The most important question is out to what distance are you planning on shooting regularly? Then make a cheat sheet for other distances.....
I like to zero for 50 yards with my 308, as you are +/- 3" out to 200 yards. I don't take many 200+ yard shots deer hunting (in NE mind you). This allows me to never change my scope from zero and still be right on.
Now you gonna go do antelope or something where a 400yd shot isn't unheard of out in Wyoming... well you just either adjust (clicking the knobs), or calculate and change your zero ahead of time.
also something to think about with the mil dots, most ballistic calc will give you drop in inches (what i list below) and drop in MIL, which make for easy adjust on the fly. a drop of 2 MIL, means put the second dot down on the reticle on the target and you are on target..... Just a thought.
50 yard zero with Sierra 165gr, Gameking.... (my centerline scope height is 1.5")
0 -1.5
25 -0.6
50 0.0
75 0.3
100 0.3
125 -0.1
150 -0.7
175 -1.8
200 -3.2
225 -5.0
250 -7.2
Same set up but a 100 yard zero... I don't see the benefit of the 100 yard zero ( now i do zero at 50, then shoot at 100 or 200 to check it...LOL).
0 -1.5
25 -0.7
50 -0.1
75 0.1
100 -0.0
125 -0.4
150 -1.2
175 -2.3
200 -3.8
225 -5.6
EDIT: I've also seen people suggest a 36yard zero or some weird thing (as a "battle zero), and when you run the numbers it seems optimal but find a range with 36yards marked off.... you can do it yourself, but most ranges don't allow that or have mobile target.
Most importantly is get it zeroed, and then know how to adjust for other distances by MIL or by clicking your scope knobs, and learn to estimate distances. Once you are zeroed you can get to whatever distance you want by math, hold over or clickys.