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selston

· Got my new Ride......
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Anyone have some advice (other than the obvious)

One of our water heaters is leaking.

It "looks like" one of the pipes that run into the top of the heater are leaking - but you can't see the leak. Then I realized that there is a little bit of water around each inlet on the top of the heater (so now I think something inside must be leaking & its just showing up on top near the pipe inlets).

Just curious if anyone has experience with this - can I break out the JB Weld and patch this up somehow !??
 
Drain it for a bit and see if it continues.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Nothing was coming out of the pressure relief value.

Nothing was spitting.

If its a (solder) weld - I can't find the right spot. I was hoping I would find a simple spot that just needs repair - but no luck so far

I have it turned off. But I can drain it part way & fire it back up again - but I think if you drain it too much, you can damage it as it heats back up !??
 
How old is it?
Copper or steel pipe for input and out put.
It most likely is dead or dying rapidly.

If it is older run your hot water and watch the heater as it cycles. to look for the leak.
 
as long as you've got the money for the tankless, but definitly the way to go.
Are they really better? What are the advantages. I may be replacing a heater at my parents house, although they my only be there for a limited time. +-5 years.
 
you dont really want the worry of a leaky water heater do you?
I wouldnt

at a grand or so for a tankless you better make sure you use a lot of water and will be in the house for a while to recoup your costs.

Bruce, Im guessing your P's use little hot water and it wouldnt be worth the expense.

Theyre slick though. I will have one next
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
A Regular water heater is about $300-500.
Tankless is about 1000+

It I had a space issue, I might do a tankless.
But I've got 2 water heaters hooked up in tandem - so I don't mind trouble-shooting one of them to see if I can fix it for a couple of bucks.

If there is no easy fix, then $400 for new WH and another $200-$300 for installation !?
 
You guys are shopping at the wrong place if you are looking at $1000+ for tankless water heaters. I recently purchased four Takagi Jr.'s for $350ish each and one Takagi TK1 for almost $600. The Jr.'s are good for about two to three simultaneous water device usage, the TK1 even more. The cat III stainless sealed venting is the hidden cost on tankless water heaters. A 15-20FT run can be $150-$200 depending on how many bends and where you get your vent pipe from.
These things kick ass. Electronic ignition (no pilot light), compact as hell, and very very quiet. We all know one thing, gas isn't getting any cheaper. Why heat 40+ gal of water all the time when you don't need to?
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
You guys are shopping at the wrong place if you are looking at $1000+ for tankless water heaters. I recently purchased four Takagi Jr.'s for $350ish each and one Takagi TK1 for almost $600.
The $1000 price was at home depot. Sometimes they list a price that includes installation - maybe I didn't look close enough.

?? Why you buying FOUR tankless water heaters !? Are you in construction, or are you installing multiple units in one house !?
 
Sometimes you need to link multiple tankless units to meet the demand. They are great for the right applications, but quite often the venting and gas supply requirements are tough to meet. So you end up spending quite a bit more on installation and having to wait much longer to begin saving money with it.

Back to the initial problem though. Does it look like the water is coming from one of the two pipes in the top right were it meets the tank? If so, you are looking at a new heater. Average life span is about 10 years. You can find the manufacture date on the label on the side of the tank.
Using JB Weld or a similar product will only buy you a small amount of time, but at any time now the tank could completely fail and you have a big mess on your hands then.
As far as draining the tank damaging things, the only risk you run in plugging up the boiler drain with sediment from the bottom of the tank and having to replace it. And if the tank is rotten it may not even be possible to replace the drain.
Start shopping new heaters.
If you have any other questions hit me up. I'm a plumber.
 
if you're paying someone, $200-$300, not including $50 here and there for things you "need". Sears charges $54 just for the overflow pipe :wtf: It will also only take about 30 minutes. If you can, do it yourself or find someone that will help and save yourself the $. not a tough job, just need to make sure the water/gas/venting you have is "up to code" before you start.
 
Sometimes a leak in the tank fills the liner of the heater and
the water will ooze out where the pipes go in.

Once leaking, you should replace asap, if the leak becomes bigger
it can flood your basement.


Tom
 
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