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I think I may just drain it to be safe.... All I need to refill is another bottle of water wetter and distilled water right?

Dumb?
This sounds easy enough, but I've never done it on this bike. Anything I should know?
 
Just drain your fluids and yes when you replace replace with water/ water wetter. but make sure you check where your radiator cap is just so you have all the tools you will need to fill it. on my gsxr you have to undo the body so you can remove the ram air tube to get to the radiator cap. just some important info!
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
its a breeze Kruz just remember to "Burp" your lines afterwards.

Steve, the only reason I have the water wetter/ watter in there is exactly what you said. Not reequired but would help IF I ever went down.

I'm thinking I will take my chances and leave it alone.
 
Kruz said:
I think I may just drain it to be safe.... All I need to refill is another bottle of water wetter and distilled water right?

Dumb?
This sounds easy enough, but I've never done it on this bike. Anything I should know?
Like Jim said, you have ot remove the ram air duct to get to the radiator cap. The drain for the engine block is on the left side and so is the water pump. You remove the bottom bolt from the water pump housing. IF you want ot be really thurough, you should remove on of the hoses that goes to the thermostat and flush that out, otherwise you have ot run to biek up to 180 degrees wiht water in it ot get the thermostat to open up, then flush it again. That is why they recommend 2 flushes when switching from glycol to water wetter.

seriously, sav eyourself the trouble and buy a cheap electric blanket or run the bike for 5-10 minutes before you go to bed.
 
When I raced with WERA , the first race was always down at INDY ( IRP ) in april ( very cold ) we would always book a room at Motel 6 ground floor only! when it got dark out, unload the bikes and bring them in the room:thumbsup , worked great ! just some ideas !!! :D
 
Am I missing somthing here?

I'm sorry but I have to say somthing here about the windchill factor, freezing and the hair dryer/heat gun deal.

First, windchill only effects items that are over air temperature. Once they reach air temp say 35 degrees Farenheit then that is all the coolder they will get. It can blow 100mph across an item but once it has reached air temp that is it...unless the wind is from a compressed volume. In that case it would cool it down significantly.

As far as thinking of using a hair dryer or heat gun I just plain don't get it. I have never raced with a streetbike yet but I can't imagine there being some kind of rule that says one can't run their motorcycle within 24 hours prior to a race. I am sure you guys carry fuel, gasoline, with you for racing so as to keep just the amount one desires for running the track. So, why not just start it up or does your bike maintain air temperature when compressing and burning fuel? Gasoline has great potential energy as we all know so hit the starter if ya don't want to have an empty coolant system for a night and leave your Lady's hair dryer where she needs it.

Aaron
 
Re: Am I missing somthing here?

Vaughnimo said:
I'm sorry but I have to say somthing here about the windchill factor, freezing and the hair dryer/heat gun deal.
Good point. For all who don;t know. I have ot explain this ot my mom all the time. A short science lesson.

Temperature is a measurement of kinetic energy present in the molecules of a object. In he case of air, it is N2, CO2, and O2 moleules moving around and vibrating.

Windchill is a calculated value taking the velocity of the air and factoring in the thermal conductiviy of air. You end up wiht a heat transfer rate displayed in simple terms that the average person can understand.

Moving air will cool off your engine quicker, but not make it colder once it reaches equilibrium with the outside air.

Thee is no need for a heat gun, becasue if the water has frozen enough to damage the water pump when you start the engine, the engine cases have probably already cracked.
 
ddub said:
When I raced with WERA , the first race was always down at INDY ( IRP ) in april ( very cold ) we would always book a room at Motel 6 ground floor only! when it got dark out, unload the bikes and bring them in the room:thumbsup , worked great ! just some ideas !!! :D
Is like sneaking beer in when you were 16? Just the Adult version?
 
okay, okay, I've already been corrected a couple of time now!!:twofinger :twofinger :twofinger
:D :D :D

I still say that if it even gets near freezing you should drain the water and be safe. Are you really going to trust the weatherman??? :laughing There was a wera racer down south that kept his bike in a trailer and he thought it never got down to freezing, but it must have because all of the freeze plugs in his head popped out. It doesn't make a difference to me what anybody decides to do with their own bike, just seems silly that for a few minutes of work people are willing to risk some costly repairs.

:eek:t
Did you ever get bodywork for your R6?? If not , check with 4&6, I think they have a set for sale that is already painted and in primo condition.
 
Well, we loaded the bike into the van on Sunday and it got down in the 20's last night. Bike slept with a big floodlight burning brightly and it maintained 35 degrees.

Fortunately, it will be warmer tonight. Can we go yet???
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
didn't do nothing cause it never got cold enough
 
No cracked blocks then. Good to hear.:cheers :D
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
na just a couple cracked pieces of plastic. :D
 
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