with this scope as it has 20moa already built into it aiding in allowing the rifle and scope to shot farther, also would esplain why I was adding inches to get it up from zero closer to the bullseye..

Ponch, does that mean I need to sell my Armalite EX0027 scope mount or trade it for a M223? Online the Armalite one costs more. Anyone want to trade?

oh and missy also resonates how FUN the AR is to shoot! Thank you Tony!

she had the 30-06 jump and hammer her shoulder pretty good and she was done till I told her the AR kicks like a .22.

with the 30-06, shes a great shot 90% of the time. her first deer was at 250 yds with one and dropped on the first shot. She's welcome to use whatever is comfy for her. If she doesn't pick the AR, I'm going to lay out a sleeping bag and set up a blind on a big hill overlooking a harvested field, a marsh, a pond and a pasture and use the AR for short to medium stuff and the 7 mag for the long shots.

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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2010, 06:55 PM
 
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Nope, you get a wealth of knowledge.
yeah it's an addictive hobby, I'm rediscovering from childhood.

I've been hunting and shooting since I was 6 and I've only been shot once when I was 12.

Though I've only had a dozen guns in my lifetime, I find it very stress relieving to go out and enjoy nature while hunting and just siting in a stand or in a blind all day or target shooting and punching holes in paper would and steel. Or bird hunting in WI for ducks n geese, SD for pheasants, or CA for doves.

Clay pigeons are a riot too.

I'd say it's at least on par with riding where I'm at now and when all my kids are able to shoot they shouldn't need to buy rifles at the rate I'm going.
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-07-2010, 07:26 PM
 
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I'm a lil bit country.



I love this song! I love racing. I don't love nascar.
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 04:00 PM
 
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Left the 7mm home and just took the AR out over lunch with a 130 rounds.

They're all gone now

Tony, I don't know how you could only shout 40 rounds through this gun while you owned it b/c it's a BLAST to shoot. I have it dialed in out to a hundred yards, yeah, I was prolly playing with it a bit to go through that much ammo, but I had fun.
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-21-2011, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ofc. Ponch View Post
My advice would be a mildot reticle as it is universaly accepted. The only problem with that is that in a budget minded scope you will end up with a Mildot reticle which is metric system based and your windage and elevation adjustment will be in MOA which is english based. This isnt that big a deal and if you learn MIL/MOA from the beginning your fine.

The Super Sniper line is a good starting point, or if you have extra $ Leupold MK IV.

Otherwise Bushnell and might be worth a try in the sub $300 range.

The super sniper though is hard to beat as it has tons of windage and elevation travel.
I read some good reviews on Mueller and Nitrex, but they aren't mil/mil.
It is pretty hard to find a mil dot reticle with mil turrets.

I found the bushnell: https://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduc...tnumber=950843

And the Weaver tactical grand slam: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=598484

Any experience with either? The weaver is variable up to 10x, the bush is fixed 10x. Is 10x good out to 600 should I work up to it?

Any other mil/mil scopes in the sub $500 range?
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